Im no engine guru so but even I think that I am going to have to replace all of this. What do yo experts think? I am certain that this is the cause of my water in the engine.
Hey Rick. I removed the other side valve cover and it is clean as a whistle. I have kind of traced the water entrance to the breather above the baffle. That is where the majority of the rust and grime was concentrated. Plus the gaskets were rubber and as brittle as as peanut brittle. I cleaned everything real good and used compressed air and the shop vac to blow/suck out as much of the gunk as possible. Then I took a toothbrush soaked in engine cleaner and scrub thje entire surface of all the springs and so forth. Wiped it all down and then used another toothbrush soaked in oil to put a thin coating of lubricant on everything until I get the new valve covers installed.
My next project is to drop the oil pan and clean all of the gunk out of there and the pump.
Here is a pic of the head and springs after cleanong everything before brushing on the oil.
That was the idea Rick. I am trying for now to find the source of the water (think I have that part covered). Then I plan on buttoning it all up and running it for a minimum of 6 hours on the hose. Afterwards, if there is no sign of any new water contamination I want to have it rebuilt. If I still find water then I will just invest in a New SB.
Well I ran the engine today on the hose and after about three hours I checked the dipstick and I could see on the very tip of the stick signs of water. If you weren't looking for it you wouldn't notice it at all. It could be residual contamination from before I cleaned everything out and refilled the crankcase but I am not betting on it. The mans/risers all tested fine so I have to now lean towards the heads or a blown head gasket. I will check the compression in each cylinder tomorrow and post my results for you alls analysis.
If you're looking at the engine from the front, the left side is producing all of the white smoke/steam you see in the video link above and the right side is producing very little. But the reverse is true for water expulsion. The right side exhaust tube is expelling the most water and the left exhaust tube is expelling considerably less. Does that mean anything special?
I changed all your pictures to just links. They were so big, you had to scroll side to side to read the threads. Resizeing them to fit would be my suggestion.
To your engine, what rpm was the engine running in the video. Without sound it really doesn't say much. You may have a dead miss. Hard to say.
Have you pressurized the blocks cooling system to see if there is a leak?
Thanks Don. The engine was at idle, I didn't have a gauge attached but it usually idles in the boat at 900-1100 rpm. I took someone elase suggestion here and pressure tested the block earlier and it didn't show any signs of leakage as well as the manifolds. I have a camcorder w/ sound but no way to convert it to download onto the computer. I will see what I can find while out shopping tmw.
That is way to fast for idle, should be around 650 (in fwd gear) in the water. Which will probably be about 700 to 750 in neutral. With what you have you will be loosing your outdrive shortly.
Atleast you found the milk shake oil. If left in there and the engien is run it kills the cam, cam bearings, crank journals, main bearings, rod bearings, cylinder wall wear and scorring and piston ring wear and scoring.
Hey Don S, I finished the compression test and the results are in. Please tell me what it all means. #2 = 105, #4 = 105, #6 = 110, #8 = 100,
#1 = 120, #3 = 120, #5 = 115, and #7 = 120.
Re: Another water in oil thread........UPDATED w/ sound
Re: Another water in oil thread........UPDATED w/ sound
I ran the engine again today to get it hot so I can redo the compression test. I also used my daughters camera which has sound. The compression on a hot motor wasn't much different. #2 = 100, #4 = 110, #6 = 110, #8 = 100. I can say this, the compression gauge doesn't jump to thiose numbers but rather builds up to those figures with each crank usually taking 5 turns of the engine to get thses numbers.
The 1st video is before the engine had reached operating temp. The 2nd video is after the engine had ran for about 1 hour.
It really doesn't sound that bad but it's REALLY hard to tell via the audio from a video. It sounds like it is running on all 8 though.
How hot did the engine get?
If it only gets to about 140-160 any residual water in the engine won't really all evaporate out in a hour... You would want to run it at a cruise setting for a couple of hours or more to be sure I would think.
With the rubber parts removed and the hose connected you ought to be able to put a hotter thermostat in it and run it hotter. You really want the oil hot to get rid of the residual water. I just think it's pretty hard to do running at unloaded 1000 rpm or less.
Ensure that you're doing the comp check with the throttle at wide open...
Those number are somewhat low I would think (although I don't know what's right for a SBC, my 460 did 150-165psi on all 8 cyls.....and that was with a seriously FLAT camshaft!!)
I'll also add that when I did the comps on my old 66 Mark Twain (150 Mercruiser) The comps were around 110-120 on all 6 cyls....and the engine had never been touched.
it sounds to me like your marinizing an automotive engine, do you know what size the cam and lift you have in this? I m no pro by any means but I recall reading here if you have too much lift it will allow the motor to take in water.
it sounds to me like your marinizing an automotive engine, do you know what size the cam and lift you have in this? I m no pro by any means but I recall reading here if you have too much lift it will allow the motor to take in water.
