Re: 76' 85hp chrysler force wont run!
OK! Points engine. Couple of things to check. A lot of things on these engines are inter-related and each can affect the other so we must start somewhere. For the time being, let's disregard fuel and compression. 90 is a little low but adequate to have a reasonably running engine.
If the timing is set to factory specs, then if fuel is ok, the engine MUST start and run. First, look at the timing pointer in front of the flywheel. Do the two screws that hold it to the block appear untouched? If the pointer has been moved, the paint on the screws and around the slots in the pointer will be damaged. If it appears to be in original position, we can ASSUME for now that the pointer is set to TDC when the flywheel is at TDC.
If the pointer has been moved, then check it at TDC by probing the piston with a screwdriver as you turn the flywheel by hand. You will need to rock it a little at TDC and you will need to develop a "feel for it at TDC. If the pointer is off, reset it so that the long line on the pointer is at the 0 on the flywheel when the piston is at TDC. At TDC, check to see that the curved line on the distributor pulley matches the curve of the flywheel and the center line points directly at the flywheel. Check the tension on the distributor belt. A .010 feeler gauge pointed like a finger into the center of the belt should deflect the belt 1/8 to 3/16 inch before bending.
Next, check and reset the points to .014 open at the top of a lobe. Even though the points are only a signaling device for the CD box, and will work over a wide variety of openings, anything different than .014 changes the timing.
Now we are going to get complicated! At the top of the linkage tower there are two black plastic fittings connecting the tower to the distributor. Loosen the locknut and set the distance between them to about 1/2 inch. Snug the locknut. Down near the bottom of the tower where the carb cam attaches, loosen the locknut on the idle screw and set that screw about halfway. (equal amounts of thread on either side of the lever.) Snug the nut so it doesn't accidentally move.
Disconnect the ball joint on the rod that moves the carb cam and move the cam out of the way. Now, loosen the screws on the connector bar for the three carbs. with all three carbs closed, re-tighten the screws.
Now re-attach the ball joint first setting the rod length so that the single line on the cam is in line with the black roller on the carb arm. If there are two lines on the cam, center the roller between them. The roller is on an eccentric screw. Loosen the nut and turn the screw until the roller just touches the cam. Now, tighten everything and set the throttle lever to full throttle. look in the carbs to see if the butterflies are horizontal or close to it--they don't need to be perfect. If they are not, adjust the cam rod until they are. We have now sort of synchronized the carbs to the timing. More happens later.
Your engine can be static timed. With all the plugs removed and grounded, and with the ignition key on, put the throttle into full forward and slowly rotate the flywheel clockwise by hand. As it comes up to the line on the flywheel getting close to the pointer go very slowly. Now, your pointer may have a long line with 4 lines to the left of it or it may have a long line with other lines marked 2 and 4. The long line is 36 degrees before TDC when the flywheel line matches it. Timing on your engine is 32 degrees before TDC so you must adjust the screw between the two black plastic fittings so that you get a spark on the top plug either 4 lines past the long line or at the line marked 4. Rock the flywheel a small amount and you should get a consistant spark. When timing is correct, the fittings should be somewhere close to 1/2 inch apart. If they are not, then you have adjusted somthing incorrectly.
Tapping the distributor belt with your finger should move the points enough to make the plug spark with each tap. If you get a constant spark that just sounds like zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz, then the CD box is bad. You should get single discrete sparks as you tap the belt or rock the flywheel.
Now, put the throttle back into neutral, install the plugs, fuel up, and try to start the engine. Remember to pull out the chrome knob on the control box and push the handle forward into fast idle position.
Once the engine has started and is warm, the screw on the tower is used to adjust idle to around 1,000 in neutral in the driveway but should be re-set to 700-750 on the water in forward gear. Note that proper idle will not necessarily have the carb cam line on the roller and timing may not be at 0 degrees.
At this point, the timing is set and the timing and carbs are synchronized so if the engine just will not start, then we need to go through the whole fuel system and the CD box, coil, and wiring needs to be checked.
Let us know how you made out.
