Mr.Don & Mr.Bondo (and the knowledgable others too): Please help me. Thank you.

[NormRinker]

...

 

[jmoorepghpa]

Re: Mr.Don & Mr.Bondo (and the knowledgable others too): Please help me. Thank you.

Re: Mr.Don & Mr.Bondo (and the knowledgable others too): Please help me. Thank you.

Bet you find a remanufactured exact replacement marine short block is the most cost effective. Have the heads done and call it a day.

If you decide to build a motor remember you can't just bolt some automotive performance parts onto a marine motor -- there are some serious safety issues with fuel vapor and ignition sources and concerns with durability and corrosion resistance that marine parts are designed to address. Remember too you want to build a torquey 4800rpm motor rather than a 6500rpm high hp motor that has no bottom end power.

I'm eager to see what Don and Bondo have to say too---I have a sneaky feeling my 302 block has a crack in the lifter valley.

 

[f_inscreenname]

Re: Mr.Don & Mr.Bondo (and the knowledgable others too): Please help me. Thank you.

Re: Mr.Don & Mr.Bondo (and the knowledgable others too): Please help me. Thank you.

Can you salvage what you have? Is the block that screwed up? Can it be cut? Sounds like you know how to build a motor?
Myself, I would build a motor and just did http://www.supernova19.com/motor_build_ii_at_supernova19_com.htm
It may have cost more then a off the shelf motor but I was changing from a small block Mopar to a big block Chevy so I didn?t have much other option, I needed every part. You on the other hand do not. You just need to fix the broken pieces even if it is a short block.
I think what ?jmoorepghpa? was trying to say is you cant just bolt all of a car motor in your boat. But the intake, heads, block, pistons, crank are all the same. Again read my build and you will see almost everything I used came from auto parts stores. It?s the accessories or bolt on?s that make it a marine motor along with brass core plugs if running in saltwater but you have all that from your current motor.
Again if I were you that block would be on its way to the machine shop to be cut (have them check to make sure it can be first) and I would pick up a master kit from??.. where I did.. Here is one for you to start with http://www.naparts.com/ProductModelDetail.cfm?ProductModelId=9638
And I would build the motor I wanted. A 4 barrel carb and intake will be extra but if you bought a long block you would pay for them anyway.

 

[Haut Medoc]

Re: Mr.Don & Mr.Bondo (and the knowledgable others too): Please help me. Thank you.

Re: Mr.Don & Mr.Bondo (and the knowledgable others too): Please help me. Thank you.

Welcome to iboats.....
Your engine is DOA.......
Depending on your ca$h situation, you might just want to look into a fully dressed bobtail.......
At the very least, you'll need a long block & then have to scavange what you can off of your present motor.......
The bobtail would be way easier, both time wise & wallet wise, Imho....
You can score some reasonably priced engines on ebay at times.....
Also , I would hit the ebasicpower site......
​

 

[f_inscreenname]

Re: Mr.Don & Mr.Bondo (and the knowledgable others too): Please help me. Thank you.

Re: Mr.Don & Mr.Bondo (and the knowledgable others too): Please help me. Thank you.

PS You raw water impeller went first. That why everything burned. Even if the motor was not circulating the water the exhaust should have been feed anyway by the raw water pump.
Goes to show you. Change them every year and never start them dry. Or do what I have and have a raw water pump installed on the front of your motor and carry a new impeller. I can change mine out in about 15 minutes while floating down river if and when it goes bad.

 

[NormRinker]

Re: Mr.Don & Mr.Bondo (and the knowledgable others too): Please help me. Thank you.

Re: Mr.Don & Mr.Bondo (and the knowledgable others too): Please help me. Thank you.

JMoore, Whatever that's marine on my boat will stay marine, so that I do intend on doing. I am aware of all the hazards. However, I know the GM 5.7 that I have is basically from GM. There are some parts I can use from automobile application, and the parts will have to be carefully selected. Thank you for your advice though because you are correct in a sense. I am still undecided between throwing on a stock long block and calling it day or doing a build. The torquey 4800rpm or so motor is why I am having some thoughts about the 383ci stroker build or long block. Some torque and more if possible is always nice unless the 383 has reliablity issues. Thanks, Norm

 

[NormRinker]

Re: Mr.Don & Mr.Bondo (and the knowledgable others too): Please help me. Thank you.

Re: Mr.Don & Mr.Bondo (and the knowledgable others too): Please help me. Thank you.

Finscreenname Quote: Can you salvage what you have? Is the block that screwed up? Can it be cut? Sounds like you know how to build a motor?

 

[NormRinker]

Re: Mr.Don & Mr.Bondo (and the knowledgable others too): Please help me. Thank you.

Re: Mr.Don & Mr.Bondo (and the knowledgable others too): Please help me. Thank you.

Haut Medoc,

Thanks for the welcome to Iboats. DOA = Death on Arrival? How true!

I've checked out the ebasicpower site as well as michiganmotorz's. It looks like a new Vortec long block with cast iron 4 barrel intake manifold and a holley 4 barrel carburetor can be had for about $3400-$3800 before shipping cost. That includes ignition, and fuel systems. No exhaust manifolds and risers. They're rated at around 300-315HP, if I remember correctly. Are they any good? I know some like Bondo prefer the Edelbrock/Carter carburetor. 300HP is an improvement over stock 250HP, but a little bit more would be nice. Opinions?

Thanks

 

[Coors]

Re: Mr.Don & Mr.Bondo (and the knowledgable others too): Please help me. Thank you.

Re: Mr.Don & Mr.Bondo (and the knowledgable others too): Please help me. Thank you.

or Jasper, with good warranty.

 

[Bondo]

Re: Mr.Don & Mr.Bondo (and the knowledgable others too): Please help me. Thank you.

Re: Mr.Don & Mr.Bondo (and the knowledgable others too): Please help me. Thank you.

It Sounds like you know your way around a motor well enough,..........

I'd rebuild what you Have,.......

A .030 Overbore,+ an aftermarket Crank will get you a Strong running 383cid.......

 

[Haut Medoc]

Re: Mr.Don & Mr.Bondo (and the knowledgable others too): Please help me. Thank you.

Re: Mr.Don & Mr.Bondo (and the knowledgable others too): Please help me. Thank you.

Bondo says rebuild, which is possible.....
The easy way would be the ebasic way....
You didn't say whether you are in fresh water....
I'm assuming that you are raw water cooled.....
Your manifolds & risers should still be OK, provived that they were in good condition to begin with......
Obviously the exhaust boots are bad & will need to be replaced....
The rest of the accessories will bolt on right on.....
If you want to be in the water ASAP, the ebasic sounds like the way to go, IMHO........​

 

[mkast]

Re: Mr.Don & Mr.Bondo (and the knowledgable others too): Please help me. Thank you.

Re: Mr.Don & Mr.Bondo (and the knowledgable others too): Please help me. Thank you.

Rebuilding will take longer than new long block route.
You mentioned "going boating this summer."
It's not the cheapest route, but new long block would be the quickest way back to the water.
As far as more hp for the engine, everyone would like to have their boat go faster. After you do this a couple of times you'll learn like everyone learns, a "seat of the pants difference" only comes from a MAJOR hp increase (read at least 100 or more). Lots of money and time.

 

[QC]

Re: Mr.Don & Mr.Bondo (and the knowledgable others too): Please help me. Thank you.

Re: Mr.Don & Mr.Bondo (and the knowledgable others too): Please help me. Thank you.

The only thing I will add is that I don't believe that stock carbed 350 pushed that boat to 50 MPH. Like you said "inaccurate speedometer". Below 50 a little speed gain is possible without a whole lot of extra hp. My guess is 320 at the propshaft would get you slightly over 50, but not much more. I think the old setup barely made 45. Also, if you go with a higher hp rating combined with a little higher WOT RPM range, you may get away with using the same prop set, otherwise you are going to be buying a third set . . .

 

[NormRinker]

Re: Mr.Don & Mr.Bondo (and the knowledgable others too): Please help me. Thank you.

Re: Mr.Don & Mr.Bondo (and the knowledgable others too): Please help me. Thank you.

Imported Coors,

Jasper engines.. Where can I get prices on these? I tried their website to no avail. I saw that they do offer 383ci long block with late model Dart heads for marine use which I assume will have some kind of a warranty. I am curious if any body on here know what kind of prices Jasper put on their engines?

Thanks, Norm

 

[NormRinker]

Re: Mr.Don & Mr.Bondo (and the knowledgable others too): Please help me. Thank you.

Re: Mr.Don & Mr.Bondo (and the knowledgable others too): Please help me. Thank you.

Bondo,

First of all, thank you for your time on the post of yours which you answered me with. I have read many of your posts, and your knowledge base has benefitted me in many ways.

I have never re-built a small block Chevy before, but I have built a couple other engines before. You are correct that I do understand the basic concept of rebuilding an engine. Nothing some brains, tools, and a book can't do. Not to mention the simplicity with SBC.

The block I have is 2 bolt mains roller lifter block. I am not sure if it will be a good base for the 383ci build-up. What do you know about that? Will it be worth the extra money to find a 4 bolt mains block for the build-up? I think I can get a new one from GM for about $700-$800 when the used block may cost almost the same. $100-$300? to find the block, then more money for complete machine work.

Would you just stick with the 2 bolt mains and build a 355ci (or even 383ci as you said) out of it instead? I am pretty sure the power I am looking for can be easily acheived out of the smaller example using the right components. I am trying to figure out the costs between doing a build-up or a preassembled engine.

I think I recall you saying that there's a truck engine from GM performance that can run at 4400-4800rpm all day long if so desired. Maybe with some parts swapping. Can you recommend me which one just in case I elect to go down that route?

Many Thanks, Norm

 

[NormRinker]

Re: Mr.Don & Mr.Bondo (and the knowledgable others too): Please help me. Thank you.

Re: Mr.Don & Mr.Bondo (and the knowledgable others too): Please help me. Thank you.

Haut Medoc,

I believe my MerCruiser (OEM) exhaust manifolds and risers should be ok, or that's what I hope for. They are about two years old, and a buddy's uncle flow tested them at his marine shop of 25+ years. He told me they are not cracked even though there is a "hairline crack" I see in the paint on one of the exhaust manifolds in the area where the #3 cylinder is. The manifolds and risers do look good for the most part with no rust around the joints. I thought about having them magnafluxed, but then another boater who saw them said they should be ok.

Ebasicpower way will probably be the fastest way. I am still doing my homework on all of my available options, so let's see what I will do here..I have a whole lot more to replace than just the exhaust rubber boots. I also melted all the bellows, shift cable, both trim and tilt hydraulic hoses, etc. The empty engine bay makes an easier job on the hoses, and cable.

Thanks, Norm

 

[NormRinker]

Re: Mr.Don & Mr.Bondo (and the knowledgable others too): Please help me. Thank you.

Re: Mr.Don & Mr.Bondo (and the knowledgable others too): Please help me. Thank you.

Mkast,

My stock engine rating is at 250HP, so let's say I end up with a 350HP engine this time around. Will it be enough to notice even a slightly "seat-of-the-pants" difference?

Thanks, Norm

 

[NormRinker]

Re: Mr.Don & Mr.Bondo (and the knowledgable others too): Please help me. Thank you.

Re: Mr.Don & Mr.Bondo (and the knowledgable others too): Please help me. Thank you.

QC,

Your belief about my boat top speed may be correct. Is there any way I can do some calculations for my top speed based on the engine rpm and pitch of propellers that I have? I believe it was near 50mph when pushed to the absolute red-line at 4800rpm. I think a SBC can be extended past 5000rpm rather easily with the correct components put in.

Thanks, Norm

 

[jmoorepghpa]

Re: Mr.Don & Mr.Bondo (and the knowledgable others too): Please help me. Thank you.

Re: Mr.Don & Mr.Bondo (and the knowledgable others too): Please help me. Thank you.

Take a look at the gm performance web site-- interesting reading--look in parts then engine showcase, 350-383, then tech specs in that section--the next part is really neat- they have a virtual engine build where you pick your parts, add them to your motor and then dyno out the motor your just built-----very cool

http://www.gmperformanceparts.com/

 

[Coors]

Re: Mr.Don & Mr.Bondo (and the knowledgable others too): Please help me. Thank you.

Re: Mr.Don & Mr.Bondo (and the knowledgable others too): Please help me. Thank you.

My 5.7 Jasper was $2400, with 18 month, un-limited hour warranty.