Re: 1985 Johnson 140hp VRO system
The oil injection system also needs maintenance.
Empty the oil tank and replace the sock, periodically.
Make sure to mix fuel until you verify oil useage, after maintenance.
See below, from FAQ's.
PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE
There is no mechanical maintenance that has to be performed on the pump
itself, but the VRO system should be inspected occasionally for cracked
lines, leaks, and broken clamps. One of the most common causes of engine
failure is water in the remote oil tank. Condensation and spray can build up
over time and, like water in a fuel tank, it stays on the bottom to be
sucked up at the worst possible moment. Water pumps through the system as
easily as oil, so several time a year use a turkey baster to draw off some
fluid from the base of the tank and squirt it into a clean jar. Look for
sediment or water settling to the bottom of the container. If you see any
signs of contamination, the tank should be flushed clean, the filter
(#174377) changed, and the oil line purged. Be sure to read and understand
the service manual before doing any of these procedures. If an oil tank is
exposed to the elements such as in an open boat, installing the tank inside
a covered battery box will protect it from spray. You can also replace the
clear plastic cap with the later model's solid black filler cap (#176217)
that provides much better water intrusion resistance. The oil line should be
OMC's ¼-inch I.D. inner "rubber" hose (#333485) without any splices. Early
systems had a smooth vinyl oil line that hardened after a few years and
sometimes caused air leaks. (Some installations even had 5/16-inch fuel line
squeezed down over the smaller fittings.) These air leaks can also trigger
"no oil" alarms, commonly at startup, idle, and trolling speeds.
Another service tip is to avoid Ty-raps or worm gear hose clamps on this
system. The ratchet clamps ( #322654) give the best seal and full 360-degree
clamping action. Late-model OMCs use a double-wire wound spring clamp
(#339277) that also works well in keeping lines air tight. Air leaks and/or
fuel restrictions will affect the VRO and usually show up as excessive oil
consumption, smoking, and fouling plugs. If air gets into the fuel, it
causes a foamy solution, similar to a head of beer in a tall glass. ( A
vapor lock situation does the same thing ). The volume of liquid fuel is
less and the oil delivered is the same as for a full chamber of fuel. Now
you have richer gas oil mix with its resulting symptoms. A fuel restriction
such as from a bad anti-siphon valve, kinked line, or a partially plugged
filter does not allow a full charge of gas to be drawn into the fuel pump
cavity. Again, you get the full shot of oil mixing with less gas. This is
also the reason to /not/ disconnect the gas line and run the engine "dry".
As you run out of fuel, the oil still pumps, filling the lines and carbs
with your favorite TC-W3 lubricant. Since the VRO depends on crankcase
pulses to operate, it is susceptible to backfires from a lean running
cylinder or an out of tune engine. If your motor is older than a 1993, make
sure it has the blue colored pulse limiter to protect the air motor and the
check valves in the pump. Follow the pulse line from the VRO to the engine
block and look for a hex shaped fitting threaded into the crankcase. If it
has a black face on it, replace it with a blue style (part # 435009). The
crossflow V-6s have a pulse limiter with a fitting at each end and spliced
in line with the VRO to crankcase hose. The inline replacement is part #
435010.
