Checking a stator

[Broken1]

Looking for information on how to check the stator on at 93 model 150 evinrude.
Also need to check the timer base.

 

[reeldutch]

Re: Checking a stator

there is a lot of information on OIS ignition system.

Sorry Dutch....no links to commercial sites aloud. However you can "refer" to a site....ie...Master Tech Marine.

Jim

you will need a fluke meter and dva adapter.
to mesure peak volts.
you will need a set of piercing probes.

CDI sells all the aftermarket stuff and some tools.

what the problem with your motor?

this motor has :
- charge coil
-powercoil
within the stator

the optical sensor(trigger) you can test with the optical ignition analyzer.

good luck

 

[Broken1]

Re: Checking a stator

Multiple problems.
Hard to start when carried to the lake, but starts fine on muffs. When it does start, it won't stay running long, at idle. When trying to reach plane, it dies just like the switch has been turned off. After it runs for a little, it starts and runs fine, until the next trip to the water. Also had problems with excessive smoke and rough idle but found that to be recirculation fittings stopped up. Seems like two different problems, maybe one fuel and one ignition. I have replaced the intake gaskets, manifold gaskets and rebuilt the carbs.
I am always open for suggestions and appreciate any I can get. I have been told that if the power coil puts out too much power, it will damage the power pack. What is considered too much power? How can that happen without showing resistance out of range. I did check the resistance. Book says 90-110 ohms (through the coil), but I was reading 55.6 ohms. This was at about 65 degrees temperature. I do have a peak reading digital VOM and do plan to check the output voltage once it get the carbs put back so I can spin the engine.
Thanks.

 

[Texasmark]

Re: Checking a stator

Not familiar with your engine but here are a couple of things:

We were just talking yesterday about power packs having their own built in regulator. I think WillybeRight was the source of that info. That said, your battery voltage shouldn't be that critical.

Next, to check your stator output, why not just read your battery voltage when the engine is running. Most alternators will put out somewhere around 14.5 volts (at the battery terminals) when the battery is charging, when it contains maybe 3/4 or so of full charge and engine is at moderate rpm's. More or less for charge amount, or more or less rpm's could vary the voltage half volt or so.

Temp has to change a lot to change the resistance of copper so your reading should be closer than that. Most inductive measurements (industry) standard temp is 25C (about 75F). I never measured one (OB ignition coil) so don't know how close they track the manual. Less resistance could indicate shorted turns which will not allow the coil to develop full voltage meaning you will get weak firing, or no firing of your plugs. The energy of the coil goes into trying to develop voltage across the shorted turn(s) and the coil gets very hot and the output is reduced proportionally.

HTH,

Mark

 

[reeldutch]

Re: Checking a stator

since you have a dva meter lets get all the readings from the ignition system.

check out the kill switch circuit. make shure thats not causing problems.
make shure your timing is set correctly
idle 6* atdc
full advance 20*
sync and link in spec?

remember that the charge coils (2) suply the pp with voltage to charge the capacitors in the pack.
actualy the pack is 2 packs in one unit.

the powercoil (1) suplies voltage to:
- slow
-quickstart will advance 6*
-optical sensor
-ignition functions (rev limiter)

and then there is your stator charging system providing the reg/rec voltage to be send to your batterys. probbebly has not much to do with your ignition problem if you have one.

as rpm increases so does the voltage produced by the magnets and coils passing each other.
this ac voltage is regulated and rectified inside the pp.

so you should check the output at different rpm's
i would first check the pp output at different rpms.
(primairy wires)
and check the pp grounds.
if the grounds are not grounding propper the pp is not able to regulate the voltage.
it regulates voltage by grounding out overvoltage.
that might be the reason when you accellerate your motor quits. may be?

the timing sensor are actualy 2 sensors in one.
the first sensor is the crankshaft position sensor. signals once every revolution.
the second sensor sends 6 pulses to your pack to trigger the scr switches and 1 pulse for antireverse protection.

you will need the OIS box to check if sensor is ok.
or replace for about 50 dollars

the hard starting might be fuel related. Is your Quickstart working?
At cranking speed voltage from the stator may not be enough to operate pp,therefore there is battery voltage suplied to the pp from the starter solenoid. yellow red stripe.
if you dont get enough v the optical sensor might work intermittnt or not at all.

check out the whole feul system including vst tank
may be you just might be running out of gas and have no ignition problem at all.

 

[Broken1]

Re: Checking a stator

Fuel problem was my 1st instinct. I am waiting on 4 more carb kits and will have them all rebuilt. I didn't really see anything that would cause problems there. I thought the needles might be worn and flooding out, but that don't appear to be. I have already been through the VRO checking the fuel pump and oil pump diaphrams. No problems there. I checked the primer solenoid and the vapor tank and pump. No problems there either. The primer system is working. I have not been able to determine 100% if the quick start is working. Sometimes it appears to be and others it doesn't. That is what turned me on to the ignition system. Also, when the engine shutdown, I would check the fuel line bulb and it has always been firm. Once I get the carbs put back together, I plan on performing the Stator output test. The batteries do charge as they should and have checked the voltage (at idle) and had good readings. I also verified the volt meter in the dash to be working accurately. I am very suspect of the stator on the power coil side. Thanks for your input and I will update. Oh yea, I have replaced the intake gaskets, checked the reed valves and replaced the throttlebody gaskets.

 

[reeldutch]

Re: Checking a stator

sounds to me you will find it.
you can defently tell if quickstart is activated.
the engine shakes and runs a litle rough.
as soon as quickstart deactivates the motor will idle smoother.

good luck

other thing,
check the intake manifold for warping.
somethimes if you look at it sideways you can see its warped.

 

[Broken1]

Re: Checking a stator

Checked the intakes and throttlebodys with straight edge. All is okay. Good and true.
Even though this is a 93 model engine, it doesn't have but a few hours on it. It's on a Stratos bass boat so it's mostly seasonal anyway. The guy I bought it from only had it in the water about 8 times. It still had the stock numbers on the hull when I got it.
A little surprised with the problems based on the use. Another reason I started with the fuel side.