Rough running 20 hp Mercury

Jake N

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Feb 11, 2007
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I just bought a 1974 Mercury 20hp motor. The motor is very difficult to crank when it is cold. It runs good at 1/2 throttle or more but when you go less than about 1/2 throttle it backfires. The slower you go, the more it backfires. It will not idle.

I already ordered a manual but it has not come in yet.

Where to start?
 

imported_buddy

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Feb 3, 2007
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Re: Rough running 20 hp Mercury

Jake said:
I just bought a 1974 Mercury 20hp motor. The motor is very difficult to crank when it is cold. It runs good at 1/2 throttle or more but when you go less than about 1/2 throttle it backfires. The slower you go, the more it backfires. It will not idle.

I already ordered a manual but it has not come in yet.

Where to start?
I would start with a basic tune up. Plugs,wires,etc.Be sure you are not using ethanol blended gasoline.
 

Laddies

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Re: Rough running 20 hp Mercury

Change the insulator blocks on the point studs
 

Jake N

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Re: Rough running 20 hp Mercury

Laddies said:
Change the insulator blocks on the point studs

I can see how that could be the culprit. I'll give it a try this weekend.
 

Jake N

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Re: Rough running 20 hp Mercury

buddy said:
I would start with a basic tune up. Plugs,wires,etc.Be sure you are not using ethanol blended gasoline.

It has new plugs. I don't think the gas has ethanol.
 

jimmbo

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13,638
Re: Rough running 20 hp Mercury

Check any wiires that rub against any part of the throttle linkage for damaged insulation and any wires that go to the stator plate. These could be grounding/shorting as the throttle is retarded.
could also be dirt in low speed circut of carb. Using an atomizer spary some gas-oil mix into the carb and see if it will run at low speed.
 

Motor Boater Bill

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Re: Rough running 20 hp Mercury

Please post your serial number. If this indeed a 1974, you will find it has no points, so don't be in a big hurry to find them! The ignition on this motor has a CDI box on the side of the motor with a bunch of wires. If you see that, you have CDI ignition.

The spark comes from red coils mounted above the spark plugs on the back of the motor. Under the flywheel you have a stator which supplies current to the CDI box and a trigger that is actuated by a magnet on the flywheel and tells the CDI box when to fire. You could have any one of a number of problems, but it does sound like it could be ignition. Go step by step. I bought a cheap inline spark tester at Harbor Frieght ($5.99) which is very helpful in diagnosis. You unplug the plug wire from the plug, and fasten this in between. It has a bulb that lights when the wire fires, and the spark still fires, so you can see it with the engine running. You may need to shade it with your hat on a sunny day to see the bulb. This will help you see if the problem is isolated to one cylinder or if it crops up on both. If it is just on one, swap coils and see if it moves to the other cylinder. If it goes with the coil, coil is bad. If it stays with the same cylinder when you swap coils, the switchbox is suspect.

A few other possible causes of low end problems: 1. The ignition stator has two coils, low-speed and high-speed. But if the low speed coil was shot, seems like the motor wouldn't even start. But maybe it's just weak. 2. The trigger moves when you advance the throttle, and the wire from it flexes. If the wire is frayed you may be losing the trigger signal at certain throttle positions. These motors were notorious for the insulation on the wires rotting and falling apart. Check all the wires. 3. The wire from the terminal block to the kill switch is always suspect--disconnect it and see if your problems go away. You can kill the motor with the choke, then replace the wire. 4. You could have a sheared flywheel key, causing the motor to be out of time. 5. You could have bad crankshaft seals, messing up the mix at low RPMs. 6. Your low speed adjustment on the carb could be off. The high speed jet is fixed.

Grubbs has all the ignition parts, or watch eBay, although I have bought two NOS ignition coils for mine on eBay, at different times, that turned out to be bad. The ignition parts are expensive, so try to diagnose as much as possible before you start just throwing parts at it. If you have to buy them, as a mechanic told me when I bought a Volvo years ago, prepare your pocketbook!

Keep us posted on your progress. These are good motors, and the ignition parts are easy to replace so the mechanical work is not rocket science if you can figure out what the problem is.
 

Jake N

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Re: Rough running 20 hp Mercury

Motor said:
Please post your serial number. If this indeed a 1974, you will find it has no points, so don't be in a big hurry to find them! The ignition on this motor has a CDI box on the side of the motor with a bunch of wires. If you see that, you have CDI ignition.

I can't remember the SN off hand but it starts with 41. I'm glad you mentioned this because I could not find points on it anywhere. It has the box with wires going in and out of it on the starboard side (CDI box, I guess.)

The kill switch doesn't seem to work so that should be a good place to start looking, huh?

This motor has set up for a while so it could be anything, I guess.

I'll revisit you post when I get home and can check the motor out some more.
 

Chinewalker

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Re: Rough running 20 hp Mercury

Inspect ALL wires on the motor as the covering Mercury used during that era was notorious for deteriorating and cracking. Lots of them have been cobblefarted together with solder, connectors, tape, etc. Also, check the coils for cracks. One might be arcing out at low speed - you might even hear a sharp "snap" with the cowling off.

- Scott
 

Laddies

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Re: Rough running 20 hp Mercury

Well Jake after embarrassing myself once with the wrong ign system, I went to the merc manual instead of the aftermarket one I was looking at (I'm always b!tching on here about not using the aftermarket manual) so double the red face. So lets start over, first the hard starting and low speed backfireing are typical of a lean idler condition. Have you cked the carb and engine lines? Some times the intake port covers leak on those engines also. If they are fine then here are the ign specs.
Stator test--- low speed winding (blue) = 5800 to 7000 ohms--high speed winding (red, a few were white) = 180 t0 220 ohms
Trigger test between the 2 trigger wires = 750 to 1400 ohms
Coil test - + and - coil terminals = .02 to .04 @ Rx1---grd. or grd pigtail to coil tower = 9 to 12 @ Rx100 sometimes the grd pigtail breaks or becomes coroded and will cause a miss also
These test are for a system with a swichbox number 332-4911 which is right if your engine number starts with 41xxxxx Hope this helps--Bob
 

Jake N

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Feb 11, 2007
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Re: Rough running 20 hp Mercury

Thanks guys. I inspected the kill switch further and I believe it may be the culpret. There was nothing keeping the copper disk from the contact point. I assume that the copper disk is supposed to be attached to the rubber bulb or somehow otherwise kept away from the contact..

I may fire it up tonight but in all likelyhood I'll wait until this weekend to test it in the bucket.
 

Jake N

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Feb 11, 2007
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Re: Rough running 20 hp Mercury

Wait a second, if the kill switch was operating in the manner I suspect, how was the motor running at all?

We'll see.
 

Motor Boater Bill

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Re: Rough running 20 hp Mercury

You can easily disconnect the wire to the kill switch at the terminal block, so it is out of the picture. Then go ahead and test the motor, and check other possible sources of trouble. It could be shorting intermittently. You may not be that lucky, but it's a place to start.

Bob, thanks for posting those coil test values!

If your problem is all backfire and no miss, then it seems more like either timing or carb (see Laddies post above on lean idle). That would be good in that you wouldn't have the expensive ignition parts to replace.
 

Jake N

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Feb 11, 2007
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Re: Rough running 20 hp Mercury

Alright, disabling the kill switch didn't seem to help but running it does. My guess would be that the motor set up a while without fuel stablizer.

Also, I noticed that there is a small fuel leak coming from the throttle shaft.

I'm guessing even a small leak from the carb warrents a rebuild. What do y'all think?
 

Jake N

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Feb 11, 2007
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Re: Rough running 20 hp Mercury

Problem solved. I bought the rebuild kit. When I took the carb off I noticed that the fuel line going into the carb had a crack through it. I rebuilt the carb, replaced the fuel line and tuned the idle.

It runs like a champ.

Thank you so much to everyone who replied to this thread and helped me through this project.

It's a great feeling to buy cheap, spend a little time and money and turn out with a fine running motor!
 

Jake N

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Feb 11, 2007
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Re: Rough running 20 hp Mercury

Here's a picture of my $700 investment. I haven't seen any pictures on this board yet, so hopefully this works:

473604.jpg
 
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