1960 40 HP.

[CBCHIEF2]

Can anyone tell me if the lower unit gears are still available. Last set I got from the stealer was about 20 yrs ago and they told me they were obsolete and jacked the price $ 100.00 on me. I wondered if they are still avail. before I drive 70 miles to the dealer. Thanks Scott

 

[F_R]

Re: 1960 40 HP.

You ain't seen nothing yet. Not having a 1960 parts book, I just checked a 1961. 377174 forward gear is $302.94

 

[CBCHIEF2]

Re: 1960 40 HP.

Thanks, for nothing LOL. But wow I might have to think this one over. I don't think the boat and motor is hardly worth that price... But thanks for the info. Scott

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: 1960 40 HP.

Pick up a used lower unit off ebay. Usually much cheaper if you don't mind waiting till a deal comes by. I think you could use any 40hp l/u '60-'70. Internals changed but externals didn't.

Why are you blowing gears?

 

[CBCHIEF2]

Re: 1960 40 HP.

Thanks Paul, I not blowing the gears just wearing them out. I am not a real fan of the engagment set up but the main problem is my father used try to troll with this motor by throwing it in and out of gear. But in his defense this last set is my fault. I tore down the lower unit to replace the imp. and reseal it and I did'nt get the shift linkage lined up correct. Dad took it out after that and rounded the dog off. I think I might try to replace just the dog and see what happens. Other than that the motor runs great!! top cylinder is 133 lbs bottom is 130 for compression. Thanks Scott

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: 1960 40 HP.

If I were in your shoes I'd first have a look for a used later gearcase, 65 and up they used a ball detent arrangement in the propshaft to positively engage the dog.

But if your into more unusual and experimental fixes, there are a couple. I know one guy here tried welding and re-machining them. Worked for him so far. He put a slight bevel on them which makes shifting harder but ensures they lock well.

Alternatively, the forward and reverse gear are identical once you press the bearing out of the reverse gear. It won't fix the reverse gear but it might make things manageable.

 

[CBCHIEF2]

Re: 1960 40 HP.


Does anyone know if I am stucklooking for a 40hp L/U or are there other HP's that will work. THANKS Scott

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: 1960 40 HP.

If you've got the two tube water pump (and you ought to) then you can use the 33hp gearcase ('65-'71) although if it comes with a water pump it'll be useless. You could also use a '71-'73 40hp gearcase I believe with the same reservation.

I would not use a '50s era gearcase nor the 28hp one, as these have weaker internal bearing arrangements.

I see a couple of these on ebay right now. Use these search terms:
(40, 40hp, 33, 33hp) (Evinrude, Johnson) (lower unit, gearcase, "gear case")

The $50 estate sale one looks very tempting. The $150 one has got a frost crack. It won't affect it but it is a defect that will need repair. The $300 one is too much money.

 

[CBCHIEF2]

Re: 1960 40 HP.

Thanks Paul, I am watching the estate one right now but did'nt see the cracked one
. Also you are correct on the 2 tube water pump, so are you saying the water pump will be useless or the entire L/U .. Thanks Scott

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: 1960 40 HP.

Just the water pump. Some of the later 40hp engines used three line pumps ('66-70 I think) which wouldn't work with yours. Then they switched to single line pumps like the 33hp for '71-'73. You can use the '66-'70 3 line l/u as long as you get the pump with it. (The third line is the water intake).

 

[desertgoldhound]

Re: 1960 40 HP.

Hey I had a part machined for a motercycle last year and they only charged me about 250 you may wont to check with your local machinest to see if they can do this for you. If you can find a gear that has the same aspects except a few biger spots you may be able to have them machine that for cheaper. To get this done cheaper see if your local colledge or high school has a machine shop they will do it for real cheap and good quality also.

 

[F_R]

Re: 1960 40 HP.

The two tube lower units are different than the single tube style and will not interchange. So, it's the gearcase and water pump that will be useless to you if you get a single tube unit. However, the stuff inside is mostly the same on 33-40 hp. Newer units have the improved snap shift detents so that is preferable. Not exactly sure which year the change was made, but '68 has it. And older units might have been converted if you get lucky.

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: 1960 40 HP.

Thanks F_R, I thought for sure those two gearcases were the same outside the pump.

I've got a '65 with a detent and a '64 without, and I'm pretty sure the '65 is all original.

 

[garboj]

Re: 1960 40 HP.

For what it's worth - I just rebulit gearcase in a 1964 Evinrude 28 hp speeditwin. Hardest part was finding updated OEM numbers. The clutch dog and both front and rear were rounded and wouldn't stay in gear. shifter was not properly adjusted and helped cause this. ANYWAY - I found the clutch dog for about list price (~50), but found both the front and rear gear on EBAY for about 50 each. Since the whole boat was 200, I couldn't list, and would have junked it if not for kind sellers.... GOOD LUCK!

 

[CBCHIEF2]

Re: 1960 40 HP.

Okay, I got the 1964 L/U off Ebay and it has the single tube water pump. So I am some what confused with the previous replies. Can I just swap out the water pumps? Or do I need to swap out the gears and use my L/U? Thanks, Scott

 

[F_R]

Re: 1960 40 HP.

If you take a look at the two units, off the engine, I think you will see the answer.

 

[CBCHIEF2]

Re: 1960 40 HP.

First a BIG Thank You to everyone for all your help. I am about to start assembling everything but I want to change the shift shaft seal as it is still oem. The manual says I need a special tappered punch. Is there anyway to do it without, or do I need to try to find one? Also it talks about making sure that the gears are adjusted correctly, the only adj. I see or know of is the control cable is there anythng else? Thanks Scott

 

[F_R]

Re: 1960 40 HP.

Using a 5/16" coarse thread tap, turn it into the brass bushing about 3 or 4 turns. (A 1/4 drive socket extention makes it easier to reach) Remove the tap and thread a bolt into its place. Now use a punch to drive the whole shebang out from the other side, punching against the bolt end. You can re-use the bushing.

The shift handle on the motor is adjustable, and so is the lockout lever pin/lever doodad (technical term).