How to test cooling system force ldrive 90

jeff9377

Recruit
Joined
Oct 17, 2007
Messages
4
I have a 1990 bayliner with an L drive 90hp motor. I am not sure if the cooling sytem is working or not. There is what looks like a exit at the back of the boat above the water line but no water comes out. I just bought the boat and was running it for about 2 hours with no problems. How can I check if the water is circulating?
 

contractorguy

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 13, 2007
Messages
116
Re: How to test cooling system force ldrive 90

2 hours without overheat, I think your OK. The water should come out with the exhaust through the prop (and/or snout on trim fin).

Just don't run it without the muffs (or in a barrel)... It doesn't take long to cook the impeller when dry.
 

jeff9377

Recruit
Joined
Oct 17, 2007
Messages
4
Re: How to test cooling system force ldrive 90

That's what I thought. I am not sure if I have a overheating buzzer or not but If the pump was not working I am pretty sure I would have cooked the engine in 2 hours. Just to be on the safe side would it be ok to remove the thernostat houseing and start the motor for a few seconds just to make sure the water is circulateing.
Thanks for your help.
 

contractorguy

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 13, 2007
Messages
116
Re: How to test cooling system force ldrive 90

Yeah... good idea. Also, search for a recent thread here about installing a 'telltale'. That would always let you know....ot sure how you'd do it w/ the inboard powerhead.
 

newbie4life

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 19, 2007
Messages
410
Re: How to test cooling system force ldrive 90

2 hours???? You're good.

Don't worry. It would definately let you know by then -- Mine overheated and siezed solid within 2 minutes. My no-brother-good-in-law installed a watertemp gauge too, after he rebuilt the engine.
 

jeff9377

Recruit
Joined
Oct 17, 2007
Messages
4
Re: How to test cooling system force ldrive 90

All I did was removed one bolt from the thernostat housing and the water pumped out the hole. Easy way of testing the unit. The only problem is I had the boat trimed to high in rough water and bent the u joint drive shaft which in return blew out all the housing around it, broke the gears and drive shaft in my lower unit (which I rebuild in 2004)and I am hopeing I did not brake or strip the threads on the shaft coming out of the motor because that would mean I also need a new crank shaft as well. Oh well guess I should have spent the extra $3500 dollars to by the 2000 bayliner with a 5.0 gmc motor,
 
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