1969 18ft Bayliner w/Mercruiser 120

[rdl428]

Hi Guys..a Newbe here

I just picked up my first boat and know very little but have learned and found a ton of information in my Clymer Manual. The boat is a 1969 Bayliner with a inline 4cyl Mercuiser 120. The hull looks good but she definately needs some work. I have a few questions hoping you guys who are familiar with boats could help me out.

1. Motor runs strong. However, the gentleman I picked it up from had it running via hot-wiring it...he had lost the key to the ignition. I bought a new ignition (3 pole) and hooked one wire to the battery and one to the starter. Sure enough she fires right up but will immediately stall out when the switch is turned from the "start" to the "run" position. Anyone got any ideas where to start?

2. Trim will not go down either. I've done a search on this forum but couldn't find anything that really helped me out. It is currently stuck in the upward position. I'm assuming with the boat being a '69 that the control switches at the dashboard have gone bad. Is this common and where can I replace replacement switches? I also read in the manual about a "Limiter Switch" and if this isn't hooked up it could cause this problem. Where is such switch located?

Sorry if I don't know all the correct boating terminology. I'm a motorcycle guy working on my first boat. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Here's a pic of the beast if it helps.

Thanks,

Ryan

 

[rocket1968]

Re: 1969 18ft Bayliner w/Mercruiser 120

I am sure some smarter people than thou will chime in. Do you have an ohmmeter, if not get one, you are going to need it. Looks like my old boat, and not much diff than the one I have now. FInd out how to test with jumpers and then wire as needed. I am not a boat wiz, but can figure out these issues with an ohmmeter and some extra wire.

 

[Bondo]

Re: 1969 18ft Bayliner w/Mercruiser 120

I bought a new ignition (3 pole) and hooked one wire to the battery and one to the starter.

Ayuh,....
Now you need the 3rd 1 to the Ignition.....
It's drawing power from the Start circuit,+ Quits 'cause there's No Power to the Ignition in the Run position of the keyswitch....

For the Trim System,.... Before you start throwing parts at it,... Search out the individual circuits, by jumpering out various loops of it....

Btw,..... Welcome Aboard to the forums here at iboats,....
Somebody will be along to explain further on what I've mentioned.....

Good Luck...
1 more thing,..... If you could reduce the size of your picture to about 480pix. it'll fit the forum Much Better,+ We won't have to side scroll to read this thread.....
Thanks...

 

[rock_doctor]

Re: 1969 18ft Bayliner w/Mercruiser 120

Your ignition switch isn't wired correctly. You need three wires. One from the battery, one to the starter and one to the ignition system. You just have power from the battery and one to the starter. When the starter is engaged, the starter feeds the coil but when the starter is turned off it stops feeding power to the coil and the engine dies. I assume the previous owner took the old switch out and therefore you have a loose wire hanging someplace under the dash. Find this wire... It comes from the + side (plus other connections) of the coil to the run (ign) side of the switch. Also be sure to have water muffs on the drive when ever the engine is running, even for a second. You can toast a pump in less then 30sec w/ water running through it.

good luck,
mark

 

[rdl428]

Re: 1969 18ft Bayliner w/Mercruiser 120

Thanks guys for all your help. This is a very informative forum. I'll be honest...I didn't expect a reply so soon but you guys are great.

Rock_Doctor - I did go to Wal Mart and invest $4.99 on the Flush Kit so I'm not running the motor dry. You were right about the wiring from the previous owner, it looks like a rats nest!! You stated that a wire from the positive side of the coil needs to be hooked up to the IGN pole on the switch..will the coil be marked positive? Do my accessories (ie. lights, etc.) run off the IGN pole of the switch too?

As far as the trim switch goes I hooked up a volt meter but am only getting a little over 3 volts at the switch. Does this make sense or should I have more?

Thanks again you guys for all your help.

 

[Bondo]

Re: 1969 18ft Bayliner w/Mercruiser 120

Ayuh,.....

Have a look thru Here,... Alot of the Answers to your Questions are Here....

 

[rdl428]

Re: 1969 18ft Bayliner w/Mercruiser 120

Thanks Bondo!

 

[Coors]

Re: 1969 18ft Bayliner w/Mercruiser 120

The Clymer isn't even good for toilet paper, I think the OEM manual is linked here, and be be printed out(go buy more ink, and paper)

 

[rock_doctor]

Re: 1969 18ft Bayliner w/Mercruiser 120

Yea basically everything runs off the ign side of the switch including your gauges. Although for high amp items the key only powers relays. You may consider picking a gauge and tracing the wires until you find one that is not connected to anything under the dash. If you have a volt gauge you will have three connections to that gauge. Gauge light, ground and ignition power to the gauge. Trace this wire back and I bet you will find it hanging or it may lead to a distribution block but just trace each wire leaving the block. On the coil you have two connections. A black one that goes to the points in the distributor (ground or - ) and a hot which probably goes to a resistor (rectangular ceramic box) or maybe to the alternator via a resistance wire. With key on you should be seeing ~10volts on the coil hot side.

 

[rdl428]

Re: 1969 18ft Bayliner w/Mercruiser 120

Thanks Rock for helping me again !!

I think I'll look for that OEM manuel too. The one I have is only for the motor and doesn't show anything about the chassis itself.