1971 Evinrude will not shift

[RICKWV]

The boat runs great but will not go out of forward. I think I did something to it will I changed the impeller. I had to take the cover off that held the what I quess is the shifter solenoids down because the wire was holding the lower unit from coming down all the way. When I put it back together and started the motor it was in forward I have taken it back off three times trying to fix the problem. I have the manual trying to trouble shoot it but no Luck. Do the solenoids go in with the wires lined up the same way? The manual talks about a fuse were is it? I found one very small looked oK. Any help would be great. I took the boat out in the water yesterday runs fine just hard to start it in forward because it take off you know what I mean. Thanks,

 

[bigpoppakdog]

Re: 1971 Evinrude will not shift

you don't mess with the wires in the lower unit. You need to unhook the two shift wires up by the motor, then tape them with electrical wire and then unroll about 3 feet of tape and do a hockey twist wrap. Once you pull the lower unit off you will then unhook the wires from the end of the tape so you can work on the lower unit. Once your done you retape the end of the wire back on and then you can pull it up through the hole. Your going to have to wait for the experts concerning taking the solenoid.

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: 1971 Evinrude will not shift

Hydro Electric Shift)
(J. Reeves)

The shifting setup of the lower unit is what's called a "Hydro Electric Shift", which is quite complex consisting of voltage being applied to solenoids in the lower unit which in turn change oil passages via a oil pump that supplies various pressure on a spring loaded shifter dog. The wires leading to the lower unit (at the powerhead) are "Green" and "Blue". The engine must be running or cranking over in order to shift out of forward gear.

You CAN NOT use HI VIS lube in that lower unit. You MUST USE what OMC calls "Premium Blend" lube, commonly called "Type C". (A thinner lube)

In neutral, you need 12v to the "Green" wire.
In reverse, you need 12v to both wires, the "Green" one and the "Blue" one.
In forward, there should be no voltage to either wire. (The spring loaded shifter dog forces the unit into forward gear)

To check the lower unit for proper shifting to make sure you have no trouble there, remove the spark plugs to avoid problems and to allow a higher cranking speed.

This next step eliminates the actual shift switch in case problems may exist there.... Disconnect the blue & green wires at the knife connectors (the rubber insulated boots) leading to the lower unit at the powerhead, then using jumpers, take voltage direct from the starter solenoid to apply voltage to the "Green" wire for neutral, then both wires 'Green" & "Blue" for reverse (Remember the engine must be cranking over in order to shift).
With no voltage applied, the unit should be in forward. No need for a ground jumper... the lower unit's already grounded. You may crank the engine with the key switch or by energizing the starter solenoid with a jumper wire.

 

[oldrudedude]

Re: 1971 Evinrude will not shift

You must use type "C" lube in that lower unit. If you use anything else it will probably not shift out of forward.

 

[billbobagns]

Re: 1971 Evinrude will not shift

Are parts still avalible such as the switch and the lock-out slider inside the Evinrude controle?

 

[R.Johnson]

Re: 1971 Evinrude will not shift

I aleays have to chuckle about what oil in a hydro- electric. I used Hy-Vis, and then HPF in my 72, 125. I sold it 2 years ago, and still shifting just fine. That's a long time on the wrong oil.

 

[F_R]

Re: 1971 Evinrude will not shift

Are parts still avalible such as the switch and the lock-out slider inside the Evinrude controle?

The switches are getting hard to find and extremely expensive.

 

[billbobagns]

DIY replacement for buttons on Electric or Hydro Electric Shift

DIY replacement for buttons on Electric or Hydro Electric Shift

It looked like I would not be able to revive my push button on my hydro-electric shift so I decided to design an alternative.

I decided on sealed 12v relays to latch into position for F and R. I knew that if the throttle position was above a certain position that the push buttons would need to lock out. I've decided I will find a good location, either inside the control box, or under the engine cowl for such a switch. I have not yet determined the best location.

I also decided that if at low throttle, if in N and I push R or F, the trann should shift and latch. I thought however, that if I am in F and push R, the trann should go to R, but return to F when I release the button. It seems this might be handy when idleing into a doc. Does that sound like a good feature? Remember, if you go to N then R it will latch in R, but if you go from F to R, it will only stay as long as you hold the button.

This circuit will require you to locate buttons, decide on indicator lights (or not) and find a suitable location for a throttle limit switch. I have not yet tested the circuit, but on the drawing board, it looks right.

If anyone tries this, I hope they will let me know how it works out.

Bill Johnson

Here is the diagram. That is all I have so far;

http://www.billjohnson.net/automotive/Boat_Motor/Electric_Shift.JPG

Note output's are availible for the Electric Shift as well as Hydro Electric.

 

[billbobagns]

Re: 1971 Evinrude will not shift

I aleays have to chuckle about what oil in a hydro- electric. I used Hy-Vis, and then HPF in my 72, 125. I sold it 2 years ago, and still shifting just fine. That's a long time on the wrong oil.

I don't understand the requirement for low Vis. I have a 72 50HP. Just pulled the lower unit down last night. The screen is tight weave, but gosh, moving that little piston 1/2 inch can't take much volume of fluid. Seems like hi vis would work fine. For sure, it couldn't do any damage that I can see.

I can see that if the case had been empty (full of air) and you filled with high vis, the screen might hold a bubble of air preventing you from filling the case completely as we all know you should do. But after the input shaft turns a few turns, that bubble would get pumped out and float to the top of the chamber to be pushed out the next time you top off grease.

If anyone understands clearly why low vis or type C is called for here, please post.

Bill Johnson

 

[R.Johnson]

Re: 1971 Evinrude will not shift

That engine has the same disign gears', and bearing's as the mechanical shift, that's where you want the best lube. The hydro pump merely push's the dog out of engagement. If you were running the engine in very cold water, it might make shifting sluggish with the heavy oil, I never did that. I noticed no difference in shifting at all with the heavy oil, I never had gearcase problems with this engine. Changed lube every season, and never allowed water leakage. That engine was a l25 Johnson on a 15.5 ft. checkmate with jackplate, and 24" Raker prop. It seldom seen mild running.

 

[jay_merrill]

Re: 1971 Evinrude will not shift

Put the right oil in it - the stuff doesn't cost that much.

 

[R.Johnson]

Re: 1971 Evinrude will not shift

That's the discussion! Use the best possible oil.