Lower unit

[OhWellcraft]

Hello to all,

I have a 83 evinrude 200 hp. model #E200TRLCTD. Took the boat out on Sun to make sure everything is okay as I am headed to Lake Powell this weekend. Seems to be running fine, got home and thought I might check gear lube in lower unit. To my dissapointment there seems to be a slight bit of water in the lube. There can't be much because almost the exact same amount of lube came out as I put in a month ago when I replaced the water pump. I put new o-rings on the drain and fill screws when I filled it. My question is how much is involved in replacing the prop shaft seal only for now then when I return I will have the lower unit re-sealed by a mechanic. I am quite mechanical and have two manuals but just don't feel like I have the knowledge or the tools to tear down a lower unit . I thought I might try to replace the prop shaft seal if it is as easy as it looks to be but neither of my manuals covers this only. The mention is made after the carrier etc. is already removed. Can a person grab on to it with some needle nose pliers and pull it out then replace it, or is it locked in there some how? Also do you think I could replace the lube 2 or 3 times through the week and be okay? I know that isn't the right way but I can't just cancel with less than a week till we leave.. Any thoughts or advice would be GREATLY appreciated. As always thanks to all on this great site. Brendon

 

[ezeke]

Re: Lower unit

The prop shaft seal may be bad, but I would not bet on it. The way to find out is to empty the gearcase and do a pressure test using the vent plug hole as an inlet. 10-12 psi should be plenty. If the leak is not obvious, submerge the unit and look for bubbles. Most of my leaks have been on the driveshaft and shift rod.

 

[OhWellcraft]

Re: Lower unit

Can the prop shaft seal be replaced from the outside or do things have to be taken apart to replace it?

 

[ezeke]

Re: Lower unit

There are two outer seals on the prop shaft, installed back to back. I have replaced the outer one on a V6 looper drive. It was tedious, but it stopped the leak. I would not have gone further without pulling the unit.

 

[OhWellcraft]

Re: Lower unit

Thanks Ezeke much appreciated.

Are you speaking of the seal you can see when the prop and thrust washer are removed it sits about 1/2" behind the thrust washer? Or are the back to back ones deeper inside the unit? Also are the shift rod and driveshaft seals accessable from the top if the lu is off I just replaced the pump with the oem improved kit but I am assuming the ones you are speaking of are under what can be seen from a simple pump change out. Do you think I would be crazy to still go on my trip to Powell and change the lube every other day while there. It isn't getting hardly any water in it, not enough to have water run out then milky lube. Its more like the lube is slightly milky. As I stated before I know it needs to be repaired but no way to get it done by the weekend. NO ONE here in Salt lake works on older outboards, there is one place that " I think we could do it but we don't really like that older stuff and we are at least a month out" I wasn't real confident after our phone conversation plus that shop is more than fifty miles away. Thanks for your imput and help... Brendon

 

[HighTrim]

Re: Lower unit

Your gonna have a hard time gettin sum1 to tell you its ok to go out, no one will want to be responsible if something DOES happen, good chance you ll be ok, but only you can make that decision right. This might help with the pressure test when you get back

To pressure/vacuum test a lower unit:
a) drain the gear oil
b) use an appropriate adapter with a gauge tee'd in to apply pressure or vacuum. No more than 15 psig for pressure. You can use a bicycle pump or any other compressed air source for pressure. For vacuum, you need a vacuum pump.
c) LU should retain some pressure or vacuum for 45 minutes minimum.
d) If pressure doesn't hold, submerge LU in water to find leak source [possibilities: drive shaft seal, prop shaft seal(s) (usually two), shift shaft seal and the fill/drain screw washers.]
e) replace offending seal(s) as required.

 

[OhWellcraft]

Re: Lower unit

Thanks to all,

High Trim you are exactly right with your answer I knew before I posted that it was a dumb question to ask of anyone so sorry bout that. I guess a little of it is the frustration of it all. I don't mind paying anyone to do work on my boat, marine anything is expensive and I realize that full well. But $600.00 seems high to me and that was from the only place I could find within 100 miles of me and they are a month out at least. I might try to buy the required tools and attempt it myself. Thanks to everyone for all the help you have given.