bell housing removal

picker523

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 26, 2006
Messages
130
Got a 130hp mercruiser with water in the outdrive.
I got the outdrive off and discovered water in the driveshaft bellows. The u joints are a little rusty but don't seem to have any slack. How do you get the bell housing off to change the bellows? how do i get to the seal behind the ujoints..and do need to change it?... picker
 

Don S

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
Aug 31, 2004
Messages
62,321
Re: bell housing removal

It all depends on what year and what outdrive you have.

EDIT:
I see in your other post you have an 87. Here is the service manual for your outdrive.

http://www.boatfix.com/merc/Servmanl/6/6covr3.pdf

Section 4A will tell you how to change the bellows
Secion 3A will explain how to change the input shaft seal on the upper.
Section 2 will cover installing the drive and adjusting the shift cable. If it's over 5 years old, might as well replace it too while you're in there.
 

CaptRon66

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 10, 2006
Messages
132
Re: bell housing removal

Remove the screws which hold the trim sender on both sides. Underneath these you will find the hinge pins. Merc sells a tool for this that I use. Others have used an allen wrench. You may need to apply heat due to the red loctite used on the threads. A cheater car may help you too. After the pins are removed I like to cut the bellows away with a razor knife before loosening the hose clamps. I would get a whole transom seal kit while in there. It includes the gimbal bearing,water hose and exhaust tube. But that is up to you. You will need a 5/16 swivel socket and long extension to get the hose clamps back on. And take note what position the hose clamp screws are in. Because they have to go back the same way.
To get to the seal on the yoke(behind the u-joints) you will need a spanner wrench to turn the big castle nut. I did this seal once a ways back. It gets a little involved. You will need a manual.
 

CaptRon66

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Apr 10, 2006
Messages
132
Re: bell housing removal

Don is right . I assumed it was an Alpha.
 

picker523

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 26, 2006
Messages
130
Re: bell housing removal

CaptRon66 said:
Don is right . I assumed it was an Alpha.

Yes ...It's a alpha , do you guys think I need to change the seal behind the u joints?
 

Don S

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
Aug 31, 2004
Messages
62,321
Re: bell housing removal

What does "Think" have to do with it. You can see it and test it, we can't.
If the yoke going into the seal is rusty, yes it needs replaced. The rusty yoke acts like sand paper on the seal which causes a major leak. Then when you don't have gear lube in the upper, you have a junk outdrive in a short amount of time.
Even if it's not rusty, if oil was in the bellows, then oil got out of the drive, and it had to be through that seal.
Do a vacuum and pressure check and check the seal.
So what do you think?
 

picker523

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 26, 2006
Messages
130
Re: bell housing removal

There doesn't seem to be any slack in the u joint, and there was only water in the bellows that I could see. The ujoints themselves have developed a little rust on them but I'll check the yoke when I get home. I've ordered a seal kit and it comes with that seal so I'll replace it . I don't have a spanner wrench...is there any way to tap it loose with a hammer? Thanks for your help...picker
 

picker523

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 26, 2006
Messages
130
Re: bell housing removal

CaptRon66 said:
Remove the screws which hold the trim sender on both sides. Underneath these you will find the hinge pins. Merc sells a tool for this that I use. Others have used an allen wrench. You may need to apply heat due to the red loctite used on the threads. A cheater car may help you too. After the pins are removed I like to cut the bellows away with a razor knife before loosening the hose clamps. I would get a whole transom seal kit while in there. It includes the gimbal bearing,water hose and exhaust tube. But that is up to you. You will need a 5/16 swivel socket and long extension to get the hose clamps back on. And take note what position the hose clamp screws are in. Because they have to go back the same way.
To get to the seal on the yoke(behind the u-joints) you will need a spanner wrench to turn the big castle nut. I did this seal once a ways back. It gets a little involved. You will need a manual.

I used a 1/2 " allen wrench to undo the hinge pin bolts and it worked great.Why spend the money one the wrench you'll only use a couple of times ? Do I have to have a spanner wrench to undo the castle nut behind the u joint?
 

tommays

Admiral
Joined
Jul 4, 2004
Messages
6,768
Re: bell housing removal

The nut needs about 200# of torque there is a guide in the manual that will give you the correct setting based on the lenth of your torque wrench

So yes you need the tool to do the job correctly

You really need to sit down and study the manual as things like chageing the yoke require following the manual OR it will self destruct pretty fast :)


Tommays
 
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