1958 Johnson 35 hp super sea horse question

[The320]

I have a 1972 Crest Pontoon Boat 25 ft with a 1958 Johnson Super sea horse 35 hp. Engine looks great and I got a great deal on the Boat as a whole. I have been going through the Engine by doing basic tune up things, New plugs (wires look good) new fuel and vacum lines, carb rebuild. Starts up and runs great, having a little problem with the low idle though, and my real question is, and it would make it easier to get the low idle down, if the battery wouldn't die on the 6th or seventh start. What excatly is the charging system on this engine, Anyone got any tips on it or where I can buy parts? Or any tips I can do to see if it Working properly or things I can do. I have had the Battery tested and it is good.

 

[mainer4]

Re: 1958 Johnson 35 hp super sea horse question

Hi There - the real question is, do you HAVE a charging system? Just because it is electric start does not mean it has a generator and control system. When you have the cover off, do you see a belt going to a generator from the flywheel, or do you just have the starter motor installed? Being a newbie myself several years ago I did not realize that the generator was a separate option. Now on my second electric start motor without the generator option I know better. Just have to recharge the battery once in a while.

For the low idle problem, this is somewhat typical of the old twins IME. Need to make certain the carb is clean and tight. Any leaks and you will never be able to get the low idle right. Biggest source of leakage is the idle jet shaft seal itself.

 

[F_R]

Re: 1958 Johnson 35 hp super sea horse question

Will it idle better with the hood off, or door open? That comes from smoke getting under the hood.

 

[R.Johnson]

Re: 1958 Johnson 35 hp super sea horse question

That engine has a what they called back then a cruise throttle. What it did when you pulled the throttle back part way, the mag. plate stayed at full advance, and the throttle plate retarded back from full open. Is this properly adjusted? If the throttle plate is partially open at the idle position, you can't adjust the idle needle properly. Do you have a manual? Setting the linkage is some what hard to discribe, or slow to type, if you type like I do.

 

[The320]

Re: 1958 Johnson 35 hp super sea horse question

No I do not have a manuel. Have to check that throttle plate, but no I do not see a belt from the flywheel to the generator. So quess I will be charging the battery after use from now on.

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: 1958 Johnson 35 hp super sea horse question

try out these directions. best thing i ever did to my 57 35.

(Carburetor Adjustments - Two Adjustable N/Vs)
(J. Reeves)

Initial settings are: Bottom high speed = seat gently, then open 1 turn out. Top slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Setting the high and low needle valves properly:

NOTE: For engines that DO NOT have a shift selection, obviously there is no NEUTRAL position. Simply lower the rpms to the lowest setting to obtain the low speed needle va /lve adjustment.

(High Speed) Start engine (it will run pretty rough), shift into forward gear, take up to full throttle. In segments of 1/8 turn, wating for the engine to respond between turns, start turning in the bottom high speed needle valve. You'll reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the needle valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest setting.

(Low Speed) Slow the engine down to where it just stays running. Shift into neutral. Again in segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the top needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running. Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back. Again, at that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustments, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

 

[The320]

Re: 1958 Johnson 35 hp super sea horse question

Thanks, that sounds easy enough, will give it a try and let you know what happens.

 

[The320]

Re: 1958 Johnson 35 hp super sea horse question

Okay, got a lot done today. Hooked up the shift and throttle cable correctly, found they were wrong. Also, went ahead and took it out and did the adjustments, and it is dead on, Thanks. But I have one more question. The adjustments seem loose and move while i'm driving, so I had to temporarily rig them with zip ties so they wouldn't move. Is there supposed to be a spring or something on the back of the adjustment by the fitting? Wasn't in the rebuild kit, and wasn't there when I rebuilt it. And does anyone know the value of this engine? Thanks

 

[The320]

Re: 1958 Johnson 35 hp super sea horse question

Also, one more thing. The engine, with the cowl on and totally closed up seems like it is starving for air, have to leave the hood door cracked. Is there supposed to be a vent on the cowl? Could it be Clogged?

 

[tmcalavy]

Re: 1958 Johnson 35 hp super sea horse question

If the high and low speed needles/jets are working loose when you run the boat, you need to tighten the nut that secures each one into the carb. You don't want to crank it down rock solid, but get it tight enough that they stay where you put them. If it has the silencer on the front of the carb, you can take that off to help it breathe better. Otherwise, maybe just crack the cowl vent open a little?

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: 1958 Johnson 35 hp super sea horse question

you may need a carb kit, as the packing around the needles that age are known to go bad.

 

[R.Johnson]

Re: 1958 Johnson 35 hp super sea horse question

If the engine will run correctly only with the front cover open, you have an exhaust gas leak into the hood. If you take the back cover off that cover's the exhaust housing , you will see a large rubber ring seal at the bottom of the housing. See if it is coming apart, I would bet so. Even finding one, it would probably tear in two from age.

 

[CATransplant]

Re: 1958 Johnson 35 hp super sea horse question

In the front of the lower cowling pan on that outboard, under the carburetor, there is a hole, with a filter pad on top of it. If I remember correctly, there's a cover over that, held on with two or three screws. Those filters get fouled over time with old oil and fuel, and can let too little air into the cowling.

Remove the filter and clean it in Stoddard solvent or raw gasoline (safety, safety). Then replace it.

I had problems with that on mine. Ran great with the cowling off or with the rope start cover open. Once I cleaned that filter, everything was cool.

On the 58 RDS-20, there's no air silencer or anything else in front of the carb. That filter was supposed to keep small animals and rocks out of the engine. If you can't clean it, dump it. No harm will come to your outboard. The only effect will be a little more intake noise. In fact, they used that filter clear through 1968 at least. The pad is called a silencer pad in the parts list, and it's still available as part # 0305375. Under $5.

 

[The320]

Re: 1958 Johnson 35 hp super sea horse question

Got the Silencer cleaned up today, totally caked with dirt and oil, gonna fire it up tomorrow and see how she does. Tried to tighten the nuts down that the needles are in but they are already tight, and don't want to strip them, could I use some of that plumbers tape?
Any idea On the value of this engine?

 

[jbjennings]

Re: 1958 Johnson 35 hp super sea horse question

I've been lurking on your thread......Plumbers tape won't work. I thought you said you rebuilt the carb with a new kit. The packing washers should have been in the kit----heck, that's usually what is bad on one, other than the float, in my experience. I believe if I were you and I had a little cork or felpro gasket material lying around I'd make my own packing washers. I find that a single hole punch will make a nice hole for the needle valves. Take the packing nuts out and put a washer in and retighten. they should get tight and hold the valves where they won't budge with just a little pressure on the wrench. They're brass so of course don't put much torque on 'em. I'll bet it will run great. I think they idle pretty darned good when they're tuned right. Just as good as any modern 2-stroke of that horsepower. Seems like 25's and 35's aren't the smoothest idlers of all for any brand or year. The 18's and 10's are lots smoother. But it should still idle just fine.
Good luck,
JBJ

 

[CATransplant]

Re: 1958 Johnson 35 hp super sea horse question

Got the Silencer cleaned up today, totally caked with dirt and oil, gonna fire it up tomorrow and see how she does. Tried to tighten the nuts down that the needles are in but they are already tight, and don't want to strip them, could I use some of that plumbers tape?
Any idea On the value of this engine?

Yup. Those silencers almost never get cleaned, and they can be a source of problems. I hope it helps.

 

[The320]

Re: 1958 Johnson 35 hp super sea horse question

Well you guys were absolutly right. Engine is running like a champ. thank you very much for your help.

 

[CATransplant]

Re: 1958 Johnson 35 hp super sea horse question

We're really glad it worked out for you. Keep visiting iboats.com!