Dhadley said:What happens when you start it? Does it run OK then?
Joe said:Disconnect the large RED electrical plug at the engine. Remove all spark plugs. Rig a spark tester whereas you can set a 7/16" gap.
Crank engine by using a small jumper wire from the battery terminal of the starter solenoid to the small 3/8" nut on the solenoid that engages it (not the 3/8" hex ground nut). If you now have proper spark, in all probability the ignition switch has a slight intermitent short, in which case, replace it.
Let us know what you find.
JUSTINTIME said:check coil primary voltage
-primary resistance
seconardy resistange
-coil grounds
Dhadley said:What happens when you start it? Does it run OK then?
i do not have oem manual,i have a clymer.sorry not sure what needle gap test iswilde1j said:Start it.
What manual are u using? The OEM shop manuals have decent checklist for non-running motor condition.
What was the result of the needle gap spark test?
wilde1j said:See Joe Reeves comment ... easy to make a tester with some sharpened nails, etc. Try a search for 'spark tester'.
the last test was done with the red harness conector unpluged,i quess it's possible my battery is a little weak and not getting up to 300 rpm.i'll check the battery or replace..Joe said:That engine must crank over with at least 300 rpms in order to have the stator energize the powerpack.
Is the engine dropping down in rpms drastically after those first 15 or 20 turns?
Since you now (temporarily) have proper spark on all cylinders when using a spark tester, Disconnect the RED connector as mentioned previously when testing for spark to see if the spark continues strong as it should. If the spark now continues strong, suspect the ignition switch.
well mr reeves i think you may have got it.i don't think it's the battery but the starter.i just switched out the battery with a fresh one and my starter just quit..so i guess i'll buy a new starter and start over..thanks for all the help.i will let everyone know how it goes after my new starter gets here.thanks danJoe said:That engine must crank over with at least 300 rpms in order to have the stator energize the powerpack.
Is the engine dropping down in rpms drastically after those first 15 or 20 turns?
Since you now (temporarily) have proper spark on all cylinders when using a spark tester, Disconnect the RED connector as mentioned previously when testing for spark to see if the spark continues strong as it should. If the spark now continues strong, suspect the ignition switch.