fiber-glass transom repair

Eddie1920

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 21, 2007
Messages
35
Well the other day i took off hard and heard crack at the rear end i stoped to check and sure enough i hade cracked the transom pretty good. it also Made the wood under the fiber glass visable and it is all roded out bad. How Do i go about fixing this. i know what to do i just need to Know How. all the wood needs to be replaced back there and then refiber glassed. thanks
 
Joined
Aug 19, 2004
Messages
56
Re: fiber-glass transom repair

Your going to need to remove EVERYTHING in your way to do this right.Also you should sure up your hull to make sure it doesn't flex as your working and distort your boat.


I used an angle grinder,with a coarse sandpaper disk to erode the glass and wood away from the inside of the transom.
I started at one side of the transom and slowely worked my way all around the edges of the class until I hit solid wood.then I basically, very carefully, tore out the inside layer of glass exposing the wood.
I then ground and pried the wood away from the outer glass transom skin.
Be very careful doing this.. if you cut through the transom it will make for allot more work!
now when I say "grind" I need to be really adamant about grinding..
grinding is with the flat side of a disk not the thin edge. The thin edge is quicker but can cut through rotten wood and fiber glass like a hot knife through butter!
the key here is to take your time,read everything you can and expect this to take some time out of your summer if you plan on doing a good job! You can honestly expect this to take as long as two weeks or more if you never did this before.
It will all go by fast.. just take it one step at a time and don't lose your head.

Now that you have the wood and old glass removed on the inside of your transom, make a template of the outside of your transom or pattern scribe a template on the inside of your transom. Cut and trim as needed but get a tight as possible fit inside as you can.
Then glass your fool heart out!
Thats it in a nutshell, you'll have to do a little trial and error as you go! read, talk and type till you have enough information to take the first few steps, expect it to be hard but be confident! you can do it!
Fiberglass can be shaped and sanded,also layers added and re sanded till you get the desired shape and strength. Removing the material is the hardest part.
 

basser4fun

Recruit
Joined
Aug 5, 2009
Messages
1
Re: fiber-glass transom repair

My stratos has a sign of stress on the bottom of the transom. It is cracked and has about a 1/2 inch break in the fiberglass. What do I do?
 
Joined
Aug 19, 2004
Messages
56
Re: fiber-glass transom repair

is the break on the inside of your boat or outside?
Inside is aesthetically easiest depending on what is in the way.
Check for rot.. most causes of a hull failure aside from strikes, is sub structure wood rot.
so decide what is going on by inspecting the hull carefully... what happened to make the crack? if it's rot, your in for a long job.
What part of the transom cracked? is it below the water line? is it near the corners where the transom meets the rest of the hull? post photo's if you can after your inspection.
Also when you say it's 1/2 inch.. has the material spread apart 1/2" it is that the length of the crack?
be descriptive and post some photo's.
 

jonesg

Admiral
Joined
Feb 22, 2008
Messages
7,198
Re: fiber-glass transom repair

I do a transom a lot easier, faster and with less grinding dust,
basically I don't grind, I cut .

A grinder with a 4 inch steel diamond blade, slit the top of the transom off.

Next, 1 1/4 inch paddle drill bit on an extention drill holes straight down to the bottom.

Chainsaw the rotted wood out, you can do this very safely, it takes all the hard slogging work out of it.

Pour a nida core composite transom in, glass the top and forgetaboutit.

I used seacast on mine but nida core is half the cost.

Video of how to chainsaw the transom guts out in no time.
http://www.transomrepair.com/zk/how-to-pour-seacast-video.shtml
I used an elec chainsaw, there is no danger of cutting thru the glass unless you are stone deaf.
 

VeroWing

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 16, 2009
Messages
150
Re: fiber-glass transom repair

Check link below to see how I am rebuilding my transom. I considered using seacast/nida core pourin type transom filler, but during my research came across a several people that stated that after drying it had a tendency to crack if lower unit hits something solid, or transom part of hull hits the dock, etc..
As I stated above, I came across this info while doing an internet search on these pour-in type of transom repairs, and I have not used it or experienced this myself. I know for me, I only want to do this transom rebuild one time. Mke

http://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=19949
 

jonesg

Admiral
Joined
Feb 22, 2008
Messages
7,198
Re: fiber-glass transom repair

Bah. I've never seen anything that wasn't gossip regarding seacast being weak, lots of opinions and zero experience is all I've seen.

Seacast said one guy tried to make a bracket from it and it broke, he did it wrong. Other than that I have yet to see a single instance of failure.
You could smash wood a lot easier with a sledgehammer than seacast.
 

sho3boater

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 4, 2009
Messages
168
Re: fiber-glass transom repair

It works I've been told, but the performance guys don't like it because it is so heavy. In addition you might have cracked glass you are not repairing, other bad parts of structure. Wood is hard to beat for a core material, it just does not last once it gets wet. On the other hand once you clean that out, all you have to do is take the cap loose or maybe bond it in layers to get the wood in there instead.
 

jonesg

Admiral
Joined
Feb 22, 2008
Messages
7,198
Re: fiber-glass transom repair

You'll get no argument here , wood is great for transoms.
Just sayin the pour-in is another option, plus no future rot.

If the outter transom glass is cracked, it often is , the seacast bonds to it like any resin does and fixes it. Theres no need for a seperate internal patch. No need to remove every scrap of old wood, no need to grind down to new glass. No need to pop the cap, it costs a lot more than wood but its a lot quicker to do, 2 hrs once the old wood is out.

ACtually, if you use epoxy with the wood the cost starts to creep up there too.
 
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