2000 9.9 HP/4 stroke Spark Plug Fogging/Replacement

[imported_Kiowa]

I recently purchased a 2000 Evinrude 9.9 HP outboard motor (came with mini pontoon). It is a four stroke, 305 cc. My question involves winterzing the motor. It will stay outside during the winter. The local resort owner takes care of most pontoons on our small lake and took the boat out of the water for me. He added stabilizer to the fuel tank prior to loading it on the trailer....drove it around the lake for about 20 minutes before loading it so the stabilizer had a chance to run throughout the motor. He checked the lower gear lube and determined it was okay....no water appeared to be in it. Then he opened up the hood and was going to pull the plugs and spray fogging oil in them and then replace them. However, he did not have the necessary tools....spark plug wrench. He promised to return to complete the job once he found the correct tools, however, I fear I am low priority on his list as he has many other boats to service, and has not been back for weeks.

My question is.....is it necessary to pull the spark plugs and spray them with fogging oil? Also, can you tell me how to remove the plug that is in the bottom area? There is one plug that is easily accessible, but the other one is down lower and appears to be really hard to get to. Do you have to remove part of the housing to get to it?

Another concern I have is whether the gas can and battery should be left on the boat during the winter. Filling the gas can to cut down on condensation I know should be done. Should I take the battery off and store in the house? Also, should I tilt the motor and cover it to prevent snow getting on it.

I have read many posts on the message board and have a good idea of how to winterize an outboard motor....but the few remaining questions above still have me wondering.

I'm somewhat mechanically inclined and know my way around a screw driver and wrench, as I build and repair computers. So I'm sure I can pull the plugs if I need to and perform the other tasks.

I'm new at this and appreciate any and all help. Thanks.

 

[Monahans]

Re: 2000 9.9 HP/4 stroke Spark Plug Fogging/Replacement

K-Man,
We fog our 4 strokes here different. In addition to actually fogging, we run them on a 50-1 tank. We combine a little 2 stroke oil with 2+4 conditioner. When we're convinced the engine's running on that cocktail, we then fog the motor for several minutes. That way you get a nice protective film in your intake manifold, internal engine and all down through your lower unit. Then we spray the engine down with CRC 656 or a similiar product (WD40) A battery's biggest enemy is lack of use. A non-charged battery WILL freeze. We suggest putting the battyer indorrs and putting a trickle charger on it with an auto on/off feature. Hope we helped!

 

[Silvertip]

Re: 2000 9.9 HP/4 stroke Spark Plug Fogging/Replacement

One additional suggestion would be to remove the tank, drain the fuel and burn it in your car, truck, mowers, or snowblower. Store the tank inside. Next spring, refill with fresh fuel and go. The stabilizer that's in it now will not hurt any of the engines it's used in. The guy that "checked" the lower unit did not do you any favors. If freezing temps are an issue in your area, the lower unit should be drained each fall and refilled with fresh lub. Yours showed no evidence of water but never-the-less, it simply good layup procedure to service the lower unit. If fogging oil is introduced through the intake there is really no need to remove the plugs however an extra shot through them does no harm and provides extra piece of mind.

 

[iwombat]

Re: 2000 9.9 HP/4 stroke Spark Plug Fogging/Replacement

For a four-stroke you should change oil and filter and run the engine enough to circulate it before winterizing. The same goes for lower-end lube (as per Silvertip's suggestion) if you suspect any water intrusion.

Engine lubricants not only lubricate your engine and other moving parts, they also serve as a waste collector of all the things that are created by combustion or are broken apart with high heat and friction. During storage, any unburnt fuel, unspent exhaust gases, or water vapor is trapped inside your engine. Over a period of months, these chemicals eventually break down the viscosity of your engine oil and can even begin to corrode metal surfaces. A fresh batch of oil will get rid of as much junk as possible before storing.

 

[imported_Kiowa]

Re: 2000 9.9 HP/4 stroke Spark Plug Fogging/Replacement

Thanks for all the additional info. Apparently, fogging should have taken place prior to putting boat/motor in dry dock, when it was running. Also changing oil and filter, as well as low end lube is good advice. However, I still would like to know:

1. Is it necessary to pull the spark plugs and spray them with fogging oil?

2, How do I remove the plug that is in the bottom area? There is one plug that is easily accessible, but the other one is down lower and appears to be really hard to get to.

3. Do you have to remove part of the housing to get to the lower spark plug.

4. What type of wrench(s) should be used to get to lower spark plug.

Being a newbee I appreciate all advice. It's starting to get colder here in Indiana so I need all your suggestions. Thanks in advance.

 

[Monahans]

Re: 2000 9.9 HP/4 stroke Spark Plug Fogging/Replacement

K-Man,
We fog our 4 strokes here different. In addition to actually fogging, we run them on a 50-1 tank. We combine a little 2 stroke oil with 2+4 conditioner. When we're convinced the engine's running on that cocktail, we then fog the motor for several minutes. That way you get a nice protective film in your intake manifold, internal engine and all down through your lower unit. Then we spray the engine down with CRC 656 or a similiar product (WD40) A battery's biggest enemy is lack of use. A non-charged battery WILL freeze. We suggest putting the battyer indorrs and putting a trickle charger on it with an auto on/off feature. Hope we helped!

 

[tfbrown1270]

Re: 2000 9.9 HP/4 stroke Spark Plug Fogging/Replacement

Regarding the tough to get at plug,...provided there is enough room to put a spark plug socket over the plug you can turn it with an open end wrench, at least the 13/16 spark plug deep socket I got from Craftsman has that built in to its end...when there is no room to get a ratchet drive, extension or flex drive then use the socket with the built in nut end....if yours doesn't have that try to find one, they are cheap.

 

[WTPhantom309]

Re: 2000 9.9 HP/4 stroke Spark Plug Fogging/Replacement

also leave ur motor tilted down so water doesnt collect in the prop and so any water in the engine drains out, thats what I have been doin for years and havnt had any trouble yet, my 2 cents

Derek