A little quality control help

[Reggie08]

Spent a good portion of the weekend putting my powerhead back together (85 'Rude 90hp). Installed 4 new pistons, wrist pins, wrist pin bearings, rod bearings, crank seals and gaskets.

Had a couple of questions though. When I put the two halves for the crank case together, I used "2B" gasket sealer since there were no gaskets. This sealer doesn't harden. Service Manual said to use "OMC Adhesive M" and wait till it was tacky before putting the two halves together. I didn't go overboard with the sealer. I followed the service manuals directions as far as how much and what pattern. Additionally, I didn't use any gasket sealer on the other gaskets. I did torque everything to specs though.

Should I have used a different sealer for the crankcase halves? And should I have use sealer on the other gaskets?

As much as I hate the thought of having to take everything apart again, if I need to I will. I'd rather be safe than sorry.

Also, during reassembly, I coated all the moving parts liberally with 2-cycle oil.

 

[ezeke]

Re: A little quality control help

You have to use anaerobic sealer on the crankcase halves to be effective.

 

[Faztbullet]

Re: A little quality control help

Hey Reggie,
If that was Permatex 2B take it apart as it will eventually blow out.:redface: Clean both halfs with acetone and use Permatex flange and gasket maker. It is a red anoerobic sealer that hardens in absence of air.

 

[ezeke]

Re: A little quality control help

You can also use The recommended product, Gel Seal, or Loctite 518.

 

[Reggie08]

Re: A little quality control help

Will do guys! Thanks! You probably saved me from a big headache later on

Since I will have most of the motor disassembled, should I use gasket sealer on the other gaskets?

 

[Reggie08]

Re: A little quality control help

Yet another question :redface:

I had a bolt for a head cover snap when I was trying to remove it. Sprayed it good with WD-40, let it soak overnight then tried to break it free with some vice-grips but that didn't work. Even tapped it a couple of times with a hammer to see if that helped but no dice. I thought about putting it on the drill press and drilling it out but decided against it. What would you guys recommend I do to remove this bolt?

 

[ccurran]

Re: A little quality control help

Yet another question :redface:

I had a bolt for a head cover snap when I was trying to remove it.

Have you tried an easy-out?

 

[Reggie08]

Re: A little quality control help

Haven't tried that. I thought about drilling a hole down thru the center of the bolt, applying a little bit of heat and then seeing if it break free that way.

How does the easy-out work?

 

[ccurran]

Re: A little quality control help

Haven't tried that. I thought about drilling a hole down thru the center of the bolt, applying a little bit of heat and then seeing if it break free that way.

How does the easy-out work?

Easier than what you plan on trying. Go to Sears (or any tool supplier) and ask for an easy-out. They may sell a different brand, but they all do the same thing. Google it for lots of details...

 

[Reggie08]

Re: A little quality control help

Oooh! A reason to buy more tools!

 

[iwombat]

Re: A little quality control help

Don't try a easy-out. 9 out of 10 times you'll snap it off in the stud. Then, you're looking at a real problem.

It looks like you've got enough there to get a vice-grip on it. Heat it up red hot with a torch and clamp on a vice grip. It'll come out.

If not, drill it out, or pay your local machine shop $25 to get it out for you.


If you break that easy-out you're looking at a very expensive job.

 

[chicknwing]

Re: A little quality control help

Don't try a easy-out. 9 out of 10 times you'll snap it off in the stud.

I have never had that issue with an easy out. They have always done a nice easy job.

TC

 

[ezeke]

Re: A little quality control help

You can have the same problem with drill bits; if they break off in the screw, they are too hard to drill out.

I use a set of hardened left hand bits. Often just the heat of drilling will loosen the screw enough that the drill bit turns the screw out. Drill a small hole then slightly larger, etc.
http://www.mytoolstore.com/hanson/hanson.html

 

[tmcalavy]

Re: A little quality control help

I have never had that issue with an easy out. They have always done a nice easy job.

TC

You sir are in the minority. Eze-outs are only good for relieving you of a few bucks up front and more bucks later when you have to have shop do the work. Use heat and vise grips or take it to a shop.

 

[Faztbullet]

Re: A little quality control help

Hey Reggie.. Follow ezeke's advise, that the way I do it .On a real stubborn one I will put a nut over stud and weld it, the heat and extra surface area brings em right out. Pm me you high speed jet sizes so I can see what I got in stock.

 

[jbjennings]

Re: A little quality control help

How much I hate those "E-Z" outs! They should be called EZ-ins! I will never, ever use another one. I'd almost bet that if you try it you will snap it off--- if you've never used one before, I'd double the bet. Obviously they may work well for someone or they wouldn't sell them, but for the amateur like me, they're outboard motor POISON. I agree--the heat or the shop.
Just my opinion,
JBJ

 

[ccurran]

Re: A little quality control help

I have never had that issue with an easy out. They have always done a nice easy job.

Me either. Or my dad, who own an auto repair shop for 40 years. Maybe it's a skill thing..

 

[jbjennings]

Re: A little quality control help

Me either. Or my dad, who own an auto repair shop for 40 years. Maybe it's a skill thing..

I can't disagree with the skill thing, no doubt that's part of my problem with 'em. BUT, if you aren't skilled with 'em and break it off, then you're out of luck. So, I still stick to saying that if you don't have a lot of practice with the cursed things, you'd better stay clear of them. Also, a part of my problem could be that the quality of ez out I have used wasn't the best. But I hate them and won't touch another even if it's a "gold plated" ez out. They've got me runnin' scared----and mad at the same time!
JBJ

 

[fishmen111]

Re: A little quality control help

It appears to be sticking out a little. What I do before going to extreme measures is to heat the bolt a little and put PB Blaster on it. Repeat several times. I took a Dremel with a 1.5" cut-off wheel and grooved the broken bolt to accept a large screwdriver. Put Vise-Grips on the screwdriver...comes right out (usually). Just a thought.

 

[Reggie08]

Re: A little quality control help

Welllll....went and bought some easy-outs but still no dice. I think the skill factor came into play. So I'm going to take this head to the machine shop and have them fix it.

I also removed the powerhead, broke open the crank case again, cleaned off the old "2B" sealer with carb cleaner then put a new bead of the anoerobic sealer (PermaTex) on there per the manual. Noticed when I took the crank case apart some of the 2B sealer and gotten into the crank shaft area. I cleaned all the sealer off that I could find and checked the connecting rods as best I could as well as down into the cylinder best I could. Didn't see any sealer near the cylinders. But this brought up a question. Will it cause any problems if the PermaTex sealer seeps into these areas? I only applied a bead to one side of the crank case, placed the two halves together then re-torqued everything. I have good "seepage" around the outer edges but I'm curious about the inside and any seepage that may have occured