Refurb Questions

[109jb]

OK. First off, I purchased a 1988 Sea Ray Seville a few weeks ago. Got it basically for the value of the 115 Mariner that is bolted on the back. I actually bought it because my BIL needed a motor for his boat and I came across this one. The wife and I decided that we really like the layout of the boat. We have a handicapped son who likes to ride on the tube with me and the low sides and rear swimming platforms are awesome for getting him in and out of the boat. We have decided to fix it up. BTW, we're keeping the motor too and the BIL found another one. Anyway, the hull is in decent shape except for the three screws that the previous owner drove right through the bottom of the hull. However, there are spots on the floor that are soft and will need to be repaired. I suspect that all of the wood below the floor is in sad shape and the foam is likely waterlogged. In order to finish the boating season, I plan to just overlay the floor with some 1/2" CDX plywood, and will do a complete refurb after the season is done gutting the boat down to the bare hull. This boat will have to live outside as it has for many years before I got it, only I will actually put a cover on it. Now the questions:

1. What options do I have for replacing the stringers, floor, etc. What I want to know is if there are cost effective rot-proof replacements that can be done so that it will never have to be re-done again.

2. When I replace the foam, is there a closed cell expanding foam that will not absorb water?? If so, where do I get it? Also, any guesses on how much it will cost me to re-foam a 16 ft Seville?

3. Bracing? Seems to me that once I remove the floor, foam, stringers, etc, the hull will be much, much less rigid. How should I brace the boat to keep it from racking on me? I was thinking about making 2 reinforced plywood frames, one at the rear, and one right about where the consoles are that support the boat. Or, am I making too much of this?? Can I just do it on the trailer?

Obviously this is a 20 year old boat and I don't want to break the bank on it, but if I can do it better for a reasonable increase in cost, I will.

Thanks,

John B.

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: Refurb Questions

i do mine on the trailer. i block up the trailer so it does not rock. cost depends on what you hit in exploration. you never know till you open one up.

 

[109jb]

Re: Refurb Questions

Understood. I have done some exploration and cut a few plugs with a hole saw already. What I have found makes me believe that this one is going to need everything. It hasn't been well cared for at all and was sitting outside without a cover anywhere in sight when I went to look at it.

What I really want to see is if there are better materials with reasonable cost that I can use to replace the plywood that was in there from the factory. I've been searching around on the forums and it appears that some are using the composite deck boards for keel beams. I'm wondering if something similar exists for the floor. Plywood I'm sure would be fine for me as I take pretty good care of my stuff and will keep the boat covered or in my barn when possible. I just wanted to see if there is something even better that wouldn't cost me an arm and a leg more than just using plywood.

 

[tmcalavy]

Re: Refurb Questions

Leave the top cap on and cut the deck out with a saw/grinder; remove old foam and replace stringers with resin encapsulated ones; replace foam and replace deck with resin encapsulated plywood. Fix the leaks/holes while you have the hull gutted. Several threads will explain this if you search for "replacing deck" etc. Yes there is a closed cell foam just for this purpose, you have to figure the cubic feet to figure the amount/cost involved...again, do a forum search. As TD said, leave it on the trailer and don't remove the top cap unless you have to. One of the best threads that shows all this is "Skanky Beast" resto by Jason J. Good luck.

OK. First off, I purchased a 1988 Sea Ray Seville a few weeks ago. Got it basically for the value of the 115 Mariner that is bolted on the back. I actually bought it because my BIL needed a motor for his boat and I came across this one. The wife and I decided that we really like the layout of the boat. We have a handicapped son who likes to ride on the tube with me and the low sides and rear swimming platforms are awesome for getting him in and out of the boat. We have decided to fix it up. BTW, we're keeping the motor too and the BIL found another one. Anyway, the hull is in decent shape except for the three screws that the previous owner drove right through the bottom of the hull. However, there are spots on the floor that are soft and will need to be repaired. I suspect that all of the wood below the floor is in sad shape and the foam is likely waterlogged. In order to finish the boating season, I plan to just overlay the floor with some 1/2" CDX plywood, and will do a complete refurb after the season is done gutting the boat down to the bare hull. This boat will have to live outside as it has for many years before I got it, only I will actually put a cover on it. Now the questions:

1. What options do I have for replacing the stringers, floor, etc. What I want to know is if there are cost effective rot-proof replacements that can be done so that it will never have to be re-done again.

2. When I replace the foam, is there a closed cell expanding foam that will not absorb water?? If so, where do I get it? Also, any guesses on how much it will cost me to re-foam a 16 ft Seville?

3. Bracing? Seems to me that once I remove the floor, foam, stringers, etc, the hull will be much, much less rigid. How should I brace the boat to keep it from racking on me? I was thinking about making 2 reinforced plywood frames, one at the rear, and one right about where the consoles are that support the boat. Or, am I making too much of this?? Can I just do it on the trailer?

Obviously this is a 20 year old boat and I don't want to break the bank on it, but if I can do it better for a reasonable increase in cost, I will.

Thanks,

John B.

 

[109jb]

Re: Refurb Questions

Leave the top cap on and cut the deck out with a saw/grinder; remove old foam and replace stringers with resin encapsulated ones; replace foam and replace deck with resin encapsulated plywood. Fix the leaks/holes while you have the hull gutted. Several threads will explain this if you search for "replacing deck" etc. Yes there is a closed cell foam just for this purpose, you have to figure the cubic feet to figure the amount/cost involved...again, do a forum search. As TD said, leave it on the trailer and don't remove the top cap unless you have to. One of the best threads that shows all this is "Skanky Beast" resto by Jason J. Good luck.

I think my question is getting lost somehow. I'm not at all worried about doing the work or how to do the work itself. I'm mainly wondering if anyone has found any alternates to wood. Something that won't rot, or is more resistant to rot, but that won't cost 50 times the price of wood. Something like the composite deck boards for keel beams. In that regard, a buddy is right now building a deck with those and I'm going to get a couple short pieces of scrap to play with.

BTW, the "Skanky Beast" thread was great.

Thanks again guys,

John B.

 

[TamFee]

Re: Refurb Questions

There is a product out there as a replacement for wood....it is called bluewater 26--look it up on internet--nothing but postive things said about....what I hear--once replaced your great grandchildren can enjoy it. cost more than plywood but lighter, doesnt absorb water, no rot, no mildew---etc....just a thought

 

[109jb]

Re: Refurb Questions

Wow!! I knew there was stuff out there, but I had no idea about the cost. $300 a sheet and probably 4 sheets needed is out of my league. If there is anything else out there that is cheaper I'd be interested, but it looks like I'll be sticking to good old plywood. Thanks for the post though.