1968 55hp triumph

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kentaysdad

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hello I have been fighting this thing for a while st full throtle the carbs load up to the point that it is dripping out of the front, i have changed the carbs and rebuilt the ones that r on now just don't know where to turn next. would be greatfull for any help thank you
 

SpinnerBait_Nut

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Re: 1968 55hp triumph

Welcome to iboats.
This forum is for website issues only.
I will move this to the "other outboard" forum for answers.
 

kentaysdad

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Re: 1968 55hp triumph

SBN said:
Welcome to iboats.
This forum is for website issues only.
I will move this to the "other outboard" forum for answers.

thank you my first time here sorry
 

JB

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Re: 1968 55hp triumph

Your "Triumph" is an Evinrude, Dad.

I am going to move this to Evinrude troubles, where i expect you to give us a model number so we can make appropriate suggestions.
 

OBJ

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Re: 1968 55hp triumph

Are all the carbs dripping out or just one of them?

Did you set the float level with the float bowl gasket surface?

With the front carb cover off, does it seem like the carbs are spitting out at idle?

If the carbs are "puffing" out when the engine is running, that would indicate reed damage.

Are you sure that when you rebuilt the carbs and set the floats, were they level with the float bowl gasket surface. If set to high, it would cause flooding.

Are the low speed needles set correctly? Check the FAQ forum for a post by Joe Reeves on setting the needles.
 

JB

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Re: 1968 55hp triumph

Your engine is a 1968 55hp Evinrude "Triumph", Dad. I guess you knew that, but helpers need all the info we can get..

Good luck. :)
 

kentaysdad

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Re: 1968 55hp triumph

hello thanks for the info when I set the floats they were level with the carbs and when held upside down there was 3/4" gap is this correct. as for the needles I ran them is untill lightly seated and then backed them out 1 1/2 turn. (question) does the type of gas tank make a difference? motor came with the old metal one but i replaced it with a 6gal plastic when i changed the feul line. also yes the fuel is flowing out of all three carbs. i also removed the reed valve assembly and checked them according to the manual and then replaced it usuing all knew gaskets.
 

tashasdaddy

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Re: 1968 55hp triumph

the faq forum is down email me and ask for carb setting. did you check you link and sinc, after doing the carbs. this sets the carbs and the engine timing together so they advance at the proper time.

tashasdaddy@comcast.net.
 

Joe Reeves

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Re: 1968 55hp triumph

Just in case you can't find the FAQ section as mentioned above......

(Carburetor Float Setting)
(J. Reeves)

With the carburetor body held upside down, the float being viewed from the side, adjust the float so that the free end of the float (the end opposite the hinge pin) is ever so slightly higher (just ever so slightly off level) than the other end. And when viewed from the end, make sure it is not cocked.

Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve.
(J. Reeves)

Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

On your engine, 1968 55hp model), start the adjustments with the center carb, then the bottom, then finally the top carb.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

Note: As a final double check setting of the slow speed valve(s), if the engine has more than one carburetor, do not attempt to gradually adjust all of the valves/carburetors at the same time. Do one at a time until you hit the above response (die out or spit back), then go on to the next valve/carburetor. It may be necessary to back out "all" of the slow speed adjustable needle valves 1/8 turn before doing this final adjustment due to the fact that one of the valves might be initially set ever so slightly lean.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.
 

kentaysdad

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Re: 1968 55hp triumph

thanks for the carb settings. need to know if there should be excessive vibration when this motor is running it sure shakes alot also I am getting spark to the bottom cylinder but when i pull off the plug wire while running it has every little affect if any
 

JB

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Re: 1968 55hp triumph

Could be an unsuccessful cleaning of the bottom carb, Dad. Also possible leakage of crankcase compression through a leaky reed or a bad gasket on the bypass cover.
 

OBJ

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Re: 1968 55hp triumph

Don't think there were bypass covers on these engines. They were the original loopers I believe.

It really sounds like the floats are not set right to me Dad. Once the float and needle are installed, you flip the carb body unside down....bowl gasket surface facing up. Then you eyeball the float for level, bending the floats metal arm to get it right.

Is this how you set them?
 

kentaysdad

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Re: 1968 55hp triumph

yes sir sure is, and in the manual that i have it says to then turn rightside up and let the float hang and you ahould have 3/4" between the float and the bowl sound right ? also i shanged over to a plastic gas tank could that be the problem
 

tashasdaddy

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Re: 1968 55hp triumph

if you didn't check for small shavings in the new tank. they may have gotten to the carb or fuel pump.
 

OBJ

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Re: 1968 55hp triumph

Dad....take a look at the choke plates. Make sure they have opened after the engine starts. They should set flat in the carb after the solenoid is released.

In my previous post I asked about the carbs puffing out at idle. Have you checked or noticed this?
 

kentaysdad

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Re: 1968 55hp triumph

choke plates are setting flat, dont know what you mean by puffing out?
 

kentaysdad

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Re: 1968 55hp triumph

i am starting to be convinced that i have a vac leak; after 2 rebuilds on these carbs and another whole set of carbs with rebuilds. I have 2 more questions for u guys 1) is the block and the crankcase cover a matchset or can i use a different cover, the front statrer bolt was broke when i bought the motor but have another cover. 2) what type of sealant should you use between the cover and block checked on a gasket but its not available. thank you. jon
 

OBJ

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Re: 1968 55hp triumph

Dad....the crankcase halves are a matched set. You cannot sub another. The intake manifold, which holds the reeds can be replaced. I do not think you are dealing with a vaccum leak.

When the engine is running, put the palm of your hand in front of the carbs and see if you can feel the carbs blowing out. If they are, you have reed damage or they are not set square on the reed cage ports.
 
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