Transom question and floor wedges

[aries8888]

Boat is a 1973 Sea Ray I/O

replacing the transom, stringers, floor, etc.

I have read a lot about this process on this forum and other places and I am now somewhat confused about the proper method of attaching the transom wood to the hull.

Any help would be appreciated.

After I finish sealing and encapsulating the transom wood with thin epoxy resin, mat, etc. what type of epoxy is best suited for bonding the encapsulated transom to the fiberglass stern. Not sure if I should use a thicker epoxy or stick with the thin epoxy resin. I would think I should coat the transom with a thicker epoxy, set transom in place and clamp.

Fill any gaps around the edges and then tab it to the hull with thin epoxy resin.

On a related subject...is there any benefit to drilling the transom bolt holes a little oversize and epoxying in a section of PVC pipe in each of the bolt holes for the bolts to go through.

Also, I was hoping someone could tell me the purpose of the long wedges on each side of the hull at the deck and if they have to be replaced.

I do not have pictures of what I am speaking of as I have already removed them due to wood rot. The wedges are trianglar in nature with the tip of the wedge starting about 3 feet back from the bow and extending down the hull for about 6 feet. They are narrow at the top and about increasing to about 5" at the rear. The wedges were made by glassing in a horizontal piece of wood to the side of the hull and a vertical piece to the deck. Both had foam inside.

Again, thank you for your time.

 

[epresutti]

Re: Transom question and floor wedges

aries8888,

I used laminating epoxy to connect the stringers to the floor.

Here is my project should give you a good idea of how I attached things.

http://www.granvilletech.com/Default.aspx?tabid=53

Peace.

Ed.

 

[sdunt]

Re: Transom question and floor wedges

your idea of isolating bolt holes is very valid. I have used thin wall brass tubing from the hobby store:

Where many transoms fail is all of the bolt and screw holes in them that allow water in and past any epoxy seal.. One Idea I picked up is to use tubing to seal the holes. My appologies to the original poster that I copied this off of:
"go to good ACE/TRUE VALUE hardware or hobby shop that sells K & S tubing..

buy a piece of tubing with an ID size that is two to three sizes bigger than your bolts.. but is still a common drill bit size on the OD..

bore holes thru the transom and install the tube all the way thru the transom, coat the outside of the tube with epoxy before you install the tube, you want to cement it in place and seal it and the wood you just punched a hole in.

As you install the bolts, shoot caulk/silcone in the tube in between the bolt and the tube to water seal 'the hole in the boat'

the tube isolates/seals/protects from water infusion and isolates it from EVER soakin' into the side walls of your new transom. Kind of like making a drain plug hole but for the motor mounts or any other holes in the transom."

No Clue on the wedges.

as for attaching the transom. You want something on the inside of that old fiberglass that is going to hold your resin in place and all for the inconsistencies in thickness, etc.

I used Poly resin and put several layers of cloth and matting in first, I had maybe 1/16 to 3/32 of wet cloth and mat inplace before I clamped the wood transom in place. Also, here's an idea for how to get additional clamps in place:

Transom Clamping Idea

 

[aries8888]

Re: Transom question and floor wedges

Thank both of you for your replies and the helpful links.
I had not thought of using brass tubing, guess I was too focused on the pvc. Otherwise the plan laid out was pretty much what I had in mind except that I plan to make the tubing holes in the core slightly oversize because I plan to thin epoxy seal the core and all holes first. The oversize hole will allow the tube to fit after the wall of the hole is coated with epoxy.

I will use the method you described to attach the core to the stern.
The stern was easy to clean up as the original core had never been glued to the stern. This was not a case of delamination. The core was never laminated or sealed. There was enough good wood remaining in the core to see that it had never had resin applied except for the front which had been glassed over. They also installed the deck prior to glassing over the bare wood because the core (bare wood) was exposed on both sides under the deck . In addition, the doubler used at the transom mounting plate was stapled (8 staples) to the core not glued. They also installed the deck prior to glassing over the core because the core was exposed under the deck.

I have the clamping method worked out using the existing holes in the transom.

I had already spotted the granvilletech link and previously bookmarked it to use as an example of what to do. IMHO a very nice restoration job.

I have three theories regarding the wedges joining the deck and hull.
1. Sea Ray needed another place for wood rot to occur.
2. Additional sidewall support between the deck and hull.
3. They test sunk the boat during design and found they needed additional floatation to float safely.

again thank you for your time and responses.

 

[Bondo]

Re: Transom question and floor wedges

I have three theories regarding the wedges joining the deck and hull.
1. Sea Ray needed another place for wood rot to occur.
2. Additional sidewall support between the deck and hull.
3. They test sunk the boat during design and found they needed additional floatation to float safely.

again thank you for your time and responses.

From your description,.........
The Wedges Sound like they are in fact Stringers..........

That being said,...........

Ayuh,....... You'll be Needing Them back in the hull..............