Painting an outboard

Franknstein

Cadet
Joined
Jan 21, 2008
Messages
12
Hi all

I have a 1980 DT85 Suzuki, and its really starting to show its age now, still original paint, and stickering, and the stickers have almost completely faded away in colour. I'd subsequently like to respray it. A couple of questions to anyone thats done this...

1. Certain places, the paint has chipped off to expose the bare aluminium, do I need to chip off all the paint... like use paint stripper (in combination with sanding)... and respray only once the aluminium is completely bare all over? Or could I touch up the paint chips with a high build primer?

2. What kind of paint should I use? ANything specific? I just want to do a basic white, no metallic or anything fancy.

3. Would you recommend a clear coat over the white?

4. Can I just use a standard automotive 'plastic primer' for the cover/lid/top?

I obviously really dont want to sand the whole unit down to bare metal, as certain sections are very intricate, my plan was to clean the whole unit with degreaser, sand the whole unit lightly for adhesion, spray the lower unit/leg section with high build automotive primer, and the lid with plastic primer, then spray the lid again with high build primer, then spray the whole unit with a white automotive paint, and then possibly a clear coat.

I have connections for custom stickers, printed to a transparent adhesive sticker.

Look forward to your responses.

thanks
 

Bob_VT

Moderator & Unofficial iBoats Historian
Staff member
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May 19, 2001
Messages
26,065
Re: Painting an outboard

Zinc chromate primer is darn near mandatory on bare aluminum. Then you can use automotive paint over the top.
 

*EdC*

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Oct 31, 2007
Messages
661
Re: Painting an outboard

You don't have to remove all the paint. Get some wet/dry sand paper. Use wet. Start with something around 600 grit. Adjust the grit if it's not cutting well.... say 400. Or finer is it leaves scratch marks. Flare out the chipped spots and prime with Zinc chromate. Tempo brand comes in a spray can, and can be found at you local marine store. The plastic cowl is a different story. It scratches easier, and you should go to a fine grit. If it were me, I start with 800 or 1000, assess and adjust. Auto primer will work fine here. One last thing.... The primers are different colors. It might change the top color coat abit.:)
 

tylerr83

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Feb 13, 2008
Messages
142
Re: Painting an outboard

takin it down to bare metal isn't necessary...just make sure you remove any non-adherent paint. pay special attention around areas that it has already chipped/flaked off. and get it as smooth as possible here. I just finished repainting my aluminum boat, basically this same way and it came out great...gettin ready to do the same to my outboard
 

gcboat

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
May 29, 2007
Messages
1,822
Re: Painting an outboard

Just going back with a basic white I would stick with an automotive finish. I've had good luck with the "nason" brand of paint. It's the mid end of the DuPont paint line. It's called a fulthane urethane. Needs to be shot pretty high to get a good finish - with a good gravity gun with a .17 tip. One tack coat then your finish coat.
 

turfman

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Sep 28, 2007
Messages
169
Re: Painting an outboard

I use a tool I call an air wizzer. Basically its a small neumatic angle grinder with a coconut type scotchbrite pad on it. Just redid my v4 Johnson and took me three hrs to get it down to bare metal and fiberglass. If you have access to a good sized air compressor, this is an easy alternative to sanding.
 

Ataraxia

Cadet
Joined
Jan 17, 2007
Messages
12
Re: Painting an outboard

What about powder coating? I do know it's extreemly durable and can be very glossy. Powder coating prices are quite reasonable now. I've always wondered how it would hold up under the waterline though. Anyone have some experience with this?

I too am at the paint stage of my drive. but I sandblasted it to the bone, so I guess I have to use that zinc primer.
 

reelfishin

Captain
Joined
Mar 19, 2007
Messages
3,050
Re: Painting an outboard

What ever you use, make sure that it doesn't contain copper in the pigment. Most marine paints are copper free to prevent galvanic corrosion.
Any bare aluminum spots will have to be cleaned and sanded well, feathered out and primed with a self etching zinc chromate primer. If it's a motor that spends lots of time in the water, I'd consider using an anti fouling paint on the lower unit. The hood can be painted with regular automotive paints. The type of paint and process for the hood will be determined by whether it's made of fiberglass or plastic. If it's glass, it too should have a self etching primer as a first coat. If it's plastic, then the automotive plastic primer will work fine.

Your best bet for paint may be the dealer, if not try a local body shop or paint supply, most have books which list the OEM formulation for the exact paint and they will also have the correct supplies and primer.
 

SeaHorse

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 2, 2001
Messages
205
Re: Painting an outboard

Most rattle can paints are soft and don't hold up.

Get your paint (and free advice) here http://www.nymarine.ca/ I painted a 54 Johnson with this paint and it was rock hard and beautiful.

or go to a real auto paint store and get a pint of real auto acrylic enamel (Dupont Centari) that you add a hardener (Super Wet Look Hard) to. It can be sprayed with a spray gun or a kit (Preval) that has a glass bottle and an air can on top (about $6).

Painting is a hard job with lots of sanding and cleaning and taking apart. Don't try painting with Rustoleum, Krylon or some Duplicolor junk from Autozone. This false economy will look fine for a few weeks but it will soon look shabby and scuffed.
Any places sanded down to the metal require a self-etching primer first.
 

Grits

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Nov 20, 2007
Messages
154
Re: Painting an outboard

Good Luck. I am in the process of doing the same thing with my '93 Evinrude. Any bare al, as any bare metal, need to be etched. In taking the bad paint off, I an using 80 grit. You will need to bring your lunch if you plan on using 400 or higher.

The Nasson product mentioned above is very similar if not the same, Imron. I have used a lot of it and I feel it is good paint at a good price. A clear coat will add some UV protection but I do not think I would worry about it if you are using the Nasson. If you have some laying around, you may consider shooting the cowling because it take the brunt of UV punishment.

You may want to consider using a glazing compound on deep scratches. Is the cowling fiberglass or plastic?

In my opinion, sanding with a #400 is fine enough prior to painting. You want to give either the primer or paint something to get a bite on.

One thing for sure, there is a direct relationship between the prep and the finish. The better the prep, the better the finish. You cannot cover up a bad prep with paint.

Have fun.

Grits
 

tylerr83

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Feb 13, 2008
Messages
142
Re: Painting an outboard

read somewhere on here that aside from using that self etching zinch chromate primer that washing it all down first with a 50/50 mix of vinegar and water will help to etch the aluminum also
 

Grits

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Nov 20, 2007
Messages
154
Re: Painting an outboard

read somewhere on here that aside from using that self etching zinch chromate primer that washing it all down first with a 50/50 mix of vinegar and water will help to etch the aluminum also

tyler,

I have heard the same thing; however, I would not want to risk the cost of the paint and time with it,

Good Luck,

Grits
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,929
Re: Painting an outboard

You have responded to a thread that is 3yrs old.
 
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