Things that need to be done on "new" engine?

[swrupert83]

I am hoping someone can give me pointers or a list of things I should check and/or replace before gasing & firing up an old 1985 85 HP force. I just replaced the starter and starter solenoid.... disconnected the spark plugs and turned the key. She turns strong. previous owner said he had the impeller replace 2 years ago... but i'm not too impressed with his standard of maintenance so far

Next i was going to check for spark. anyone know of a value i should be getting out of the coils?

also where i think was an air filter is crumbly black powder.... what should i replace with?

 

[JB]

Re: Things that need to be done on "new" engine?

How long has it been since the engine was run, swr?

If it has been a while, go to the Engine FAQs and read up on "Awakening a sleeping outboard", or something like that.

Replace the impeller, overhaul the carbs, drain and refill the foot.

Outboards don't use air filters, it must be sound insulating foam from the cowling.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Things that need to be done on "new" engine?

Remove any remaining black sound insulating foam from the hood. It will continue to break off, enter the carbs, and **** up everything. These outboards are so loud, you won't notice the difference in sound.

 

[Scaaty]

Re: Things that need to be done on "new" engine?

Yep, rip out as Frank said..the "aged" insulation...its trash...

 

[swrupert83]

Re: Things that need to be done on "new" engine?

the previous owner said 2 years, but i think he was lying, the boat looks as though it was sitting in his yard unused for at least 5 years....
several layers of leaves in the Chrysler boat that took hours to clean out, and all the "teak" was completely rotted. Just stripped out all of the rotten wood and pulled up the carpet. Considering I spent $250 for boat, engine, and trailer I'm not gonna split hairs

I took out the shop-vac out this morning and already vacuumed up all the black "foam" out, course now I'm gonna flip over the cowling and see if there is any left on the inside and deal with that

I'm trying to figure out a way of lifting the (heavy) engine off the boat temporarily...... the transom is sagging out with the weight of the outboard (85hp on 15ft. bowrider). been soaking all the bolts with PB blaster every day for about a week now. I picked up several pieces of stainless steal plate and a bunch of bolts to reinforce.

whats you take on using seafoam?

 

[azlakes]

Re: Things that need to be done on "new" engine?

... Hi Rupert;

lower the bow all the way down with the trailer/tongue jack. secure your O/B with some blocks of wood under the skeg and snug as possible. all thru hull bolts removed and transom plate loosened. have a helper ready and raise the bow back up. O/B should lift off like a hat. you'll need a O/B stand of some sorts to transfer to.

concern. you mentioned a sagging transom. if your planning on using those stainless plates to shore it up, the transom sounds beyond a bandaid. those plates will need to bite into something and it sounds to far gone and possibly rotted internally. check it out carefully.

g-luck

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Things that need to be done on "new" engine?

Chrysler Boat---actually built by Lone Star which Chrysler bought. Really a very well made boat. As far as your transom----- First, if it is rotted, repair it. You will need to probe it to test. After, don't use plain plates to reinforce. Much better to get a 3 X 3 X 3/16 aluminum angle the width of the transom. Remove any aluminum trim angle on the transom and if you don't want the engine raised, 3/16 to 1/2 inch, cut off the fiberglass transom cap. Cut one leg of the angle to 2 inches to fit over the top of the transom and put the 3 inch leg inside. It is the ANGLE that gives the strength and support to the transom. Secure the 3 inch leg with (5) evenly spaced 5/16 stainless bolts with fender washers on the outside. just be sure the second two are about 16 inches apart to clear the engine mounting clamps and top mounting bolt washers. The center bolt will not interfere with anything. Since Force clamps do not have much area to bear on the transom, I also like to put a plate of .080 hard aluminum on the outside of the transom to cushion it. (please, not that crap, diamond plate; it is soft) Stainless is stronger, but a pain to drill. I make the plate 18 inches by 12 and drill it to clear the splashwell drain if necessary. The three center 5/16 bolts hold it in place and the two bottom engine clamp screws hold the rest of it when the engine is remounted.

Now, even though (and possibly because) your boat is at least 25 years old, (Chrysler stopped making boats around the early '80s) the transom may have bent out solely due to the weight of the engine hanging on it. However, that's to be found out when you start probing the transom.

Finally, you want to go over to The Chrysler Crew and see some of the Chrysler boats in the photo album.

 

[swrupert83]

Re: Things that need to be done on "new" engine?

Well, i was thinking of using the stainless plates I have after lifting the engine up and pulling out the plywood "plate" on the inside and replacing with a new, wider piece of pressure treated plywood that i would glass in. I've already removed some of the plywood with my fingers when poking around before buying the stainless plates (3/16" flat bar), it was that rotten. My idea was to replace the (broken) aluminum plate under the force bracket with the 21" x 3" x 3/16" bar of stainless. Then pull out the rotten plywood, replace with pressure treated of wider size and then glass in. then on top of that a 4 foot long 4" x 3/16" bar bolting through hull every 6 inches (plus the bolts to the engine mount) with fender bolts and large stainless washers on the outside. stainless bar isn't cheap and I would prefer to use what I already have.......


On side note, what is everyones take on doing a seafoam treatment on the engine. anyone done it? anything bad happen?
also before I fire up the engine for the first time in 2 years (after replacing impeller and those steps) should I pop off the spark plugs and squirt a bit of 2 cycle oil in the cylinders to lube her up a little, or is this a waste of time?

 

[swrupert83]

Re: Things that need to be done on "new" engine?

I should mention, that the whole transom isn't sagging..... just the 7 or so inches directly around the engine.

 

[hgmatt]

Re: Things that need to be done on "new" engine?

For your transom, I suggest going over to the Boat Restoration Forum. From what I remember the product of the year (last year, anyways) was call Sea-something. Basically, after you clean out all the rotten wood, you mix and pour this stuff in between the fiberglass. A week later, you have a very hard, sturdy transom. The other recommendation is to search the forum for transom rebuild, they have several detailed postings on those who've done it before.

Also, Seafoam is recommended as a treatment on these engines. I know I performed my first mid-season and it helped clean up the engine and added just a little bit of oomph. Search the forums for Seafoam, and you'll see how recommeded it is.

 

[swrupert83]

Re: Things that need to be done on "new" engine?

thats for all the info.... can't wait for friday. Gonna replace fuel lines, clean the plugs (buy some new ones later) drain & change gear oil, and fire her up (hopefully) & do a sea foam treatment.