SOLVED....starting issues...is it my battery?

macr6

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I have a 98 3.0L Merc

I pulled the boat out of the water and trailered it home. I get home and I pull the carb for an overhaul. I put the carb back on and try to start it and the boat just clicks. Doesn't turn over. So I get out my volt meter and the battery reads 12.55 volts. Is the battery the cause of my problems or should I be looking somewhere else? Manual says it may be a faulty neutral switch. If the battery is not my problem where do I go to next?
 

Don S

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Re: starting issues...is it my battery?

Re: starting issues...is it my battery?

If the sound was just a click, go here.
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=167035

If it was a hard KLUNK!, pull the spark plugs and either turn the engine by hand or lightly bump the start switch and see if water comes out of the plug holes.
 

cguerrieo

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Re: starting issues...is it my battery?

Re: starting issues...is it my battery?

a few things!
make sure your battery connections are TIGHT. check the alternator, battery, starter, and all the grounds, especially the engine block ground.
if she still doesn't start. put a load on the battery by turning on lights, radio, and accessories. if they are on bright and solid, then your battery is probably not the issue, it may be your starter.
next, have someone turn the key while you tap on the starter with a hammer.....not too hard! you want to tap on the large section, not the small solenoid as it will break easily.
if it starts after tapping, then you have a bad starter. it may not start and still be the starter...if the contacts inside are too far gone it won't turn the starter.
good luck
 

macr6

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Re: starting issues...is it my battery?

Re: starting issues...is it my battery?

Don thanks for the link I am currently reading it. In the post you say you can use a volt meter to do the test. What readings should I get? I don't have a test light.

Is 12.55 volts the right charge on a battery. I know that sounds like a dumb question but I can't remember is it matters if it's a tenth off one way or the other. When I turn the key and I get the click the battery charge drops down to about 12.1 volts.

The battery is brand new. I bought it in June and have been using it every weekend since. I got rid of the wing nuts and put on regular nuts and they are tight. (that was the problem with the former battery)

I will run through the tests from Don tomorrow.
 

Don S

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Re: starting issues...is it my battery?

Re: starting issues...is it my battery?

If it clicks and you drop voltage down to 10 or 11, then that's a problem, as long as you are staying within .1 to .5 volts when you activate something, then that's just as good as the light lighting up on the test light. Run the tests, and think about why and what you are testing.
 

macr6

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Re: starting issues...is it my battery?

Re: starting issues...is it my battery?

If it clicks and you drop voltage down to 10 or 11, then that's a problem, as long as you are staying within .1 to .5 volts when you activate something, then that's just as good as the light lighting up on the test light. Run the tests, and think about why and what you are testing.


Roger, will do.
 

bamadave

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Re: starting issues...is it my battery?

Re: starting issues...is it my battery?

A cheap test light is less than 10 bucks but a good one that you can use into you old years is 20 to 30 bucks. The light is a much quicker way to check the whole electrical system to check for voltage. With the meter, it's hard to hold the probes on the terminal and read the meter, all while you're on your back under the panel.
 
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Re: starting issues...is it my battery?

Re: starting issues...is it my battery?

Have you checked your 90 amp fuse on the starter? Or 50 amp up above. Try turning it over at the slave solenoid by jumping with remote starter...
 

thumpar

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Re: starting issues...is it my battery?

Re: starting issues...is it my battery?

A cheap test light is less than 10 bucks but a good one that you can use into you old years is 20 to 30 bucks. The light is a much quicker way to check the whole electrical system to check for voltage. With the meter, it's hard to hold the probes on the terminal and read the meter, all while you're on your back under the panel.
Only problem with a test light is you don't get a reading. All you know is that there is power. When it comes to truly testing wiring you will need a meter.
 

macr6

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UPDATE NEED MORE HELP Re: starting issues...is it my battery?

UPDATE NEED MORE HELP Re: starting issues...is it my battery?

Okay Don, I followed your instructions from the point where I hear a click. Meaning the engine compartment. Everything check out. I didn't have any issues. Problem is I still didn't get it to start. Just getting a click still.

I am so frustrated I can't think straight. The boat worked, I pulled it out of the water, brought it home and pulled the carb. Put the carb back on and now it wont start.

The battery shows 12.55 volts.
The hot wire to the starter shows 12 volts when grounded.
The hot wire (A) and the black wire (D) show me voltage.
The hot wire (A) and the yellow and orange wire (B) show voltage when I try to crank it.

I used a volt meter since I didn't have a light. I followed your instructions and it all seems to be fine. I guess I need to look at the shift interupt switch? I am at a loss here. I need to take a small break to cool off and relook things over.
 

macr6

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Re: SOLVED....starting issues...is it my battery?

Okay. the one thing I didn't do was tap the starter. I guess this either disengages that start gear or loosens it up to let it engage?

Anyways that worked.

Not sure why this is a brand new starter. Is something that be a problem down the road in the near future?
 

Don S

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Re: SOLVED....starting issues...is it my battery?

Even brand new starter can be defective. If it's hanging like that, then you need to replace it. Is it a new OEM, or an aftermarket. I have found some aftermarket starters that sometimes need shims.

I followed your instructions and it all seems to be fine. I guess I need to look at the shift interupt switch?

The shift interrupt switch has absolutely nothing to do with the starting system. IF you was referring to the neutral safety switch, that was checked early in the testing. If you can hear a click of any kind, the neutral safety switch is not the problem.
 

macr6

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Re: SOLVED....starting issues...is it my battery?

Even brand new starter can be defective. If it's hanging like that, then you need to replace it. Is it a new OEM, or an aftermarket. I have found some aftermarket starters that sometimes need shims.



The shift interrupt switch has absolutely nothing to do with the starting system. IF you was referring to the neutral safety switch, that was checked early in the testing. If you can hear a click of any kind, the neutral safety switch is not the problem.

The neutral safety switch was what I was talking about. Sorry I mispoke.

The starter is aftermarket. This is the first time it has done that. I just checked the timing on the motor and it was good but found out that the rpms were running at 1200 and the manual says that it should be at 700rpms. The SB that I read on the run-on issue says this could be a cause of run-on. Set the idle speed to about 730rpms.

Thanks for the help Don, once again you saved me some money and some sanity. I think the sanity is worth more though :)
 

Don S

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Re: SOLVED....starting issues...is it my battery?

You need to get the idle down to 650 to 700 rpm. All has to be right, timing, carb idle mixture, etc. for it to idle right and shut off like it should.
1200 is to fast for even the drive to be put into gear. That can damage the shift dogs and gears big time.
Get it right before you ever think about heading to the water again, the drive and engine you save may be your own.
 

macr6

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Re: SOLVED....starting issues...is it my battery?

Will do thanks for the help.
 
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