Wiring Info

[NealLauderman]

I know when most of you restore your boat, you undo the nest of wires and re-do it for your own sake and what not.

I am in the process of doing it now and have labeled the old wires before I pull them. Where do yall usually get your wire from? I was looking at spools on eBay but the wire was so expensive! Where do you usually get yours from in bulk for descent prices?

Do you have to get marine grade or will any electronic wires work? I am re-doing the bow lights and guages and all that good stuff.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Wiring Info

If you plan to use it in salt at all, go for the marine wire. The reason it is so expensive is that the whole wire is tinned. In salt, regular wire will corrode faster than you can shake a stick at it. Not so bad in fresh water but still happens. You pays your money --you buys what you want.

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: Wiring Info

you atleast want stranded copperwire not solid copper. i went to home depot and bought all the different colors in 25 ft rolls. you can figure out what colors your are going to put where, as wires to the stearn, streach them out , tied one end together, and attach to something. put the other end in you drill chuck, turn drill on and twist a wireing harness. tape occasionally to keep neat.

http://forums.iboats.com/bbBoard.cgi?a=viewthread;fid=36;gtid=1262348

 

[iwombat]

Re: Wiring Info

If you properly solder and heat-shrink all the connectors even regular stranded copper will last in salt. The solder will wick back past the end of the insulation and the heat-shrink will keep any moisture out of the exposed end. Sort of belt-and-suspenders protection for the wire ends. This requires buying connectors that don't have the little plastic bits, or just removing them with needle nosed pliers.


One nick in the insulation and you're done for though.

 

[I/O WALDO]

Re: Wiring Info

Like iwombat says, the solder-n-seal method seems to hold up best in a potential moist environment.The only argument I have heard bout this is on stranded wire the heat of soldering can cause the wire at the connection to become brittle and the vibration can cause it to crack.Just be sure to secure all the conn.from vibrations.(@ wire tyes with eyes,straps,etc.

 

[iwombat]

Re: Wiring Info

The heat shrink acts as strain-relief and keeps the soldered bits from flexing. I do all my vehicles (and others) this way. If it will hold up to the vibrations in a pro-street harley stroker, it'll certainly take any vibrations a boat will throw at it.

 

[BLLDOGG]

Re: Wiring Info

Nothing beats soldering and heat shrink. Nothing

 

[Dunaruna]

Re: Wiring Info

[colour=blue]Except crimping......................(running for cover).........................

 

[Realgun]

Re: Wiring Info

http://forums.iboats.com/bbBoard.cgi?a=viewforum;fid=27

You might try posting in the electrical forum.

I say crimp and use a BOH. o

 

[ManOfwar690]

Re: Wiring Info

i always solder n shrink it ask my wife lol

 

[drewpster]

Re: Wiring Info

I have used both methods with equal sucess but I have a question ...or two. I crimp and shrink nowadays because of the ABYC. I figure they know more than me.

I know marine grade insulation is rated at a higher heat range. Does this make it more safe in cases of overload?

 

[byacey]

Re: Wiring Info

Trailer Cable works great for running lights and other accessories remote from the dash area. Trailer cable is individual insulated stranded copper wires in a thick PVC jacket that will stand up to large amounts of brutality, more than what your boat will provide. I recommend crimping and then soldering, followed by heat shrink. Get the shrink tubing with the adhesive inside - it seals better. Be sure to use only rosing core solder for elecronic work. Acid core will only corrode all your connections. A crimped connection without soldering will still eventually corrode with exposure to humidity due to the dis-similar metals of the copper wire and the connector, usually plated brass.