checking reed valves

[Ranger 330V]

when I do the carbs I would like to check out the reed valves and see the condition. What should I look for?? Anything the manual doesn't cover?? What about tolerances?? Any tell tale signs of problems that I should look for while in there?? Also if I need to change...for bass boat usage...would boysen reeds help anything?? Or stick with stock?? boysen reeds will increase topend...is this right?? I think I read that. Thanks!

 

[guy74]

Re: checking reed valves

The main thing that boyeson reeds did for my motor was give it more torque at the bottom, and a smoother idle. Maybe just a little more at the top end.

 

[guy74]

Re: checking reed valves

One thing I almost forgot, if you plan on putting in boyeson reeds you need to richen up the idle jetting by going down 5 sizes on the idle air bleeds. Somthing to think about when you are rebuilding the carbs.

 

[wilde1j]

Re: checking reed valves

Reeds should be close to or in contact with the reed plate; nothing critical critical here, just not bent or broken. BTW, reeds almost never need replacement. Don't expect miracles from a replacement with Boyeson reeds and they are more subject to breakage, especially if a motor ever "sneezes".

 

[F_R]

Re: checking reed valves

Agreeing with wilde1, today's reeds are extremely trouble free. The main thing that goes wrong with them is people messing with them. Unless there is a dirt dauber nest in there, leave them alone. Never bend them or the stops. If they hang open enough to show daylight under them that is OK. As I remember, .010" max is allowed. Heck, I haven't seen a bad reed for 40 years, unless something got in them.

 

[LubeDude]

Re: checking reed valves

It appears to me that the aluminum reed cages wear and cause more problems than the actual reeds themselves. My old 86 150 Merc had reed type symptoms and when I took them out I found the cages to be quite worn. I blocked them flat and put a newer set of stock reeds back in and the problem was solved.

 

[jwilkey84]

Re: checking reed valves

I have a merc 500, probably in the late 70's and I bought it from a guy for parts who told me that it needed new reed valves. He said he knew this because the carbs puked gas. He is kindofa redneck guy, is he filling me full of crap? Would bad reed valves make the carbs puke gas out? What is more likely the real problem? He said prior to the gas puking the motor worked great.

 

[flabum]

Re: checking reed valves

I have a merc 500, probably in the late 70's and I bought it from a guy for parts who told me that it needed new reed valves. He said he knew this because the carbs puked gas. He is kindofa redneck guy, is he filling me full of crap? Would bad reed valves make the carbs puke gas out? What is more likely the real problem? He said prior to the gas puking the motor worked great.

You should start a new thread for this,,,,,, but yes.... reeds will make you "puke" gas..... so would a pizza with anchovi's


and what's so bad about rednecks?

 

[Ranger 330V]

Re: checking reed valves

I know mine would do that when it would backfire...previous owner had swaped the coil wires coming from the powerpack....wouldn't run, timing and sync were also bad out. I would do a link and sync and make for sure your timing was right...if your timing is off to much it can blow gas back out through the carbs. I don't really know anything about reed valves but they open and close the intake side of the engine. Are you getting a backfire or anything of that nature? Seems to me if you were having reed problems of that nature you could also get a backfire through carb also. I know the pros will chime in...but I would at list check the link and sync and timing before I decided to just blame it on reeds.

 

[flabum]

Re: checking reed valves

I know mine would do that when it would backfire...previous owner had swaped the coil wires coming from the powerpack....wouldn't run, timing and sync were also bad out. I would do a link and sync and make for sure your timing was right...if your timing is off to much it can blow gas back out through the carbs. I don't really know anything about reed valves but they open and close the intake side of the engine. Are you getting a backfire or anything of that nature? Seems to me if you were having reed problems of that nature you could also get a backfire through carb also. I know the pros will chime in...but I would at list check the link and sync and timing before I decided to just blame it on reeds.

Bad reeds will make fuel spit out the carbs.... in a mean manner. A very small amount of fuel spit is normal, but an actual backfire or spray of fuel indicates a reed valve problem. Reeds open on vacuum, and close almost immediately on positive pressure. If you have more than a few droplets of fuel spraying out of any carb, you have a bad reed valve. A good, tight reed won't spray any fuel.
Ranger is right.... check all the basics first.

 

[Ranger 330V]

Re: checking reed valves

I should've been more specific....mine wouldn't spit...when it would die after a backfire fuel would drain out of the necks...not spit....I wasn't very specific on that...sorry. That was the best description in easy terms of how reed valves work I've ever heard...lol. Thanks.

 

[mc8]

Re: checking reed valves

I should've been more specific....mine wouldn't spit...when it would die after a backfire fuel would drain out of the necks...not spit....I wasn't very specific on that...sorry. That was the best description in easy terms of how reed valves work I've ever heard...lol. Thanks.

Old thread bump,

Was the reed valve the problem? I have a similar issue, after backfiring farting and diying, fuel comes out out of one of the carbs.
Already cleaned the carbs, swapped fuel pumps, etc.