Crankcase cover removal

[tbrownarcher]

Model # J150PLEES Johnson 150 60degree v6.

Serial # G04539442

Year 1999

We bought this boat with a broken motor thinking we can fix the motor we have the parts and have come to a place we are afraid to advance from.

We need to remove the crankcase cover. We have all the bolts off unless there is something under the flywheel which we are trying to avoid taking off.

There is a small notch on either side at the top most portion of the crankcase cover that appears to be the place to get leverage to break it away from the block. However, we cannot seem to get much separation. We are thinking it's just the gasket sealer that's holding it together but maybe it's something else and we are afraid to use much pressure.

We have placed a flat screwdriver in that slot and twisted very hard and even taken a hammer to the screwdriver trying to knock it loose but it only puts a groove in the aluminum. IS THERE SOMETHING else we can do?


Thanks,
Nate

 

[splitshot]

Re: Crankcase cover removal

not too sure on your newer motor but my 1977 140 had a crankshaft bearring under the timer base which is under the stator...which is under the flywheel....on mine the bearing housing was bolted to both halves so it all had to come off on mine...also on mine there was a lower bearring the same way as the top...bolted on both sides of the crank case halfs...if this is the case on yours you will have to pull the power head i did mine in about an hour its not that hard mine was a V4 and i lifted it off by myself....makes everything so much easier...what broke on your motor ???

 

[woody66912]

Re: Crankcase cover removal

you have to pop flywheel to remove upper crank bearing carrier and stator

 

[victoria lyon]

Re: Crankcase cover removal

what is your?

 

[victoria lyon]

Re: Crankcase cover removal

sorry i just entered number one ruel never take shortcuts i say this with good intention you have to remove all acessory to make it exssable to repair prorerly and 100% affixed diognostics

 

[SKEETR]

Re: Crankcase cover removal

There is a lower bearing assembly as well that holds the halves together.

 

[wilde1j]

Re: Crankcase cover removal

The powerhead has been removed from the midsection, right? If you had a OEM shop manual, it would answer all your questions!

 

[tbrownarcher]

Re: Crankcase cover removal

We are being very careful (not taking a step we are not exactly sure of). That's why I'm asking. I saw nothing in the manual about this. What section should I look in? We are using a clymer evinrude/johnson manual.

I dont' understand the term OEM. Is that good enough? I am sturggling with the number of different motors included in this manual.

Thanks,
Nate

 

[wilde1j]

Re: Crankcase cover removal

OEM = Original Equipment Manufacturer, i.e. the engine maker. Most third party manuals are borderline worthless. Get a proper manual for YOUR motor!

You can't take the PH apart until it's removed from the rest of the motor.

 

[tbrownarcher]

Re: Crankcase cover removal

Well, we now have an OEM. We got the flywheel off this motor and found that when it was bored out (probably) someone put the flywheel magnets down somewhere and a fish hook got into the magnets. The flywheel is a mess.

Sad if it were not so serious.

Does anyone know of a place that could rebuild the flywheel. Someone mentioned that the magnets could be removed and new ones placed in the flywheel?

thanks,
Nate

 

[wilde1j]

Re: Crankcase cover removal

You can get a flywheel magnet kit from a BRP (Evinrude) dealer. You'll also need epoxy and have to clean the area for the magnets to bright metal.

 

[tbrownarcher]

Re: Crankcase cover removal

WEll, We now have the motor ready to come off the exhaust. We are using muscle to get it off. It seems that something is holding it. I'm assuming it's the shaft to the lower unit. We think it's binding because of unequal lifting abilities but really don't know . The OEM says 'REMOVE'. WE have everything removed that should be to get it up off the exhaust. Is there something else? Do we have to go rent an engine hoist? I thought we could get it off the exhaust with muscle but it seems something is going wrong.

It comes up maybe an inch and then won't come any further but still i'm thinking it's unequal lifting. power he's 30 and i'm 61 lol

Don't want to bend any shaft to the prop!!!!!!

 

[wilde1j]

Re: Crankcase cover removal

I would start by dropping the LU 1st, then if the LU hasn't been down in a long time, you can get the driveshaft to separate from the crankshaft. You need to do this to service the water pump anyway, so it's a a great place to start.

Make absolutely sure you've got all the fasteners removed from the powerhead to the adapter before resorting to any brute force. When at home, I've used a chain hoist from a garage beam, etc. to put upward force on the PH. If the motor was used in saltwater, it is especially difficult getting stuff like this to separate.

If that motor doesn't have a lifting eye, put the flywheel puller back on (temporarily replace the flywheel) and use the puller as a place to lift from. Sometimes it takes actually lifting the back of the boat off the trailer a little and having someone jump in the stern to get separation. Be careful about using any prying tools, BC you can wreck the block that way.

Be patient and good luck.

 

[tbrownarcher]

Re: Crankcase cover removal

We can actually get the power head to come up maybe an inch. But it binds up and we are lifting the whole boat but then we are trying to lift it with muscle. When I take the Lower unit off will the shaft come with the unit or stay in the power head?


as far as prying the OEM actually told us to pry but that was to break it loose.

thank,
Nate

 

[wilde1j]

Re: Crankcase cover removal

OK, sounds like the driveshaft is corroded to the crankshaft. It;s a splined connection and someone may not have greased the splines last time it was apart. Here I would get some separation between the LU and midsection and drive wooden wedges (oak is best) into the opening. Don't remove the LU bolts all the way BC it will suddenly drop when the shaft lets go. Good luck. Hopfully the splines aren't toast.