Waterpump Replacement

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MrChuckFL

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Jun 11, 2006
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I just got the waterpump replacement kit and going over the section in the manual to make sure I have everything I need before I get started.

The manual / directions with the part make mention of Moly Lube, Adhesive Sealant, Triple Guard Grease, Gasket Sealing Compound, Outboard Lubricant, Needle Bearing Assembly Grease.

The only thing that came with the part was the moly lube. I think the ouboard lubricant is just the oil that is mixed with fuel.

Is there a need for the other items, and if so, are there any generic items I can get at wally world or auto parts store, or is another trip to the boat store in order?

Any words of wisdom from someone who has done this before?

Attached is the paper that came with the part listing where to use the various items.
 

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WillyBWright

WillyBWright

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Re: Waterpump Replacement

You should have what you need. Gasket sealant is used when reusing old gaskets and when part surfaces are damaged. Gearlube would be needed if changing the gearlube at the same time. The only other thing you should need is a bit of liquid soap or detergent to lube the impeller when you put the housing over it. Something on the threads of the fasteners to prevent corrosion would be helpful. Loctite works, gasket sealant works, grease works (not recommended). Loctite for the bolts holding the gearcase on would be a wise investment.
 
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MrChuckFL

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Re: Waterpump Replacement

I just got it apart.

Looking up inside the top part, it looks like the feed tube to the engine is missing bits of the end.

Is this normal? If not, should it be replaced?

As for the gearcase bolts, I was going to use silver anti-sieze. Is this not a good idea?

photo of tube attached (hopefully)
 

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M

MrChuckFL

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Re: Waterpump Replacement

Here is the photo of the tube

waterpump-007.jpg
 
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imported_MattG

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Nov 1, 2006
Messages
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Re: Waterpump Replacement

It doesnt look like that much of it is missing. I would smooth off the rough pieces and figure out what caused that to happen.

As long at it is getting a good seal on the tube and not leaking water you should be fine.
 
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ezeke

Supreme Mariner
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Sep 19, 2003
Messages
12,532
Re: Waterpump Replacement

What motor is it?

Generally, if the water tube is cut at the end at a 45 degree angle, it is correct.

Most anti-seize products are metal based and should not be used in marine products where dissimilar metals are in contact with each other. The anti-seize can actually accelerate the electrolysis and consequent corrosion. Here is a link for an alternative anti-seize:

"http://www.afcinternational.com.au/site/data/3303_tech.htm"

Copy it to your browser without the quotation marks.

The moly lube is for the driveshaft to crank connection where steel contacts steel.
 
OBJ

OBJ

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Re: Waterpump Replacement

Can't tell real good from the photo if the tube is cut at an angle. But for sure, take a file and smooth out the edges of the tube to it will enter the water pump housing grommet with out cutting it up. You can use a bit of grease on the tube and in the grommet to help them mate up easier.

I use gasket sealing compound on all fasteners that may be exposed to water....like the water pump housing bolts and the bolts for attaching the lower unit to the mid section. A light coat compound on the water pump housing oring (if yours has one) will help hold the oring in place and give a better seal.

And yeah....what is the hp and year? Post a model number if not sure.
 
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MrChuckFL

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Re: Waterpump Replacement

I got it all back together and started it up in a bucket.

After about 30 seconds, water started coming out of the tell tale. I waited a few minutes longer, but no water ever came out of the rear of the engine (C) so I shut her down. The temp guage never moved. Im guessing it isn't working, so Im going to have to test the circuit.

My first mate started yelling about water coming out of the bottom of the gearcase took some photos. I climbed down and had a look. Sure enough water was coming out of the slot in the gearcase (A) and also dribbling from the shift chase (C)

This is my first O/B so I don't know if this is normal or there is something else that needs to be replaced.

waterout.jpg
 
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MrChuckFL

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Re: Waterpump Replacement

Im wondering if the temp gauge is bad. After everthing cooled off, I got out the meter and checked to see if I could troubleshoot the problem. I checked at the back of the gauge and got 114.9 ohm. I checked what I think is the sensor (rear of the powerhead port side just above the spark plug?
) and also got 114.9.

Does this reading sound right?
 
OBJ

OBJ

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Re: Waterpump Replacement

Chuck....DO NOT START THE ENGINE IN THAT BUCKET AGAIN!!

There is not enough water around the lower unit. You must get the level above the mating line between the lower unit and midsection. The water pump will not draft water....it is designed to be IN the water to work.

Did you get the overtemp alarm? Wasn't quite clear wether you did or not and I would not be surprised if you did.

The water dribbling out of the tell tale and let's you know your getting water to the block however, water should shoot out of there very shortly after the engine is started and not as long as 30secs.

Any water that comes out of "C" would be in the form of a very fine mist that may pick up a little once the t-stats open.

If it were mine....sorry to say....I think I would check the pump to make sure no damage was done to the pump impeller.

Not sure if you have an added on sensor for the temp gage or maybe refering to the overheat sensor in the head....it'll have a tan wire coming out of it. Could you amplify this a little?
 
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MrChuckFL

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Jun 11, 2006
Messages
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Re: Waterpump Replacement

I did not get the overheat alarm.

The tan wire is the one that I tested.

So bucket = no good | muffs = ok

I prefer to use the bucket so it isn't as noisy. Guess I should use the muffs and the bucket?
 
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ezeke

Supreme Mariner
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Messages
12,532
Re: Waterpump Replacement

See if you can't raise the bucket enough to cover the mating line, or raise the trailer tongue to lower the motor..

You can't check the temp sender ohms while it is connected to the gauge.
 
M

MrChuckFL

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Messages
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Re: Waterpump Replacement

Rick, Thanks for the link to the page on gauge testing. That helped a lot.

I Disconnected the sensor and checked. Got an open circuit so it looks like the sensor is bad. Guess now it's off to my favorite store to buy more parts

Just to make sure I had the right wire / sensor, I grounded the tan wire and the gauge pinned, so I have the right wire and the gauge is good.
 
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