90 Hp Puddle Valve

[eedwards]

I was going to check my puddle valve on my '75 90 hp, but i cant seem to figure it out.
So I'm wondering is my '75 old enough that it just dumps the excess fuel into the water?

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: 90 Hp Puddle Valve

On the starboard side of the engine, just aft of the crankcase parting line you will see a long flat ribbed plate connecting all three bypasses. at the bottom of this plate is a fitting with a black hose that will go back to the manifold between #1 and #2 carbs. Fuel and oil drained from all three cylinders is returned there. Inside that flat plate (held on with 6 screws) there will be three (one for each bypass) one way reed valves so that excess oil can only exit. At the bottom of the air cover, there will be a fitting and a matching fitting with a metered orifice will be on the bottom of the manifold. They are connected with a short black hose. This returns fuel and oil spit back through the carbs to the system.

 

[eedwards]

Re: 90 Hp Puddle Valve

On the starboard side of the engine, just aft of the crankcase parting line you will see a long flat ribbed plate connecting all three bypasses. at the bottom of this plate is a fitting with a black hose that will go back to the manifold between #1 and #2 carbs. Fuel and oil drained from all three cylinders is returned there. Inside that flat plate (held on with 6 screws) there will be three (one for each bypass) one way reed valves so that excess oil can only exit. At the bottom of the air cover, there will be a fitting and a matching fitting with a metered orifice will be on the bottom of the manifold. They are connected with a short black hose. This returns fuel and oil spit back through the carbs to the system.

Thanks Frank.

I didn't think i had it because i was looking at a diagram to get part numbers for the screens and gaskets and didn't see any.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: 90 Hp Puddle Valve

It's actually two plates and the gaskets almost always tear apart when they are removed from the engine. If you separate the top plate from the lower, you will see the three reed valves. The stops should allow these valves to only open .010 from their seats. This is a case where more is not better.

If you separate the lower plate from the engine you will (may) see three screens. ( someone may have removed them) If you remove these screens, you will see the metered orifices. The screens keep them from clogging. The screens can be cleaned and do not necessarily need to be replaced with new. You can also run without any screens but if a sizeable chunk of dirt, metal, or goo gets into them, it will clog the orifices. This puddle valve system is there solely to improve the idling of the engine and a clogged one will not hamper high speed performance. So: Then if the idle gets unreliable, you need to remove the plate and clean the holes.

The gaskets are relatively simple and can be made by anyone with a razor knife and a childs hole punch to punch the holes for the 1/4 X 20 screws.

 

[eedwards]

Re: 90 Hp Puddle Valve

If you remove these screens, you will see the metered orifices. The screens keep them from clogging. The screens can be cleaned and do not necessarily need to be replaced with new. You can also run without any screens but if a sizeable chunk of dirt, metal, or goo gets into them, it will clog the orifices. This puddle valve system is there solely to improve the idling of the engine and a clogged one will not hamper high speed performance. So: Then if the idle gets unreliable, you need to remove the plate and clean the holes

Mine idles fine just likes to die when i shift from forward to reverse which is a pain when you are trying to dock.
And i almost always have wake board boats zipping by 10 feet from my dock while I'm trying to.

 

[Daphne444]

Re: 90 Hp Puddle Valve

Frank,

I have the same problem as eedwards with the stalling going into gear. While trying to track it down the other day I see that my return hose is not connected to the bottom of the air cover (the elbow fitting has stripped out and is just laying there). My 90hp also idles just fine, only the stalling problem when going into gear.

Do you think that this disconnected return hose could be part of that problem?

Thanks

 

[Nate3172]

Re: 90 Hp Puddle Valve

Daphne, that return hose that goes to your airbox is not part of the fuel recirculation system that is being discussed in this thread unfortunately. The hose that you are referring to on your engine is to draw any fuel that happens to leak into the airebox and put it back into the intake. Fuel will normally drain from the carburetors into the airbox when the engine is raised up into the tow position and will puddle there. I don't think this hose is what is causing problems with your engine stalling when being put in gear for I completely disconnected mine and it has not made any difference with the way my engine runs. I recommend checking your idle rpm and making sure it is within spec. Also, it might need to have the carb/s tuned. Oil mixture, if not mixed properly, can also have a big effect on the way the engine will run.

 

[Nate3172]

Re: 90 Hp Puddle Valve

Also wanted to note on here. In regards to the fuel recirculation system (puddle valves), it is also important to check that the reeds themselves are still seating properly. If not, this can draw fuel from the carburetor side and therefore the recirc. system will be completely ineffective. The easy way to do this is to remove the return hose that comes from the reed plate at the carb side. Blow back through it. If you can, than the reed/s are not seating and should be replaced. I had some idle issues with my 85hp and replaced these reeds because they were faulty and it has made a substantial difference in the way my engine runs now. It also cured my poor throttle response.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: 90 Hp Puddle Valve

Daphne: that hose on the bottom of the airbox is connected to a METERED orifice on the bottom of the manifold so it will essentially draw the same with fuel puddled in the airbox or if it is dry. If you were to unscrew the fitting, you would see that although the fitting is the same size as the others, the hole in it is much smaller. Disconnecting the hose makes no difference in this case.

 

[Daphne444]

Re: 90 Hp Puddle Valve

Frank and Nate - Thanks for the clarification and info. I'm still early in the learning process and the stuff I learn here on the boards is invaluable.

 

[eedwards]

Re: 90 Hp Puddle Valve

Also wanted to note on here. In regards to the fuel recirculation system (puddle valves), it is also important to check that the reeds themselves are still seating properly. If not, this can draw fuel from the carburetor side and therefore the recirc. system will be completely ineffective. The easy way to do this is to remove the return hose that comes from the reed plate at the carb side. Blow back through it. If you can, than the reed/s are not seating and should be replaced. I had some idle issues with my 85hp and replaced these reeds because they were faulty and it has made a substantial difference in the way my engine runs now. It also cured my poor throttle response.

Can you get to and adjust the reeds by taking off that plate?

 

[Nate3172]

Re: 90 Hp Puddle Valve

eedwards, you will see the reeds when you remove the plate. Unless your model does not have the reeds and it is using check valves. If you have only one nipple in the fuel recirc. plate at the bottom cylinder than you have reeds. If there is a series of fittings (3) that are on the plate than you should have check valves. If you have reeds they are not adjustable. You will need to replace them if they are bad. They are cheap anyway, under 20$. The shipping cost me more than the parts believe it or not. But that was because they shipped from Florida to me here in Washington and I wanted them right away.