More info on deck replace, please

[jdcoombs]

I had a thread asking about water in the hull and y'all helped me out. My son and I are doing this whole thing as a father-son project He's 13) and we're gettin' after it.
We took the deck and foam out in about 3 hours. Still have to grind down the edge, though. Someone asked me how water was getting in. This was apparently done before and some genius made holes to drain the space w/ holes through the little drain sump wall. But they put them about 1" off the hull, so all they did was let water in, not out.

1) The lengthwise ribs (stringers?) are fiberglass. Are they fiberglass over wood and have to be replaced if wood is gone?

2) What foams are available? There is the XEPS (blue or pink insulation board) and the 2-part, pour-in expanding urethane foam. What else?

3) is the urethane foam these days completely resistand to saturation? The XEPS is pretty close, but will dissolve with a small amount of gasoline.

4) Will the auto insustry polyester resins work, or is there a special marine grade.

5) Is marine-grade, teak plywood the only deck to use, ore is there something else? Far as I can tell, it's $100+ per sheet. Not in planned budget.

6) There were no cross ribs, side-to-side on top of the stringers. Is that normal? Should I put some on?

I know this is lengthy, but these are the ones I couldn't find on other threads.
Thanks a lot.
JDC

 

[tmcalavy]

Re: More info on deck replace, please

Search this forum for "Skanky Beast," a thread that JasonJ authored about restoring a fiberglass tri-hull boat. Invaluable information if you're restoring/rebuilding any boat. I've never done a fiberglass refit, but others have and they will be along to lend their advice soon. Good luck and enjoy the project with your boy.

 

[rockyrude]

Re: More info on deck replace, please

Let me see,
1. yes the stringers are fiberglass over wood, should be replaced if bad

2. most everybody is using the expanding foam, it is no better against water than what was there, but, add channels for water to get out that weren't there before. The solid panels from the box stores are far better against water you just need to glue to the underside of the deck as you install it.

3. The auto resins contain wax so that when it cures it isn't "sticky" O.K for final layer but means sanding between layers on build-ups, not quite as strong but doable.

4. Unless you want the cool look of the teak just use 1/2" pressure treated ply and glass it in an paint it.

5. No cross bracing is normal, didn't have any on my 18' airslot and was fine till water got it. Don't forget, your deck is part of the bracing.

We all have gotten caught up in over thinking our projects, have fun with it!

 

[Robj]

Re: More info on deck replace, please

Here is some info on my rebuild.

http://www.shareaproject.com/pages/projectTut,p,406,00.html

Answers to your question:

Yes replace stringers if rotten, see what mine looked like.

Use 2 part polyurethane pour foam

Go to your local plastics supplier and buy marine grade, unwaxed resin, it will be cheaper in the long run

Just use a good grade douglas fir exterior grade plywood. You can also search this forum on Pressure Treated plywood and get lots of info. PT is the way to go.

Have a great day,

Rob.

 

[oops!]

Re: More info on deck replace, please

hey jd

rob j and the boys said it...

but heres my 2 pennies

#1 stringers are covered with fiberglass and if any rot is there it must be removed. .....some people just remove the rotten part....i say do it all...
once and for good.....pt 3/4 ply laminated togeather or pt full beams you choose.

#2 lots of foam out there ...us composites ..is a supplyer....just use a closed cell.....2 part is most popular.

#3 thru 5 see other responces

#6 i would add cross stringers/braces.....just a few......see skanky beast.

water gets in there thru condensation as well as rain/wet people.

glad you and jr got this project goin......it can be great as long as he's enjoying it and learning.

cheers
oops

 

[tallcanadian]

Re: More info on deck replace, please

i had no cross braces on mine either but i put some in. i used an a grade plywood that is used here on outside of homes. good on one side. just as good a marine plywood. it's 50.00 a sheet here. i used epoxy resin for my build but would not use it again. only because of cost. the benefits are no or little smell and a long curing time. but polyester is much cheaper. i used a 2 part foam and finished with a couple sheets of insulation board just to fill in the space. but eventually the foam will soak again, i'm sure. all my stringers were 2x4 and one 2x6 for the centre one. if you remove your stringers, try to get them out in one piece. this is not always easy or doable. mine were shaped to the bottom of the boat so i wanted at least one for a model. good luck and keep us informed on how the build is going. have any pics?