Motor slipping

birdman23

Cadet
Joined
Mar 22, 2008
Messages
14
First off i don't know where else to post this so if it needs to be moved please do so. Also this is my first post


Heres the deal i bought a 1986 Bayliner Capri about 3 weeks ago and while dinking around on it one day my son (2 yo) pressed down on the tilt button for about 3 seconds before i got him away from it. I had the safety lever? that holds the motor in place while sitting on the motor when he pressed down now when i take off the bar and run the motor on muffs my motor slowly slips down like the hydraulics are bad. i hope that its just maybe a rubber seal or something any input would help


and yes believe me my wife has already informed me that its my fault for letting him play on the boat.


thanks in advance
 

redfury

Commander
Joined
Jul 16, 2006
Messages
2,659
Re: Motor slipping

Yup, you got damage to the hydraulics. They are bleeding down, which means you've got a bad seal...
 

birdman23

Cadet
Joined
Mar 22, 2008
Messages
14
Re: Motor slipping

does that mean a cheap fix or am i looking at several hundred to fix it?
 

Frank Acampora

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jan 19, 2007
Messages
12,004
Re: Motor slipping

First off, It's not your fault or your son's fault. The pump has a pressure relief valve so that if you hold the down button too long, it will not harm the motor or pump. Holding the down button too long merely foams the oil. Some motors have a temperature switch internally so if you hold the up button too long, the motor stops. Others do not have it and again will foam the hydraulic oil.

It was just time for the seals to fail. Usually, it is the seal in the up valve which fails because it gets the most abuse. If your tilt pump has the screw in type valve bodies simply reverse them; it is not absolutely necessary to have a valve holding the engine down. You will see the valve bodies in the front and back of the pump. take the pump off the motor and reservoir assembly and switch the valve bodies. If you have the valve bodies held in with circlips, it is very difficult to remove them and a rebuilt pump would be the easiest way to fix it. Turns out to be fairly expensive though.
 

birdman23

Cadet
Joined
Mar 22, 2008
Messages
14
Re: Motor slipping

is there a step by step on this or is it even totally necessary to fix it considering its a ski boat and i plan on being in either deep water or putting it on the trailer. my boat is in the shop as we speak getting new forward and reverse cables along with a carb rebuild and a ladder mounted to it instead of a swim platform. should i just ask the mechanic for an estimate on replacing the seals? (or flipping them around) as i am not very boat mechanically inclined?


thanks for the replys so far
 

azlakes

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 8, 2007
Messages
720
Re: Motor slipping

... depends on how fast the leak down is. mine is slow enough to get the transom saver off/on and get the boat launched or loaded. if you miss the timing on the leak down you may drag skeg and damage that transom.

if u get a few minutes read this thread. these gents have got Force, etc.. up against the ropes!

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=238586

oh, you may be able to connect that toggle to your ign switch so no key no pwr.

g-luck.
 

birdman23

Cadet
Joined
Mar 22, 2008
Messages
14
Re: Motor slipping

so i keep hearing about smart tabs and how great they are will they fix my problem with a slipping hydraulics? i am looking for something that will keep my motor from slipping back to the down position. is that what they do?

thanks
 

Frank Acampora

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jan 19, 2007
Messages
12,004
Re: Motor slipping

No! Smart tabs are non-powered trim tabs that mount on the transom near the outside bottom edges of the hull. Very basically, they use the water pressure generated against them by the moving boat to adjust the attitude of the hull.

If your engine is slipping to the extent that even the trim cylinder does not hold--that is the engine tucks all the way in toward the transom--and you do not want to repair the tilt/trim, Then: Quick and dirty fix--You can put a 1/2 inch stainless bolt in each side of the engine mounting clamp at the proper hole. That is, use the hole that puts the engine trimmed at the closest approximation to proper running position. Put the nut on the inside and double nut the bolt OR buy a 2 inch long stainless coupler. This is so a lot of area bears on the two tabs on the swivel/yoke.

Unfortunately, the tilt/trim gets in the way and you can not use a long bar unless you remove the assembly.
 
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