Bond-O (or any kind person) about choke adjustments....

[kimchee]

Dear Bond-O (or any kind person),

Okay, at the recommendation of Bond-O I have just completed approximately 2 hours of reading on this forum on the topic of choke adjustments...

Basically, to restate my problem, I have a hard time starting when hot on the water... Originally, I thought it was the carb(but I had it recently rebuilt), and still having the same problem... So, the last time I went out on the water, I removed my flame arrestor, and noticed it was a little easier to start, so I thought it was the flame arrestor all clogged up... However, Bond-O suggests that it is the choke that needs to be adjusted...

After reading about choke adjustments, I learned that my choke is "suppose to be fully open" when hot... Which it is not... Are you suggesting that I adjust it to the most fully open position when I goto try and restart the next time I am on the water? Or do I:
a) hold open the choke with a stick prior to starting all the time?
b) switch to a electric choke?
c) check the ignition coil?
d) junk the damn thing, cuz it is starting to annoy the hell out of me !!! ARH !!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks Everyone,

*** I AM LEARNING SO MUCH !!! ***
YET IT SEEMS LIKE THERE IS STILL SO MUCH MORE TO LEARN !!!:|

 

[searay3]

Re: Bond-O (or any kind person) about choke adjustments....

The choke adjustment is the big black plastic looking disc on the side of the carb with three screws holding it in an aluminum housing. Inside the housing behind the adjustment is a bi-metal spring that opens (relaxes) as it heats. There are increments marked on that housing showing rich to lean. When cold, you push the throttle forward to allow the choke to set. It should snap completely closed. Once the engine fires, vacuum pulls that choke butterfly, against the spring, to about 1/8th of an inch opening. As the motor reaches operating temp, the spring relaxes and the choke should be open completely. If it is still partially closed at operating temp, loosen the three screws around the black choke adjustment and move the indicator towards the lean side. Normally the adjustment is just one or two increments to either the rich or lean side. Again, you need to go more lean if it is NOT fully open at operating temp.

 

[Don S]

Re: Bond-O (or any kind person) about choke adjustments....

What are you trying to adjust the choke on?

 

[kimchee]

Re: Bond-O (or any kind person) about choke adjustments....

Don,

It seems I am in over my head with responding to your question. So let me first take a look at what searay3 said first and get back to you... Thanks for looking at my thread...

But from what searay2 and Bond-O have been saying... it seems that my choke is adjusted too rich... So I will adjust it slightly onto the leaner side incrementally until I get a response from my boat...

When I start while hot on the water, after a couple of tries and at WOT, I get a burp of exhaust (sorta like a very small explosion). Then it clears out and runs nicely... Originally, I thought my carb was dripping fuel into the barrels after I shut down... This caused me to have my carb rebuilt, yet I am still having the same problem.... Thanks anyways...

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Bond-O (or any kind person) about choke adjustments....

OK -- I'll take a stab at it. NEVER adjust the choke on a warm engine! Do it on a stone cold engine as that's what the adjustment you are performing is compensating for. Open the throttle a little to set the choke. It does not matter at this point if its open or closed. Loosen the three screws on the choke disc and rotate the disc and rotate it so the choke opens. Then go back the other way until it just closes. Then go one notch additional. Tighten the screw and now you can make the check that was previously described. When the engine starts, if the choke does not pull open a little, the pull-off needs attention. If the choke does open a little from the pull off, but does not open the remainder of the way, the heater or bi-metal is bad. If this is a four-bbl Rochester you may very well have a porous casting or leaky float bowl. Was a common problem in boats and cars.

 

[Don S]

Re: Bond-O (or any kind person) about choke adjustments....

All I ask is what year, make, and model engine, and hopefully what carb you have in your boat.
You are going to have a hard time checking that "big black plastic looking disc on the side of the carb" that searay3 mentioned if you don't have one.
Yes, your choke may be adjusted to rich, or it may be broken. IF you have an external choke coil that just move the linkage, and the choke coil is dead, all the adjusting in the world isn't going to help.

 

[kimchee]

Re: Bond-O (or any kind person) about choke adjustments....

Silvertip,

would a porous casting or leaky float bowl be corrected by a carb rebuilding? Cuz, I just had mine rebuilt..

Thanks

 

[kimchee]

Re: Bond-O (or any kind person) about choke adjustments....

Don,

I have a 1996 MAXUM 2300SC with a WEBER 4bbl AFM carb. 5.7L mercruiser I/O 8cyl engine...

 

[Don S]

Re: Bond-O (or any kind person) about choke adjustments....

Then you already have electric choke. Now, pull both wires off the choke coil and measure the resistance between the 2 terminals on the choke coil.
Then turn the ignition switch to the run position and check the voltage between the 2 wires you disconnected from the choke coil.

 

[kimchee]

Re: Bond-O (or any kind person) about choke adjustments....

You must be laughing at the level of ignorance you are dealing with... Cuz, I would be.... I feel so stupid...

Anyways, I definitely will do what you said... But in an effort to save a little time... Once I get those readings, what do I do with them... (at the risk of sounding even more ignorant....)
:$ oopss...

 

[Don S]

Re: Bond-O (or any kind person) about choke adjustments....

Post your results. That is the only way I know of helping you find the problem.