Newbee with 1958 ev 18hp fastwin

[lawnsplus]

Hello, I have been lurking and reading everything I can about this engine and tank system. I inherited this motor that has always been garage kept and has probably less than 50 hrs. total run time. The last time that it was used was 1993, date of boat register. When I first tried to crank the engine, it would hit and thats all. After many hours and probably days, if I had kept up with the hours, I now have tank where it works. It is a 6 gallon tank and I spent 230 dollars in parts alone to get it to where it is. Everything was gummed up really bad. I even had to buy a new pick up line for the tank ($$$$$). Now that I have gas to the engine, it would hit and backfired one time. Removed carb and cleaned really good, I am in no hurry at all. I got the carb kit and impellar kit yesterday and will install tomorrow. The only thing about the kit that I do not understand is the packing that goes on the high and low speed jets. The directions call for 1 packing and 1 packing washer to go on each. All that came with the kit is packing rings made of a redish brown composite material, not o rings. I guess that I will put 2 of these packing washers on each jet since I do not live close to a dealer.

 

[K.B]

Re: Newbee with 1958 ev 18hp fastwin

Good eve lawnplus!

I have one of these w/ elec. start. Best I can remember on the jets, I used a teflon type "rope" as I could not find the "correct" packing material. You will need something of this nature too use BEFORE you put the washers in. Someone else may know where to get the correct packing rope, but mine has never given me any trouble in ten yrs. service.

 

[samo_ott]

Re: Newbee with 1958 ev 18hp fastwin

I have a '58 Fastwin and a '58 Johnson 18hp. Yes, clean out the old packing (and get it all!) and put put 2 around each needle. And they are reddish brown wax type washer thingy's... they're all pretty much the same...

As for other issues... Have you checked the compression for a baseline? And then have you checked the coils? If they're original, they're toast and need replacing. Other than that you're doing the rest, impeller and carb kit... Then it'll purr (assuming good compression)

 

[wbeaton]

Re: Newbee with 1958 ev 18hp fastwin

Ditto, samo.

Just use two of the red packing washers. That's all I do and I haven't had a rebuild fail, yet.

Check those coils.

 

[steelespike]

Re: Newbee with 1958 ev 18hp fastwin

Most likely you will need to replace the coils.Give them a look.If they are chalky and cracked out they go.Readily available at many places including here at iboats.

 

[samo_ott]

Re: Newbee with 1958 ev 18hp fastwin

p.s. and stop lurking and join in the conversations

 

[hammerhandle]

Re: Newbee with 1958 ev 18hp fastwin

Great motor !! rebuilding might be expensive but when your done you will have an excellent running motor and be less expensive than a new one.enjoy your project.

 

[lawnsplus]

Re: Newbee with 1958 ev 18hp fastwin

Thanks for all the responses. I did take off the recoil starter unit and the inspection/adjust plate and the coils are bright green and black. I do not plan to remove the flywheel until I see if it starts after the carb rebuild and check the points. I will definitely order a manual for this engine. I hate not having a manual for the toys. I just bought a 07 suzuki bike and had to spend another 100 dollars for a manual. Usually when you spent that much money they would supply the manual at no cost. I had a commercial lawn care business and recently sold out so I am pretty familiar with these 2 strokers. I actually took the engine to a repair shop about 30 miles from home and never dropped it off. After reading these post, I decided to do it myself, much more gradification this way. Thanks again, I am sure that help will be needed before this old engine goes fishing next spring.

 

[jbjennings]

Re: Newbee with 1958 ev 18hp fastwin

Do yourself a favor, spend the 50 bucks it'll cost 'ya to get new coils, condensors, and points. Also, think about a lower unit seal kit (about $30 more). After the carb kit, the coils, and the lower unit seals and impeller, you can kick back and worry about the fish and forget that motor.......and your buddies will wonder why they have 3000 tied up in their motors while you are runnin' that super sharp fastwin. I just did the same mentioned above to my '58 fastwin and tested it today. My 21 yr. old nephew got to run it and he was ASTONISHED at how easy it cranked and how fast it ran (26mph). You will LOVE that motor, I think it's one of the best small outboards ever built. How 'bout posting a running pic of it when you finish it?
Good luck,
JBJ

P.S., if you've been lurking long you probably know how knowledgeable (and money conscious) the previous guys are that posted on your thread--take their advice and you can't go wrong.

 

[wbeaton]

Re: Newbee with 1958 ev 18hp fastwin

Your coils have been replaced and are probably fine.

 

[lawnsplus]

Re: Newbee with 1958 ev 18hp fastwin

I also noticed that the screw heads show signs of removal at the intake manifold (I hope that is actually what it is). When I look in the hole where the carb goes, I see some holes with dark material behind them. I am assuming that these are the reeds. I know that Dad had some work done to it a long time ago, but living in another state, I cannot say for sure what all was done. I actually learned how to ski behind this boat and motor so it does need some TLC.

 

[lawnsplus]

Re: Newbee with 1958 ev 18hp fastwin

Got the garb back on and running. Needs some carb adjusting later after the impellar gets replaced. I did notice some fuel build up in the high speed adjustment knob and finally got that fixed, kept tightening packing nut until it stopped. I know that on newer model engines, you should keep the vent cap on the fuel tank loose so that it can breath, but is that true with 2 line pressure tanks. Baby boomers tend not to remember that far back. To remember something, first we have to forget something. I think that I remember that we use to loosen the fill cap at the end of a day of playing to release the built up pressure. Got manual on the way and will wait on it to arrive before other adventures are started. Thanks

 

[samo_ott]

Re: Newbee with 1958 ev 18hp fastwin

Correct, the 2 line pressure tank needs pressure inside to work. The lid must stay tight when running. Open it up and it'll die. When docked at the end of the day though I always crack it open and let the pressure out. This will also stop the uneducated from stealing the boat unless they tighten the cap! But then that's the beauty of old engines... Nobody wants to steal em anyway!

And yes, the modern tanks (single line) usually have a vent screw on the cap that must stay open and clear to allow air in to replace the used up fuel or it will also die due to a vacuum build up in the tank.

 

[lawnsplus]

Re: Newbee with 1958 ev 18hp fastwin

Many thanks, I unscrewed the fill cap yesterday and heard the tank bleed off the pressure.

 

[K.B]

Re: Newbee with 1958 ev 18hp fastwin

Well, as usual on this forum, you have gotten more feedback on your carb situation than you probably thought you would get! Great folks and looks like I now know what to do next time I redo mine. As they all said, GREAT running engine. Little gas and lots of fun!!

 

[lawnsplus]

Re: Newbee with 1958 ev 18hp fastwin

Can't wait until my manual arrives, several things still to do and I want to make sure that I do it wright. I hate to tear something down without a manual or support from a great web site like this one .

 

[lawnsplus]

Re: Newbee with 1958 ev 18hp fastwin

Okay, motor runs and starts easily and pumps a lot of water in the barrel at home. I had hood removed and while watching the engine run, I noticed the flywheel seems to walk or wobble. I had a 3/4 in. wrench that I was using to check the color of the plugs and I just laid one end of wrench on top of flywheel while engine was running at idle and the wrench bounces up and down. I have looked in my new manual and have not found whatever it is I am looking for in reference to the flywheel. Removed recoil starter and I could find nothing wrong, thread count above nut is 3 showing. I don't want to hurt the engine and need to know if this is normal. Thanks

 

[K.B]

Re: Newbee with 1958 ev 18hp fastwin

I ran into this on my 40 hp. Unfortunately, I do not know what cured it. I did the mechanics "no-no". I did 2 things at one time so I don't know what the cure was. And I used to be an engin. tech. HA!
I did not check the torgue reading on my flywheel as it was wobbling as you have stated. It ran fine, but sure was scary looking! That winter, I pulled it and put in new coils, wires, condensors, etc. At the same time, without trying the same flywheel, I put another one on from another engine, torqued it to spec., and the wobble is gone. That was dumb! Don't know now what it was.
Check your torque FIRST! Then try it. THEN see if you need another f'wheel. (I didn't look for one, I just HAD one).

 

[samo_ott]

Re: Newbee with 1958 ev 18hp fastwin

Wow, it's rare the flywheel goes but it does happen.

 

[lawnsplus]

Re: Newbee with 1958 ev 18hp fastwin

Time to pull it. I do not see the 3 pattern puller bolts that the manual shows, so I will need to borrow bearing puller to get her off. All parts under flywheel as seen through adjustment plate appear to be new. Maybe something is under fly wheel to make it wobble. What are all the hex bolts around the o.d. of flywheel for? I looked for stress cracks near adjustment plate and saw none. Scratches on bottom of recoil starter housing are seen where the flywheel is scratching on the high side of rotation.