edgutgesell
Petty Officer 2nd Class
- Joined
- Jul 18, 2004
- Messages
- 144
I think I have a problem with my 85 150HP Yamaha ETXK thats getting ready to happen. The problem is that I am having problems shifting into reverse. It is revving significantly higher before reverse engages and my controls seem a little off in neutral and forward. This is a saltwater engine and it has a steel shift rod. I have been expecting the shift rod to break or twist in the future requiring replacement with a stainless steel shift rod. Already bought a new stainless steel shift rod!! I also know about the probability of breaking bolts connecting the leg and the power head. I am also aware of rodbolt's broken bolt solution. It includes using DeWalt pilot point bits (3/8") to cut the long (quantity 6, 5"-6"long) broken bolts by drilling the aluminum intermediate housing just below the power head. You drill perpendicular to the bolt shafts therefore cutting them. I would like to avoid breaking the bolts if I can. I have a acetylene torch available to me to heat the housing. I need your opinion on the following:
Rodbolt mentioned that submerging aluminum oxide corroded bolts in chlorine bleach turns the aluminum oxide corrosion to something like fish slime. Everyone seems to say that it's the internal aluminum oxide corrosion in the intermediate housing holes that binds the bolt and that causes the bolt heads to shear off when attempting to remove them. What if I drilled into the housing just below the power head to the stuck bolts but not cutting them? Then inject chlorine bleach into the holes I drilled to dissolve the aluminum oxide corrosion. Think it might work? I understand that muriatic acid (hydrochloric acid) also dissolves aluminum oxide but is more potent. Also, I already have a problem with a front short bolt that has the head sheared already. Are the 4 short bolts also a problem?
Ed G.
Rodbolt mentioned that submerging aluminum oxide corroded bolts in chlorine bleach turns the aluminum oxide corrosion to something like fish slime. Everyone seems to say that it's the internal aluminum oxide corrosion in the intermediate housing holes that binds the bolt and that causes the bolt heads to shear off when attempting to remove them. What if I drilled into the housing just below the power head to the stuck bolts but not cutting them? Then inject chlorine bleach into the holes I drilled to dissolve the aluminum oxide corrosion. Think it might work? I understand that muriatic acid (hydrochloric acid) also dissolves aluminum oxide but is more potent. Also, I already have a problem with a front short bolt that has the head sheared already. Are the 4 short bolts also a problem?
Ed G.