Tansom modifications for outboard

[Monterey 1900]

I had it with my 1989 19' Monterrey with a Sterndrive problems since I got it.

I am thinking on getting rid of the I/O and get me an outboard (of course will have to modify the transom) and that where the question comes:

I had rebuilt the transom with SEACAST (composite replacement) two years ago making it more sturdy and reliable than wood (so I had been told)

Can I (1) remove the sterndrive (2) patch the hole with SEACAST (3) cut the upper center transom area to mount the outboard at its appropiate level?

Will the transom carry the outboard weight since the manufacturer made it Sterndrive? Thinking on replacing my 3.0L with a 115hp 2 cycle outboard.

Want to avoid attaching an outboard extension because otherwise my boat will exceed 22' total lenght and wont fit in my garage.

Please advise...

 

[Bondo]

Re: Tansom modifications for outboard

I Donno,.........
I think I'd want alittle more than Seacast holding My boat,+ motor Together.............

 

[iwombat]

Re: Tansom modifications for outboard

When you make a sterndrive, the transom is there primarily to keep water out. The load bearing structure is right under the engine. This is not the case for an outboard transom.

You'd probably need to do some work to structurally tie the transom into the stringers, then make sure your transom is up to the task. Might be a lot of work. Then again, the manufacturer may have made a pretty sturdy transom. Pictures of how it's tied in would help.

 

[Chris1956]

Re: Tansom modifications for outboard

Monterray, I would be surprized if the design of the transom/stringers is too much different from an outboard design. I say this because a lot of manufacturers make both sterndrive and outboard models from the same mold. They then bolt on an outboard bracket, or cut out the I/O hole, depending on the customer's order. Obviously you need to see if the transom is tied into the stringers, as well as the floor (important).

I would use a biscuit joiner to attach a solid lumber piece to fill the I/O hole, fairing everything with thickened epoxy and saturated glass cloth, and then laminate(glass cloth/mat+resin) a 3/4 piece of plywood on the inside to convert it to an outboard design. I would then tie the new transom to the floor and any stringers you can find, especially the ones that the motor was attached to. Lay some glass on the outside of the transom, and I think you are there. Oh yeah, Use epoxy everywhere.

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: Tansom modifications for outboard

most of these conversion are unfruitful. i rarely here of anyone happy afterwards.

 

[rebuilt]

Re: Tansom modifications for outboard

As I was studying the option of going I/O, I looked at a LOT of different setups. I found that the most popular option among converters-marinas, is to bracket the outboard. I saw a nicely bracketed conversion on the coast about a month ago. But it was no backyard project. The brackets were professionally made-and looked it, and professionally installed-and looked it. The bracket suspends the outboard well aft of the transom. The one I saw had a 175 hanging on it. It looked sharp. I'm kinda new at this thing myself, but I don't think I'd like the idea of butchering up my transom. KR

 

[Monterey 1900]

Re: Tansom modifications for outboard

Thanks for your output. In fact I have pics I can send you as I saw the whole rebuilt transom/stringers process with Seacast. Stringers are well tied to the transom by means of a 2x6x16 mold of Seacast. Covering the I/O hole will definitelly be with Seacast to make it uniform as material goes.
Will like to send pics for your output but I dont know how to attach to this message. Maybe I can send you an email with the attach pics.
My concern now is if I have to reinforcce the transom and if the I/O conversion to Outboard is worth the extra work.
Please advise...