HELP!! 40 hp evinrude lower unit

[mikeal]

I have starting breaking down the lower unit on my 87 evinrude 40 hp but i can not get the shifter lose any tips the manual if fuzzy at best. I am new with this motor and would greatly appreciate any advice i could get. The lower unit was making a lower pitched clunking noise while being run and gradually got worse so we towed it in and drained the lower unit. I found pieces of metal so i hope it's the clutch dogs. Is their any thing else i should look for?

Thanks So Much Mikeal

 

[samo_ott]

Re: HELP!! 40 hp evinrude lower unit

Is the shifter bolt under the carb on that model? And you should get the OEM manual if that's not the one you have.

 

[5150abf]

Re: HELP!! 40 hp evinrude lower unit

Pull the starter and you should find the bolt under the carbs, kind of a pain to get to, you will need a long extension and a swivel, the bolt is an 11mm I believe.

Put a bolt back in the lower so it doesn't drop on you when you get the shift bolt out.

You should change the entire gear set, I believe you will fingd the gears are trashed, generally, the way the gears mesh once you get metal spinning around in there it doean't take long to tear things up.

 

[BeerMonkey]

Re: HELP!! 40 hp evinrude lower unit

same prob i have. they dont say in the oem book that you need totake the starter off to get to that bolt

 

[ottertail]

Re: HELP!! 40 hp evinrude lower unit

The manual will not tell you to take the starter off but it will definately help you see what is going on and where you need to get to , you could also remove the bottom cowls. that engine has the spit bottom cowling, again it is not necessary but helps to open up the sight picture. the shift rod connetor bolt is under the bottom carb on your engine and cmes in from the port (left) side. once it is unhookoed the lower unit will drop, so the earlier tip of starting 1 bolt back is a good one.

 

[mikeal]

Re: HELP!! 40 hp evinrude lower unit

Thanks you where correct the manual had me pull the carbs and i could not see the cable and the lower just came right out. The gears are being a little tough to get to i have tried to release the top and go in the prop but the main piece behind the prop is in somewhat dis-repair an tips on how to remove it? I have a bearing puller but not on hand like normal someone borrowed and i'm have to track down but will a normal puller work or do you have to have a special tool?

Pull the starter and you should find the bolt under the carbs, kind of a pain to get to, you will need a long extension and a swivel, the bolt is an 11mm I believe.

Put a bolt back in the lower so it doesn't drop on you when you get the shift bolt out.

You should change the entire gear set, I believe you will fingd the gears are trashed, generally, the way the gears mesh once you get metal spinning around in there it doean't take long to tear things up.

 

[tomnort]

Re: HELP!! 40 hp evinrude lower unit

I also have a 40 hp Evinrude; I'm trying to remove the lower unit for impeller service. It's a 1985 ELCO, ran fine at the end of the year, no known issues.

I had the usual strugle with the shift linkage, which the manual is real fuzzy on, but 5150abf nailed it with the following advice:

"Pull the starter and you should find the bolt under the carbs, kind of a pain to get to, you will need a long extension and a swivel, the bolt is an 11mm I believe.
Put a bolt back in the lower so it doesn't drop on you when you get the shift bolt out."

However, it only moved down about 1/8" and won't go further. I verified the linkage is completely disconnected, and moved it down a bit with a screwdriver to be sure it's free. A little gentle persuasion with a rubber hammer did nothing. Almost seems like the driveshaft splines are hanging, but I did get the small movement.

Any ideas? I've been struggling a couple days with this with no progress.

Thanks!

 

[tomnort]

Re: HELP!! 40 hp evinrude lower unit

Got it! Seems like the O-ring at the top of the driveshaft was hanging up more than it should. I sprayed WD-40 and penetrating oil up there, and it must have lubed the rubber enough so it would slip out. I sure had to work it a lot, though. The O-ring was kinda deformed when it came out. Everyone says they can be tough to get off; this one made me pretty frustrated.