Spark plugs needed for a 1989 Force 125?

[Chris_NJ]

I think I fouled the plugs. What plugs are recommended for my 1989 Force 125 and while we are at it a gap would be helpful?<br /><br />As always thanks a bunch.

 

[eurolarva]

Re: Spark plugs needed for a 1989 Force 125?

Champion UL18V

 

[punkyBOATER]

Re: Spark plugs needed for a 1989 Force 125?

HUMMMMMMMMMMMMM, i have an 85 force 125 and i use a Champion UL77V, these plugs do not need to be gapped for they dont have the hooked shaped thing on the end. First time i ever saw plugs like that but they work. Im sure Eurolarva has the right plug number after all he is the master =). I know they are kind of far from you but theres a place in Reseda, Ca called "The Anchor" (818)343-1921. They specialize in outboard motors. Im sure they can tell you what plugs you will need and prob even ship them to u. Ask for Hime hes cool and super knowlegable. Your also gonna need the model number off your engine. Its usually located on a stamped plate under the cover at the base on the rear side of the motor. Sometimes they need the serial as well. Good luck. I hope its okay to plug business's on here, i should prob read the guidelines, if its not i apologize.

 

[Spidybot]

Re: Spark plugs needed for a 1989 Force 125?

The plugs without side electrode were first used (I think) by Mercury under the trademark "Permagap". It came on models with a modified ingition system. Can't say if it'll work on your specific model as things may have changed between production batches even on identical models.<br /><br />eurolarvas advice is good.<br /><br />For reference see http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/ <br />or try www.mercurypartsexpress.com

 

[blueskiiies]

Re: Spark plugs needed for a 1989 Force 125?

If they are fouled, you can clean them. Its worthwhile, if electrode is not worn and rounded.<br /><br />The site below shows UL18V as your plug.<br /><br /> http://www.championsparkplugs.com/results_appOther.asp?otherMotiveID=12338&mfid=2 <br /><br />However UL18V and UL77V are basically the same and will work equally well. They have the same thread size, reach, are auxilary gaps and surface gaps. They also have the same heat range as you can see from the document below.<br /><br /> http://www.federal-mogul.com/fmeconnect/technicalservices/downloads/1521.pdf <br /><br /><br />If you look up champion's numbering system here,<br /><br /> http://www.spark-plugs.co.uk/pages/technical/champion_symbol_code.htm <br /><br />You will find the 77's are considered industrial. where as the 18's come under auto and small engines. My guess is the 77's are somehow more heavy duty. Some johnsons and Evinrudes call out the 77's.<br /><br />It's interesting to note the "U" stands for auxillary gap. The excerpt below explains it. Its from http://www.strappe.com/plugs.html <br /><br />[A final variation on the basic spark plug theme you should know about is something NGK calls a "booster gap," and is known at Champion as an "auxiliary gap." By any name it's an air gap built into a plug's core, and it improves resistance to fouling. Conductor deposits on a plug's insulator nose tend to bleed off the spark coil's electrical potential as it is trying to build itself up to spark-level strength. If so much energy is shunted in this way that firing does not occur we say the plug is "fouled." It is possible to clear a lightly fouled plug by holding the spark lead slightly away from the plug terminal and forcing the spark to jump across an air gap. The air gap works like a switch, keeping plug and coil disconnected until the ignition system's output voltage rises high enough and is backed by enough energy to fire the plug even though some of the zap is shunted by the fouling deposits. Mechanics discovered this trick; plug makers have incorporated it into some of the plugs they sell, and booster/auxiliary gap plugs work really well in bikes with an ignition system strong enough to cope with the added resistance. Such plugs more or less mimic the fast-voltage-rise characteristics of CDI systems - and offer no advantage used in conjunction with a capacitor-discharge ignition.]