which lower unit

bigk

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Dec 17, 2006
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I have a 1967 Johnson 40 hp motor that I bought. The lower unit has water getting into it and I need to replace the seals. A guy at the boat shop I saw about an unrelated problem said the lower unit on the motor looked smaller than it should and it had maybe been switched out by the previous owner .How can I tell what lower unit it is so I can buy the proper seal kit. I also see on this motor was built as an electric shift and manuel shift how can I tell witch this is? This is my first attempt at any type of repair on an outboard, but I am handy with automobiles and would like to give this a try. Your help is greatly appreiciated
 

jimmbo

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May 24, 2004
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Re: which lower unit

what's the model #?
three easy ways to tell if it is an electric shift 40hp; first the mechanical shift model has a shift lever on the starboard side of the motor, the electric shift doesn't.
Second, the mechanical shift gearcase is smaller and has a rounded nose and the housing splits along the propshaft centerline and is held together by screws/bolts. The electric shift gearcase is larger with a pointier shape. It splits above the propshaft centerline and is held together by internal studs.
third, does the remote have one or two levers? Electric johnson always had single lever controls. Rarely did a mechanical shift Johnson have single lever controls bacl then.
 

bigk

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Dec 17, 2006
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Re: which lower unit

From what you said I believe it is a manual shift. there is a lever on the motor and the controls have two levers. I can't find any model numbers on the lower unit. Is there anyway to know if it is the correct lower unit for the motor or if it fits the motor it must be a 1967 40hp lower unit?
 

bigk

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Dec 17, 2006
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Re: which lower unit

It looks like the manuel shift. I bought the service manuel online. Are there any tricks I should know about to replace the seals? The manuel only describes a complete teardown not just replacing the seals. Do I have to compleatly tear down the lower unit or are the seals a less intensive job?

Agin thanks for all your help.
 

jimmbo

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Re: which lower unit

I screwed up on the links in last post

http://www.old-omc.de/j_1962/seite_12b.jpg

well to replace all the seals you pretty much have to take it apart which allows you to check parts for rust and wear. There are seals on the propshaft, shift shaft, beneth the water pump, on the pivot screw, an o-ring on the propshaft bearing carrier, and the spagetti seal between the two parts of the gearcase. Also are the seals under the drain and level screws.

Before taking it apart, take it to a dealer to have them pressure test and vaccumn test the unit. Maybe just the fill seals on the screws were bad. Water pump seal failure allows water pump to force water into the gear case pushing oil out
 

itstippy

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Jul 17, 2003
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548
Re: which lower unit

You have a manual; that's the most important tool in your box of tricks. Read the chapter on lower units. You will need to "drop" the lower unit from the motor so you can replace the rubber impeller that pumps water. They get old and dry and must be replaced periodically (they are a "consumable"). While you have the lower unit off you should pressure test it to see where it leaks. The most common cause of water intrusion is simply the seals on the oil drain & fill screws. These should be replaced too (also consumables). Buy a half-dozen of these. There's at least a 50/50 chance that you don't even need to replace the internal seals. A couple 50 cent nylon oil screw washers and you're good to go.
With the lower unit off and the oil drained, put the oil fill screw back in with a new seal (nylon washer). Now take a tire valve stem and whittle it down enough so you can screw it into the open oil fill hole. Presto - you have a way to pressurize the lower unit. Submerge the lower unit in the bathtub or, if you have a nice bathtub, cover the lower unit with very soapy water. Use a bicycle pump to put about 10 pounds of pressure into it and watch for bubbles. It's just like testing a tire with a slow leak. Don't use more than 10 pounds of pressure or for sure you'll have leaks because you'll blow the seals. They're supposed to keep water out at sea level, not 20,000 leagues under the sea. Your unit should hold 10 pounds of pressure without any bubbles for hours. If it doesn't and you see bubbles then you will need to order and install a seal kit. No big deal since you're mechanically inclined. Post back if you encounter problems.
 

jimmbo

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Re: which lower unit

you should see how my two fingers move:^
 

bigk

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Dec 17, 2006
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Re: which lower unit

Thanks for your help. I will take it in and have it checked.
 

itstippy

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Jul 17, 2003
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Re: which lower unit

I'm not trying to take the bread & butter out of the marine tech's mouth, but since if you can do the work yourself - you say you're handy with cars - you can save a lot of money. The professionals must charge $50 - $75 an hour to make ends meet. That adds up fast. They don't do much work on the old-timer motors because it's just not cost effective. Your 40 HP Big Twin is a great motor (I have three), but they aren't worth more than a few hundred dollars in good condition.
 

jimmbo

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Re: which lower unit

Most shops will do the pressure/vacumn test for nothing or a minimun chagre, probably because 8 out of 10 times the owner will be bringing the torn apart unit back in a box pleading for them to drop everything and put it back together
 

bigk

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Dec 17, 2006
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Re: which lower unit

I checked at the shop today and he said it was going to run in the $500-$600 range to replace all the seals. I really don't want to put that much into this old motor. I have not even had it on the water yet since I bought it . Are there any special tools I need to try and do this myself? I am also intereseted in any tips some of you who have done this before may have for this first-timer.

Thanks
 

jimmbo

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Re: which lower unit

I assume your hands are in the air and they are pointing a gun at you. Thats awfully high for 1 to 1 1/2 hrs work. That unit isn't too hard to reseal. It has been many years since I had my dads 35hp gearcase apart.. You might need to use a slide hammer to get the shift shaft seal out, new one would press back in. My old service manual said to use a hardening sealer(permtex #1) on the two halves of the case. Also to have a bit( 1/16") of the spagetti seal extend past flush with the housingat the rear bearing carrier.
While you have it apart replace the water pump impeller, the bottem plate of the pump and even the pump housing if it is scored
 

neilp53

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Dec 9, 2006
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Re: which lower unit

Going on from the quote about the hole in the water.

It is my understanding, that there are only two days in the life of a boat owner when he is happy! The day he buys the boat and the day he sells it
Good luck
 
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