Tach Question...

[ineedacottage]

Re: Tach Question...

Should be OK. It's more the frequency of the pulses rather than the shape. I have a feeling that it's your tach though but could be wrong. If you hook it up to the yellow/gray wire and all is fine then you know the tach is OK.

Great! Thanks a bunch for your help! I really appreciate it. I love learning how all this works!

 

[mrd]

Re: Tach Question...

i need

I did the JR test today. my tach was reading 1000 @ idle on muffs and maxed out at 3000 rpm @ 44mph on the water (somethings wrong with tach im thinking) it would cut out, pegged @1000rpm at wot, come back on at home during flushing of motor. When i ran off of the yellow gray wire (on muffs) it read 1500 and was responsive to every throttle movement. ( could see it pulsing with the revs)when i put it back on the gray wire 1000 and steady not very responsive. That 1500 idle seems right cause i had to advance idle (Needed a crab cleaning, there in the cleaner now) I will be checking the rectifier/regulator next i will let you know

 

[ineedacottage]

Re: Tach Question...

i need

I did the JR test today. my tach was reading 1000 @ idle on muffs and maxed out at 3000 rpm @ 44mph on the water (somethings wrong with tach im thinking) it would cut out, pegged @1000rpm at wot, come back on at home during flushing of motor. When i ran off of the yellow gray wire (on muffs) it read 1500 and was responsive to every throttle movement. ( could see it pulsing with the revs)when i put it back on the gray wire 1000 and steady not very responsive. That 1500 idle seems right cause i had to advance idle (Needed a crab cleaning, there in the cleaner now) I will be checking the rectifier/regulator next i will let you know

Your tach behavior in the beginning of your post is how mine was behaving at first - now (besides a little jump when I turn the key to the on position) it is dead; doesn't move at all when I start it or throttle up...

I'm going to do the JR test tonight if I get the time, if not then on the weekend.

Thanks for your help!

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: Tach Question...

If a dial exists on the back of the tachometer, it should be set to number six (6).

On a flushette, in neutral, the idle rpmss should be set to:

1000 rpm for a 20" shaft engine.

1200 rpm for a 25" shaft engine.

In the water, the rpms would drop to normal.

 

[ineedacottage]

Re: Tach Question...

If a dial exists on the back of the tachometer, it should be set to number six (6).

On a flushette, in neutral, the idle rpmss should be set to:

1000 rpm for a 20" shaft engine.

1200 rpm for a 25" shaft engine.

In the water, the rpms would drop to normal.

Thanks for your help Joe!

 

[ineedacottage]

Re: Tach Question...

If a dial exists on the back of the tachometer, it should be set to number six (6).

On a flushette, in neutral, the idle rpmss should be set to:

1000 rpm for a 20" shaft engine.

1200 rpm for a 25" shaft engine.

In the water, the rpms would drop to normal.

It's alive! The tach is alive!! When it is connected to the yellow/gray terminal that is.

I tested on the muffs today and as soon as I started cranking the tach started jumping, and when it was running the rpms were about 1200ish. I only ran it about 10 seconds 'cause I get a little nervous running on the muffs from the stories I have heard.

So the only faulty piece that caused my tach to stop working is the gray sending wire from the regulator/rectifier? Since my battery is still charging fine, do I need to worry about replacing the regulator/rectifier?

I just want to confirm that I will not risk damaging anything running this way.

Oh, and how do I know if I have a 20" or a 25" shaft?

I measured the transom height from were the motor is mounted to the bottom of the boat - it measured just shy of 20".

Thanks a lot for all your help guys!!

 

[ineedacottage]

Re: Tach Question...

Any reason I should replace the regulator/rectifier unit if I have a good charge and the tach works off the yellow/gray wire as per Joe Reeves test?

Also how can I tell if I have a 20" or 25" shaft...?

Any and all advice welcome!

Thanks a lot for your help!

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: Tach Question...

Measure from the underside of the engine's transom brackets (the bkt that bolts to the boat and rests on the transom top) to the cavitation plate just above the propeller. The measurement will not be exact but close to one figure or the other.

Now, the question about replacing the regulator/rectifier? Did you overlook the last portion of my remarks in that test that stated...........?

I've found this method to be a quick and efficient way of finding out which component is faulty.... the tachometer or the regulator/rectifier. It sounds drawn out but really only takes a very short time to run through. If the water cooled regulator/rectifier proves to be faulty, don't put off replacing it as they have been known to catch on fire with disastrous consequences.

don't put off replacing it as they have been known to catch on fire with disastrous consequences.

don't put off replacing it as they have been known to catch on fire with disastrous consequences.

Got it?

 

[ineedacottage]

Re: Tach Question...

Measure from the underside of the engine's transom brackets (the bkt that bolts to the boat and rests on the transom top) to the cavitation plate just above the propeller. The measurement will not be exact but close to one figure or the other.

Now, the question about replacing the regulator/rectifier? Did you overlook the last portion of my remarks in that test that stated...........?

I've found this method to be a quick and efficient way of finding out which component is faulty.... the tachometer or the regulator/rectifier. It sounds drawn out but really only takes a very short time to run through. If the water cooled regulator/rectifier proves to be faulty, don't put off replacing it as they have been known to catch on fire with disastrous consequences.

don't put off replacing it as they have been known to catch on fire with disastrous consequences.

don't put off replacing it as they have been known to catch on fire with disastrous consequences.

Got it?

Thanks a lot Joe!

Originally I did read those comments, but I got so focused on the test that I forgot about them...thanks for the reminder though. I will replace it ASAP.

Is replacing the regulator/rectifier simple, or is there something I need to know...? Since it is water cooled are there seals that need replacing or anything like that...?

Thanks a lot for your help! I really appreciate it!

Is this the part I need? (there are a lot of different regulator/rectifiers) Motor Model # CJ90TLCEM:

http://www.iboats.com/mall/partfinder/?*******=909716549&gd_grid_id=63&gd_poid=187638&gd_row=64&**********=927266550

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: Tach Question...

No, I have no idea what that Hyperlink is. You need the following.

Gasket #322858 and the Voltage Regulator/Rectifier Assy #585195

This unit is in the area of $100.00

 

[ineedacottage]

Re: Tach Question...

No, I have no idea what that Hyperlink is. You need the following.

Gasket #322858 and the Voltage Regulator/Rectifier Assy #585195

This unit is in the area of $100.00

Thanks Joe! I found one I can pick up at a marina right by the lake that I am going to tomorrow...but he did not have the gasket - any chance I can re-use the old one? Or is that asking for trouble?

Thanks a lot!

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: Tach Question...

Unlikely you'll be able to use the old one.

 

[ineedacottage]

Re: Tach Question...

Unlikely you'll be able to use the old one.

That's what I figured. Thanks for the confirmation Joe.

Thanks to everyone for their help and thanks for sharing your knowledge...I really appreciate it!