1971 Evinrude Triumph 60hp question

[kwc]

Dad's beloved motor is sick. Was up there this weekend and it is stuck in forward (electroshift model) I took apart the control switch and sprayed in some contact cleaner in the F N R button area and up inside the rubber coated switch box but no change. I lacked a mutimeter up at the lake to
test this switch as my shop manual suggests but I suspect the problem is in the shift solenoids in the lower unit. Here is why. My Dad ran 90 weight standard gear oil in the LU for two weeks, two short trips out in the lake per day. While in for a charging rectifier, the mech said "that doesn't look like Type C in there" (it wasn't), so he changed it. Still stuck in forward. Is there anyway to flush, clear etc the lower unit to fix this problem without removing and (UGH) rebuilding? Is it fubar? Buy a used / rebuilt lower unit the only way out? The mechanic said something about a screen that can get clogged but didn't say anything about time required to fix, except to say that i is costly. Any ideas boyz?

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: 1971 Evinrude Triumph 60hp question

Hydro Electric Shift)
(J. Reeves)

The shifting setup of the lower unit is what's called a "Hydro Electric Shift", which is quite complex consisting of voltage being applied to solenoids in the lower unit which in turn change oil passages via a oil pump that supplies various pressure on a spring loaded shifter dog. The wires leading to the lower unit (at the powerhead) are "Green" and "Blue". The engine must be running or cranking over in order to shift out of forward gear.

You CAN NOT use HI VIS lube in that lower unit. You MUST USE what OMC calls "Premium Blend" lube, commonly called "Type C". (A thinner lube)

In neutral, you need 12v to the "Green" wire.
In reverse, you need 12v to both wires, the "Green" one and the "Blue" one.
In forward, there should be no voltage to either wire. (The spring loaded shifter dog forces the unit into forward gear)

To check the lower unit for proper shifting to make sure you have no trouble there, remove the spark plugs to avoid problems and to allow a higher cranking speed.

This next step eliminates the actual shift switch in case problems may exist there.... Disconnect the blue & green wires at the knife connectors (the rubber insulated boots) leading to the lower unit at the powerhead, then using jumpers, take voltage direct from the starter solenoid to apply voltage to the "Green" wire for neutral, then both wires 'Green" & "Blue" for reverse (Remember the engine must be cranking over in order to shift).
With no voltage applied, the unit should be in forward. No need for a ground jumper... the lower unit's already grounded. You may crank the engine with the key switch or by energizing the starter solenoid with a jumper wire.

 

[F_R]

Re: 1971 Evinrude Triumph 60hp question

The 90 oil is not your problem, especially since you changed it. 90% of shifting troubles in that unit are the shift switch. Only after you have checked out the electrical part should you even think about tearing into the lower unit. The solenoids don't deserve anywhere near the bad press that they get.

You say you have a shop manual. Check the voltages at the blue and green wires. Check the resistance of the solenoids (at the leads by the powerhead). A volt-ohm meter and understanding how to use it are your best friends.

Problems inside the lower unit are usually dirt and junk in the oil pump hydraulic shifter piston assembly. That usually causes it to hang up in neutral, not stay in forward. But all things are possible I suppose.

Remember, it won't shift out of forward unless it is running or at least cranking!!