I bought this motor from a guy who said he was having idle problems. I figured for 300 bucks and a little work I could solve the problem and get a great motor for my boat.
Here's what the motor does. Idles just fine on the muffs or in the river out of gear at 1100rpms and at 850rpms if you back off the idle that far. I set the idle out of gear at 1100rpms. When you put it in gear, if you don't bring it up past 1100rpms quick it will die. It runs just fine throughout the rest of the rpm range and at any speed off idle. Key primer doesn't help much. You do have to key prime a bit and throttle up to get it to start when hot. All three carbs show signs of spitting back a little fuel into the air box. I read that some of this is normal (adjusting the floats has no affect). Checked the needles and seats twice (all good).
I have so far rebuilt the carbs (total tear down twice) link and sync on the install 3 times, replaced the stator and rectifier (it had been cracked and melted), replaced the leaking VRO with a standard fuel pump #438559, new fuel lines and primer ball from the tank, new tank vent, new water fuel separator, new champion plugs (tried gapping at .030 and .040), compression is 120 across the board, new plug wires, ran ohms checks on the timer base, stator, rectifier, coils (all within spec), ran a spark check several times at 7/16" gap (all good) temp sensor tested good and the battery is new.
I found a post by Dhadley that fits my issues for a 1978 70hp motor and he replied that these motors have reed valves that stiffen over time that create this problem. I have stainless steel reeds (probably the originals). Could this be my problem? Could this stiffening also cause blow back in the air box by not allowing the fuel to pass by? If I need new reeds then what's the best?
Help???
Here's what the motor does. Idles just fine on the muffs or in the river out of gear at 1100rpms and at 850rpms if you back off the idle that far. I set the idle out of gear at 1100rpms. When you put it in gear, if you don't bring it up past 1100rpms quick it will die. It runs just fine throughout the rest of the rpm range and at any speed off idle. Key primer doesn't help much. You do have to key prime a bit and throttle up to get it to start when hot. All three carbs show signs of spitting back a little fuel into the air box. I read that some of this is normal (adjusting the floats has no affect). Checked the needles and seats twice (all good).
I have so far rebuilt the carbs (total tear down twice) link and sync on the install 3 times, replaced the stator and rectifier (it had been cracked and melted), replaced the leaking VRO with a standard fuel pump #438559, new fuel lines and primer ball from the tank, new tank vent, new water fuel separator, new champion plugs (tried gapping at .030 and .040), compression is 120 across the board, new plug wires, ran ohms checks on the timer base, stator, rectifier, coils (all within spec), ran a spark check several times at 7/16" gap (all good) temp sensor tested good and the battery is new.
I found a post by Dhadley that fits my issues for a 1978 70hp motor and he replied that these motors have reed valves that stiffen over time that create this problem. I have stainless steel reeds (probably the originals). Could this be my problem? Could this stiffening also cause blow back in the air box by not allowing the fuel to pass by? If I need new reeds then what's the best?
Help???