Is the rectifier bad on my 73 115hp Johnson?

teslaman

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 5, 2006
Messages
196
The last time I took my boat out I blew cylinder #2. I have since replaced the powerhead with the rebuild from iboats.com. When the motor blew I had just installed a new fishfinder and was out on the lake to test it. When I started to turn up the throttle, I noticed that the rpm guage was not working (it had worked in the past). At first I thought that I had accidently pulled a wire will I was running cables to the fishfinder, but I recently checked the tach connections while installing the rebuild and they look OK.

I don't think that this has anything to do with the motor blowing as it was obvious that the piston was smacking the sparkplug, but I'm not sure that the rectifier is working properly. Now that I've explained the problem, I have 4 questions:

1) Is it possible for me to test the rectifier?
2) Is it possible for me to test the tach?
3) The rectifier connects to terminals 8,7,& 5 according to my Clymer and SELOC manuals. I noticed that terminals 7 & 6 are connected by a jumper which doesn't show-up in the manual? Is there a reason why this jumper was there?
4) Does the rectifier perform any funtions other than provide pulses for the tach and recharge the battery?
 

rickdb1boat

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jan 23, 2002
Messages
11,195
Re: Is the rectifier bad on my 73 115hp Johnson?

See if the charging system is working. Take a voltage reading with the engine off and again running at about 2000 RPM's. You should see an increase in voltage. If not, odds are your rectifier is shot...These tests posted by Joe Reeves may help too...


(Small Rectifier Test)
(J. Reeves)

Remove the rectifier wires from the terminal block. Using a ohm meter, connect the black lead of the ohm meter to the rectifier base (ground), then one by one, connect the red lead of the ohm meter to the yellow, yellow/gray, then the red wire (some rectifiers may also have a yellow/blue wire. If so connect to that also). Now, reverse the ohm meter leads and check those same wires again. You should get a reading in one direction, and none at all in the other direction.

Now, connect the black lead of the ohm meter to the red wire. One by one, connect the red lead of the ohm meter to the yellow, yellow/gray, and if present, the yellow/blue wire. Then reverse the leads, checking the wires again. Once more, you should get a reading in one direction and none in the other.

Note that the reading obtained from the red rectifier wire will be lower then what is obtained from the other wires.

Any deviation from the "Reading", "No Reading" as above indicates a faulty rectifier. Note that a rectifier will not tolerate reverse polarity. Simply touching the battery with the cables in the reverse order or hooking up a battery charger backwards will blow the diodes in the rectifier assy immediately.

--------------------
ReevesJ32@aol.com

30+ Years With OMC

And if it's a water cooled rectifier then see this post:


Testing Tachometer With Water Cooled Regulator/Rectifier)
(J. Reeves)

A quick check is to simply plug in a another new tachometer as a piece of test equipment. If the new tach works properly and the old tach didn't, obviously the old tach is faulty.... but usually boaters don't carry around a spare tach (see below).

A faulty rectifier wouldn't damage the tachometer, the tachometer simply wouldn't work. This is due to the fact that the tachometer operates off of the charging system and the rectifier converts AC voltage to DC voltage, enabling the charging system. A faulty rectifier disables the charging system, and the tachometer simply doesn't register.

However.... those watercooled regulator/rectifiers that are used on the 35amp charging systems (and some others) bring into play a different type problem, and as you've probably found out, they are really a pain to troubleshoot via the proper procedure. There's an easier way.

The tachometer sending/receiving setup operates off of the gray wire at the tachometer. That same gray wire exists at the engine wiring harness which is connected to the engine electrical terminal strip. You'll see that there is a gray wire leading from the regulator/rectifier to that terminal strip, and that there is another gray wire attached to it. That other gray wire is the wire leading to the tachometer which is the one you're looking for.

Remove that gray wire that leads to the tachometer. Now, find the two (2) yellow wires leading from the stator to that terminal strip. Hopefully one of them is either yellow/gray or is connected to a yellow/gray wire at the terminal strip. If so, connect the gray wire you removed previously to that yellow/gray terminal. Start the engine and check the tachometers operation, and if the tachometer operates as it should, then the regulator/rectifier is faulty and will require replacing. If the tachometer is still faulty, replace the tachometer.

If neither of the yellow wires from the stator is yellow/gray, and neither is attached to a yellow/gray wire, then attach that gray tachometer wire to either yellow stator wire, then the other yellow wire, checking the tachometer operation on both connections.

I've found this method to be a quick and efficent way offinding out which component is faulty.... the tachometer or the regulator/rectifier. It sounds drawn out but really only takes a very short time to run through. If the water cooled regulator/rectifier proves to be faulty, don't put off replacing it as they have been known to catch on fire with disasterous consequences.
 

teslaman

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 5, 2006
Messages
196
Re: Is the rectifier bad on my 73 115hp Johnson?

Sounds like a simple test to me and would give me an idea if the rectifier has a problem. I'll give it a try. Thanks!
 
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