evinrude 100 freebie

[fishdog4449]

Hey guys heres some pics of my newest freebie. 1972 Evinrude 100 v-4. Friend wanted it out of their yard, it actually runs well and has plenty of power, but has one issue with ignition. (will make seperate post on this). Motor was run in freshwater only and well taken care of. Also got two working sets of controls, a bilge pump, a teleflex steering system, and the factory manual!
Other than the fact that it has electric shift, any other known issues or feedback for this motor?
Not sure how it came to be painted a fruity bluish color, but if it runs well and I get good feedback I may decided to restore it to look like so
Also is this motor a looper or crossflow?
thanks!

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: evinrude 100 freebie

gas hogs, but were dependable. shift is the only draw back.

Hydro Electric Shift)
(J. Reeves)

The shifting setup of the lower unit is what's called a "Hydro Electric Shift", which is quite complex consisting of voltage being applied to solenoids in the lower unit which in turn change oil passages via a oil pump that supplies various pressure on a spring loaded shifter dog. The wires leading to the lower unit (at the powerhead) are "Green" and "Blue". The engine must be running or cranking over in order to shift out of forward gear.

You CAN NOT use HI VIS lube in that lower unit. You MUST USE what OMC calls "Premium Blend" lube, commonly called "Type C". (A thinner lube)

In neutral, you need 12v to the "Green" wire.
In reverse, you need 12v to both wires, the "Green" one and the "Blue" one.
In forward, there should be no voltage to either wire. (The spring loaded shifter dog forces the unit into forward gear)

To check the lower unit for proper shifting to make sure you have no trouble there, remove the spark plugs to avoid problems and to allow a higher cranking speed.

This next step eliminates the actual shift switch in case problems may exist there.... Disconnect the blue & green wires at the knife connectors (the rubber insulated boots) leading to the lower unit at the powerhead, then using jumpers, take voltage direct from the starter solenoid to apply voltage to the "Green" wire for neutral, then both wires 'Green" & "Blue" for reverse (Remember the engine must be cranking over in order to shift).
With no voltage applied, the unit should be in forward. No need for a ground jumper... the lower unit's already grounded. You may crank the engine with the key switch or by energizing the starter solenoid with a jumper wire.

 

[fishdog4449]

Re: evinrude 100 freebie

Thanks Tashas sounds good!
Only thing is does this motor even have the hydraulic solenoid in the lu, it says "selectric shift" on the control box. When I get her on the stand I will do an inspection and make a post as to the problem.

 

[patrick4266]

Re: evinrude 100 freebie

I think that is the actual color of that model as i bought a power tilt off the same model and the motor was the same color as yours. I have a 1972 85 hp slectric shift and I like it.

 

[ezeke]

Re: evinrude 100 freebie

I think that the light gold color showing in places is the original 1972 paint: http://old-omc.de/e_1972/seite_20_21.jpg

 

[fishdog4449]

Re: evinrude 100 freebie

Thats what I was thinking Ezeke. Your 85 ever give you any problems shifting patrick?

I've started to use some paint stripper to get the paint off so i can repaint, but its very tedious and ineffecient. Anyone know of a better way to remove the old paint (it's flaking in places, otherwise i would paint right over it)
I was thinking that the orbital sander might be used, then hand sand all the hard to reach areas.
Thanks, MJK

 

[ezeke]

Re: evinrude 100 freebie

Acetone will take the blue paint off, but I would not use it except on a windy day, wearing a mask and rubber gloves, and of course, working outside. Oven Easy Off will remove the paint as well, but with the same concerns for your own health.

 

[patrick4266]

Re: evinrude 100 freebie

I have never had a problem and some people have used them for many a years with out problems. Below is the link of the blue motor I was telling you about. I guess some one painted it like that.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll16/patrick4266/010202010301011604200806209febb2d2d.jpg

 

[patrick4266]

Re: evinrude 100 freebie

That is a 100hp 1971 johnson

 

[fishdog4449]

Re: evinrude 100 freebie

thanks patrick
yea i found the '72 brochure and the evinrude 100 for that year is that evinrude dark green with white decals and a while prop

 

[emdsapmgr]

Re: evinrude 100 freebie

You've got a small bore crossflow-92.6 cubic inches. Shares the same block with the 85. The 125 and later models all shared the larger block at 99 cubic inches. I ran a 72 100 hp for years and was really happy with it.

 

[ezeke]

Re: evinrude 100 freebie

In the 1970's original green paint motors are Johnsons, not Evinrudes.

 

[fishdog4449]

Re: evinrude 100 freebie

hey guys one more question. ive got the motor running fine and think i solved the electrical issue in my other post. but before i start it again i am changing the impeller because it gave me a heat warning buzz last time while idling on the stand. now my question is is there a trick to removing the screw that holds the trim tab in place? none of the sockets i have seem to fit it...maybe a nonstandard size?

 

[ezeke]

Re: evinrude 100 freebie

It is supposed to be SAE 7/16. If it's worn, you will do better with a 6 point socket.

 

[fishdog4449]

Re: evinrude 100 freebie

hmm. well a 7/16 is definitly too big...closest one is a 3/8. and its torqued to more than 50ftlbs because i applied about that much with torque wrench and nothing.

 

[toey77]

Re: evinrude 100 freebie

hmm. well a 7/16 is definitly too big...closest one is a 3/8. and its torqued to more than 50ftlbs because i applied about that much with torque wrench and nothing.

I used a 11mm hex socket on mine fitted well for me. I assumed they were metric though being American (I think) I am sure I will get set straight on that

 

[emdsapmgr]

Re: evinrude 100 freebie

Once you get the trim tab off, you will find another bolt hiding up there which must come out to remove the lower unit.