First post Johnson 85 question

[splibb]

Hello all,this is my first post on this forum and im sure there is somewhere i can find the info i am looking for but im not sure where, so if somebody could help me out or point me in the right direction i would be greatful. I have a johnson 85 that i just bought and its been sitting a while, im sure i need to rebuild the carbs and i was looking for a good deal on carb kits. The serial # is J4964232 and model is 85ETLF(orR)78L.. How can i find out what year this is and what fuel mixture to run? Also any other recommends on what to do to get this engine and outdrive lake ready again would be great. Thanks..

 

[ezeke]

Re: First post Johnson 85 question

You have a 1978 Johnson 85HP:

http://web.archive.org/web/20011223004656/www.evinrude.com/docktalk/modref/jomodyr/JHP85.html

Model Number 85ETLR78 came with Power Tilt and Trim and was a 20" model.

The fuel Ratio is 50:1. 87 or 89 US Octane to TCW-3 oil. If you use the 100% synthetic TCW-3 oil, you will probably have less smoke, less plug fouling, and, if you buy the biodegradable brand, the satisfaction of helping the environment.

It is a good idea to drain the carburetor bowls before you try to run the engine, also to purge the fuel line and try to eliminate old fuel. Buy fuel conditioner and add it whenever you buy fresh fuel. The drain plugs are on each side of the carburetors at the low point. Pull a rag under the carbs to catch the plug if you drop it, and to catch the fuel mix that drains out.

If you plan to do your own maintenance, make every effort to find a OMC Factory Service Manual. You can usually find them on Ebay. It does not matter if it is Evinrude or Johnson. The manuals for 1978 cover the 85HP, 115HP and the 140HP. Try 200110146677 on the Ebay search window.

 

[Rudy Brown]

Re: First post Johnson 85 question

Read the sticky on the top of the forums on "awaking a sleeping outboard" it will tell you everything you need to do. The gas/oil ratio is 50:1, or 1 pint oil to 6 gallons of gas. Oil should be TCW3 rated and unleaded 87 octang gas.
Ezeke, I swear I didnt see the second part of your post before I posted. Must be gettin 'Ol timers.

 

[Gary H NC]

Re: First post Johnson 85 question

Check the gear lube for signs of water then change it.Also the water pump impeller should be changed.Pick up a factory service manual on ebay,they are worth their weight in gold if you plan on keeping the engine

If you can't find one check this link and ask if he has one...http://search.stores.ebay.com/SEARA...sooZ1QQfsopZ1QQfsubZ8QQsaselZ27070634QQsofpZ0

Welcome to Iboats!!

 

[splibb]

Re: First post Johnson 85 question

Thanks for all the info. I will be purchasing a service manual tomorrow.Should i try to run the engine without rebuilding the carbs or just drain them and give it a shot?

 

[splibb]

Re: First post Johnson 85 question

I am also looking for a compatible ignition switch that will work with the 85. It is currently on a 76 Runabout bass/ski boat and i cant seem to find a switch anywhere. I would like to find a switch that has the same "full choke" option as my current one, or i guess i could just run a regular switch and put the choke on a toggle..

 

[F_R]

Re: First post Johnson 85 question

They have the switches here at iboats.

Remove the (4) drain plugs from the carbs as described earlier. look at the ends of them. If they are shiny bright metal coplor, you probably can get by without going any farther with the carbs. But if there is ANY coating at all on the ends of the plugs, you must clean the carbs, paying special attention to the orfice plugs that are deep in the holes behind the plugs.

 

[splibb]

Re: First post Johnson 85 question

Got the engine running and seems to be doing fine. Where is the impeller and what do i need to look for to be sure it is working. I was giving the outdrive water while running and it seemed to blow water out of the center of the prop when in gear. Good right? Am i on the right track for getting this engine back on the water?What else should i look for?

 

[ezmobee]

Re: First post Johnson 85 question

You should really replace the impeller if you don't know how long it's been since it was done last. They are definitely wear items and it could fail on you your first trip out. You should also change the lower unit oil. Remember to fill it from the bottom hole till it starts coming out the top hole. It helps you make sure you've filled it to the proper level. Other than that though, I think if it's running ok you're good to go for a test cruise. Good luck.

The impeller is on the top of the lower unit. It is a bit of a pain to do but manageable. Make sure you disconnect the shift rod up in the powerhead so the lower unit will drop.

 

[F_R]

Re: First post Johnson 85 question

Running on a hose is not a test for the water pump. It can be slap worn out and still work as long as you are force-feeding it with hose pressure.

The concern for the impeller is whether it is stiff and hardened from age, and the fact that the rubber blades have been bent in the same shape for eons. Also, the metal hub has been known to come loose from the rubber---a disaster resulting in burned up pistons when it does. The only way to tell is by visual inspection. And if you go that far, you might as well put in a new one and rest easy, knowing what you have.

 

[splibb]

Re: First post Johnson 85 question

Man the help i have recieved from this forum in the last 2 days has been priceless. Is there somewhere online i can find an exploded view of how to change my impeller? I ordered a service manual but it hasnt arrived yet and im itchin for some lake time.

 

[ezeke]

Re: First post Johnson 85 question

The most difficult part of impeller replacement is removing the gearcase so that you can access the water pump. If you study the water pump diagram on the BRP parts catalog site, you can see the waterpump parts and their positions. They are shown on the "gearcase" diagram.​

http://epc.brp.com/default.aspx?brands=ej&lang=e​

1978 Evinrude 85HP Gearcase Removal in Preparation for Impeller Replacement

You must remove seven bolts facing upward from the gearcase and disconnect the shift rod at the top under the carburetors. ​

The seven bolts are located as follows:​

Two on each side;
One holding the trim tab;
One hidden above the trim tab;
One in front of the trim tab.​

Mark the position of the trim tab so that you can replace it where it was.​

Try not to turn the shift rod during the whole process. It is threaded for adjusting up and down, but best left alone.​

Note that among other housekeeping tasks, you might consider changing the inner gearcase to exhaust housing seal if it is worn – part # 320961 In any event, tape or glue the seal in place during reassembly so that it will not slip. After tightening, friction will hold it in place.