Alarm - Oil?

[DC20]

Yamaha 2001 2 stroke 130 TXRZ. Cleaned out oil sub tank in boat and changed the strainer. Fired up the motor and let idle for about 2 min. before a continuos alarm went off. Shut right off and restarted a few min. latter and I get the alarm right away. Would air in the line cause this?
The tank on the motor is nearly full.

 

[gcboat]

Re: Alarm - Oil?

Did you use the same brand of oil? Sometimes ( a lot of times actually ) if you mix brands it will cause a gumming issue so it clogs the oil sensor. It gets clogged, no reading - off goes the alarm.

 

[DC20]

Re: Alarm - Oil?

I purchased the boat so I don't know what is in it but it's green and so is the Yamalube I just put in the sub tank( are most 2 stroke oils green?). Should I drain all the old oil out of the engine mounted tank as well and clean the strainer and gauge assembly inside the tank?

 

[yamamarinetech40]

Re: Alarm - Oil?

While you are trying to figure this out, run the engine on a portable tank with 50:1 mix in it....you need to let the alarm happen again and look at your alarm status...you should see three bars until alarm and then you will see one, two, or all three flashing if it's oil related....let us know

 

[rodbolt]

Re: Alarm - Oil?

there are no oil alarms other than the alarm for low engine tank level. unlike merc or suzuki there are no rotational or flow alarms.
oil brand is irrelevant for any yamaha 2 stroke oil alarm.
the digital tach, or on older models shows a temp icon if its overheat,most likly it is, if it oil your tach display will flash the red bar or lamp.
while running a 50/1 premix certainly wont hurt my guess is its a leaking poppit valve and the stbd cylinder overheated on the muffs.

yamaha uses no oil sensors that can clog, simply a float switchthat contains 3 switches,SW1 turns the transfer pump off,SW2 turns the transfer pump on, SW3 sounds the alarm. all 3 use a common ground.
SWB is located in the remote tank and is normally closed, one of the few signals yamaha uses that when its open(no ground path) a lamp lights.
but no alarm with SWB.
ps scuse all the typos, this keyboard here in caracas sux, but the rum is very good

but like I say, my money is gonna be on a bad poppit or pressure relief valve grommet allowing low water pressure to let #1 cyl go dry.

 

[gcboat]

Re: Alarm - Oil?

Hey Rodbolt,

You sure it's the keyboard and not the rum?
Thanks for the info on the Yahama - learn something new each and every day.

 

[rodbolt]

Re: Alarm - Oil?

definatly the keyboard, the Rum was to good.
my flight got canceled so I will post from Caracas one more day.

 

[DC20]

Re: Alarm - Oil?

Ok more of the story...
Before I pulled the sub tank out for cleaning the alarm would sound for about 10 seconds at the first key turn position and when running no alarm. The oil level was on the lower side so I thought it was from that and I knew I was pulling the tank. After cleaning the tank I was putting it back in and noticed that the 4 wire harness going to the gauge had been crimped, turns out the black ground wire was completly coroded through so I spliced in a new piece of wire, the other wires didn't appear to be broken or damaged. My first start of the motor the buzzer only sounded for 7 seconds (nearly full tank), ran the motor and alarm goes off after 2 mins. Today I turned the key first position and the alarm never stops. I disconect the wiring at the sub tank and alarm stops. Does the sub tank gauge pull out of the top off the tank? Could it be stuck? I have have been working on this boat for 2 months (just bought) and this is the last thing keeping me from putting it in the water to see if it floats!

 

[rodbolt]

Re: Alarm - Oil?

ok, I am back in the states, but into the Rum. however you have other issues as you shoukld have no alarms with key on power.
Ill get back tomorrow

 

[DC20]

Re: Alarm - Oil?

Thanks, any help/advice would be great. BTW my boat does not have any visual alarm lights (aftermarket Faria gauges only). I only have the audiable alarm from the controler.

 

[rodbolt]

Re: Alarm - Oil?

the only real way to tell the difference in the oil and overtemp alarms is by the visual indicate. if your handy I can tell you how you can make one or simply buy the correct tach and harness.
but an alarm at key on indicates a problem, that engine has no alarm self test feature.

 

[DC20]

Re: Alarm - Oil?

Well I think I found my problem, (or a start) the black wire going to the gauge assembly in the sub tank was just barely hanging there and of course by the time I got the gauge pryed out of the tank it broke off. I don't think it can be fixed as the break is right at the rubber top. Well before I spend $82.70 on a new one anyone have any good ideas on a wire repair?

 

[rodbolt]

Re: Alarm - Oil?

ok, the remote tank has the blue and brown wires for the transfer pump and the black and black red for the tank low level indicate. this switch is normally closed and opens at low tank level, if you had the correct tach it would show this with a yellow lamp, if the wire is broken or the switch is open NO automatic oil transfer will occur but the remote tank has no alarms.
on the engine tank the switch has 3 functions, transfer pump off, pump on and low oil level alarm.

 

[DC20]

Re: Alarm - Oil?

Update:
Got a new oil level gauge for the sub tank. Alarm still sounds at first key position for 6 to 7 seconds. According to the manuel it should only sound if you have a duel setup.

The alarm also sounds with the oil level gauge in the up position and shuts off in the down position (it did this with the old gauge as well). Could wires be crossed somewhere to do this? I have kept the gauge out of the tank and moved the float by hand.

 

[rodbolt]

Re: Alarm - Oil?

ok, so we keep our terms straight. the remote oil tank is in the hull, it has No level guage simply a float switch. the switch is normally closed, when it opens there is no continuity from the blk to the blk red and the yellow lamp is lit on the tach and no automatic oil transfer can occur.
the engine mounted tank has a 3 switchs on a common shaft with a common float.
SW1 top switch controls transfer pump off, SW2 controls pump on and SW3 controls the audible,visual and RPM reduction functions when it closes and sends a ground signal to the control module.
what color wires are exiting the engine tank float switch ?

 

[DC20]

Re: Alarm - Oil?

The engine oil tank has light brown, white, red, and black wires coming from it.
Yes, I replaced the float switch in the remote oil tank. Float up the buzzer goes off. I do not have the setup that shows any lights (Faria gauges).

 

[JUSTINTIME]

Re: Alarm - Oil?

if you want the dealers troubleshooting guide to help you under stand the system shoot me an email

 

[rodbolt]

Re: Alarm - Oil?

something is wired incorrectly.
there are NO, repeat NO alarms associated with the remote tank.
the only thing the switch in the remote tank controls is yellow lamp on for low remote tank level and signalling the oil control module to inhibit automatic transfer.
the single V4 has no provision for alarm self test at key on.
on the engine switch,white to ground turns the pump off,brown to ground turns the pump on and red to ground sets the alarm.

 

[DC20]

Re: Alarm - Oil?

Well I unpluged the wire harness on both ends from the boat tank to the motor and then plugged them back together. I then unplugged the two fuses on the motor near the selonoids, pulled the fuses completly and reinstalled.
Now: No alarm at all.
Next I will check operation of the pump to make sure it still works ok.
I have unplugged the wire harness before so I wonder if one of the fuses wasn't making good contact. Or did I just happen to move another wire just right?