75HP Chrys Wet Plugs

blueskiiies

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1981 15ft3in trihull <br />w/1967 75HP Battery alternator with points in distributor (cowl shows magnapower 85 but nameplate shows 75773 ser.# 3642)<br /><br />My dad bought it used and I don’t know history except seven years ago when I ran it twice on the water. It ran good from what I remember but seemed to run out of fuel when trying to max rpm it from a hole shot. I believe I found float levels very low then but it was never ran it until about year ago. It also stalled sometimes when idling. Don’t know if it was fouling plugs or idle too low.<br /><br />About a year ago, on muffs it seemed to rev up fine but wouldn’t idle. Was fouling plugs and very rich smelling. Can’t remember if plugs were getting wet. Found bad (half gone) lower crank seal. Tore down, honed cylinders and replaced Pistons and Rings with new (std.size). <br /><br />Now, after assembling and testing on muffs and in water, I’m getting wet (fuel/oil) plugs after idling a few minutes. They also wet foul right away when cruising. Feels and sounds strong until misfiring starts to occur from plugs fouling. Plugs are wet before misfiring starts to occur after running briefly. It fouls the plugs sooner off idle than letting sit at idle.<br /><br />Rebuilt Tillotson carbs when I rebuilt the powerhead – looked very clean inside found nothing wrong except two jets were .072 and one was .064. Specs. say .066 for all three so that what I installed. Top carb is different than others in style of bowl vent and high-speed air bleed but same throat size (1.5”, 1 3/16 venturi ID). It also has a casting clock with 71 for the year 1971. I’m guessing the original 85 HP got blown up and the powerhead was replaced with the 1967. It must have needed a carb at some point and someone put on the 1971. Maybe someone also changed the jetting to compensate for seal going bad?<br /><br />I checked each carb very carefully for clear passages (idle air bleed, idle ports, idle passage, idle pick up tube, nozzle, high-speed air bleeds, main jet).<br />Checked inlet passages for leakage into other parts of carb by pressurizing.<br />Looked for cracks or porosity in casting.<br />Made clear fuel bowl to see level of fuel in bowl. Get high but shuts off. Not sure where level should be.<br />Set float levels to .420”using dial calipers (spec is 13/32 +/- 1/64 or .406 +/- .015).<br />Made sure good sealing between bottom of main well stem (below main jet) and inside of bowl at screw<br />Idle mixture screws do adjust and best setting is at 1 7/8 turns.<br /><br />Compression is about 140 all three cylinders when slightly warm.<br />Reed valves all looked okay<br />Timing set at 28 deg. WOT spec is 32.<br />Primer bulb gets firm and doesn’t leak down with long squeeze. (I can feel when inlet needles shut of the fuel ).<br />No dripping inside of carb throats but throttle plates get wet off idle.<br />Fuel pump pressure tee’d in line. 3-5 sometimes goes to 7 psi.<br />Diaphram looks good.<br />Hoses from crankcase to fuel pump are dry inside.<br />Puddle drain reeds shut off properly.<br />New 89 octane fuel at 40:1 mix for break in. Began with 25:1.<br />Points set at .014”.<br />Changed condenser to one from GM car (ran same). Changed it back as wrong condensor can pit points prematurely. Cap and rotor look fine.<br />New Plugs BUHW - manual calls for L20V or BUH. W is just for tungsten. L20V and BUHW have annular gap of .050” Plugs that came out were L77JC4’s.<br />Plug wires ohm out fine and get a 7/16” spark gap.<br /><br />I tried setting the float levels 1/8’ lower than spec but only the idle RPM went higher and still fouling the plugs.<br /><br />Plugged exhaust? When I had everything apart, I can’t imagine missing that. They way I remember things are designed there isn’t much constriction anywhere for carbon to close up. I don’t think it would have the power it does either.<br /><br />My conclusion is that I still have the same problem there was before my dad got the boat. The previous mechanics must have richened it up to get it to run as good as it could to compensate for worn rings and seals. Then things got so bad it wouldn’t idle. Now, since compression and crankcase seal are better, it can’t tolerate the extra richness as much. I am thinking I need to downsize the jets. I struggle with this as I know they are the size they call for. But I’m thinking, maybe they aren’t the right carbs. Maybe they are bigger CFM’s (from the original 85) and even the standard 75HP jets (.066) are too big. But didn’t they make 85HP’s by bigger carbs with bigger .072 jets and bigger reed plate assy’s. I’m confused.<br /><br />I’ve tinkered with all kinds of engines. Cars, motorcycles, chain saws, powerwashers, weed whackers. This is my first outboard. This old one seems pretty simple. Really not that much to it. Can’t believe its settings are that sensitive. Something is fundamentally wrong to wet the plugs. I believe I’ve ruled out ignition or the fuel pump, so there is only one way extra fuel is getting in there; through main the jets.<br /><br />Maybe I’ll try a set of L77JC4’s that I can make a smaller gap (.030) to help rule out completely a weak ignition problem.<br /><br />Any ideas guys? Would like to know proper carb bore size of a 75 HP. Top carb is WB9B 316061-1 with ’71 embossed on side. Middle and bottom are WB1B no other number.<br /><br />Thanks,<br />Mark
 

12Footer

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Re: 75HP Chrys Wet Plugs

Welcome to iboats, Mark. This is the kind of post I like to see....Everything is there. That's rare. And from what I've read, it leads to carbon fouling. <br />Are you still running heavy oil, or have you dropped to 50:1 yet? If not, do so, after a thorough decarbon. decarbon process <br />These motors required frequent decarb treatments (every 40-70hours under normal conditions, more frquently, if mainly idle or trolling)..<br />Your conclusion of clogged exaust ,or exaust ports is of course, of valid concern. It can be related to carbon buildup witihin a short operating time,especially durring break-in.
 

blueskiiies

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May 7, 2004
Messages
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Re: 75HP Chrys Wet Plugs

Thanks for your reply 12 footer. I have only run about 10 gallons through it since it fouls the plugs so fast and I have to keep cleaning them.<br /><br />Can someone confirm what plug it should take. My manual calls for L20V for all three cylinder engines but mine is a battery points system without CD. I don't know of any gaps bigger than .035" in cars with this type set up.
 

scotiany

Senior Chief Petty Officer
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Aug 3, 2002
Messages
749
Re: 75HP Chrys Wet Plugs

Just a thought. Did you remove and clean the puddle valve. It's located under the T part of the throttle linkage just below the interlock switch. Held on by 2 bolts and 2 countersunk screws. Inside you'll find 2 tiny reed valves and their screens. If they're clogged, you'll have nothing but trouble like you describe. They are sort of like an early PCV valve. With the 3 cylinder, you probably have 3 valves in there. If you decide to check it out, be careful of the gaskets-they're hard to find replacements. On my 1970 55hp, they came off fairly easily though.
 

blueskiiies

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May 7, 2004
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Re: 75HP Chrys Wet Plugs

Thanks Scotiany. Yes, I checked them. Actually, I just check them for the second time. There are three reeds on mine and I checked to make sure each sealed in one direction and clear in the other.<br /><br />What plugs does yours take? Does it have CD or strictly points?
 

scotiany

Senior Chief Petty Officer
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Aug 3, 2002
Messages
749
Re: 75HP Chrys Wet Plugs

Mine uses the Champion L4J. Can't get them anymore but there is a replacement. It's the Champion L82C. NGK also makes plugs for the Chryslers. Mine is magneto equipped with 2 sets of points. There was a post here about getting the points at Autozone. I haven't tried yet as I got a new set from boatingsolutions.com. If you decide to go to Autozone, bring a set along for comparison. BTW. on mine there is a check valve in one of the drain hoses from the puddle valve. It was before the hoses T. Found it by accident last year.
 

blueskiiies

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Re: 75HP Chrys Wet Plugs

Thanks Scotiany. <br /><br />My puddle drain does not have any hoses going to it. I guess they plumb it internally.<br /><br />Mine is battery points and I still think the annular gap of .050" the L20V has is too much. What gap do you use? <br /><br />I looked at a Champion catalogue and it gave different plugs for different year 75HP. For mine it gave a J12C. The closest they had was a J6C. A year or two later, they use the L82C's. L82C's appear similar but a further reach. I got 3 of them also as well as L77JC4. When I got home I verified the longer reach still has plenty of piston to electrode clearance. I wonder if flame travel is adversely affected. It definitely runs better with the L82C's. In fact, it will run and idle on muffs without stalling due to fouling. They are still a little wet but are dark brown. I think I can get some decent in water hours on the engine now. Still seems to miss a little at idle and off idle. Is this normal for these engines? Maybe its nothing more than blow out the built up carbon and fine tune plug heat range.
 

blueskiiies

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Re: 75HP Chrys Wet Plugs

I tried all three sets of plugs. Seem to run good. From idling I am getting light tan. Cruise I get only a hint of tan. Didn't want to run it too long. I beieve the carbs must be from the original 85 HP and so I will install .072" jets.<br />I guess the L20V's called out by Clymer's are incorrect.
 

eric1

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Feb 29, 2004
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Re: 75HP Chrys Wet Plugs

Hi 4chrys,<br /> just an idea here, i switched my 76 chrys 105 to surface gap plugs(no electrode) and that cured all my plug fowling problems, but my outboard has electronic ignition. As to your question about the miss at idle and above i have played with entire ignition system and fuel system for five years and it still misses. I have begrudgingly excepted it, i hope you have better luck.
 

blueskiiies

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Re: 75HP Chrys Wet Plugs

Thanks Eric. I checked the site but no luck. It’s a moot point now anyway. I’m confident they are 85HP carbs. Yesterday I tried .072 jets (which the 85 HP calls for) and it runs much better on muffs. Especially at 2000 RPM’s where it seems like there is no or little miss. I have to sea trial in order to tell for sure about any minor missing.<br /><br />I read in the Champion Marine catalogue that surface gap plugs can be more problematic to fouling deposits. My fouling problem was that the gap was too big for my points. I can’t find a surface gap with less than .050” gap.<br /><br />What conventional plugs did you use? I know if you’re supposed to use a QL82C, you can't use L82C because the Q stands for suppressor. Non-suppression plugs can cause interference (EMI) to CD ignition systems. Maybe this is your miss but this is just a thought. <br /><br /> http://www.championsparkplugs.com/more_info.asp?AAIA=&pid=4438 <br /><br />It has a great plug lookup for all types of applications including old marine. Also has a cross-reference. I don’t think the site is done by Champion but it seems they took the description and tech. info. right from Champion catalogues.
 

eric1

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Feb 29, 2004
Messages
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Re: 75HP Chrys Wet Plugs

4chrys,<br /> I have a seloc marine manual for chrysler outboards 1962-1984 all models and it calls for champion J4J plugs for your application,so I went to the web site you posted and cross ref. it and it came out with J4C, check it out, and actually there is no mention of resitor or supression plugs in my manual and it does call for a suface gap plug for alot of chrysler appl, go figure???<br /><br /><br />well good luck on your sea trial, keep us posted
 

blueskiiies

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May 7, 2004
Messages
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Re: 75HP Chrys Wet Plugs

Thanks Eric, the J4C's are the same as J12C's except for heat range and would at least work; unlike the L20V's. The higher the number, the hotter the plug and for some reason Champion skipped 9 and 10, so 8 and 12 aren't really only two heat range units different. J4C to J12C still seems like a big jump, though. The J6C's which I tested at home seem ok. I bet heat range doesn't make much difference except for plug life with a lot of idling. Seems these engines at low rpm's tend to be rich and so a hotter plug may be in order for the long run. I believe that is fine tune and longevity stuff. Eventually, we'll see who is right, Champion or Seloc.<br /><br />I checked out your application on the site and it calls for the L82C, not QL82C's. Maybe only certain CD's that need the Q? They do say to gap the L82C's at .040". Are yours .050" surface gaps? If so, maybe that's your miss??? But I guess that could cause a fouling problem again. Maybe there was something else wrong and you fixed it at the same time you changed to the surface gaps. Hate to see yours not purr! You could try some L82C's. If a gap of .040" doesn't make miss disappear, see if .030" does.
 
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