Johnson 28hp choke not working

idesign

Seaman
Joined
Jul 12, 2008
Messages
60
Guys i have Johnson 28hp outboard model #RX-11A.it was running excellent when i bought it few month ago.It was starting in first try.Used only couple times and it was running great.Here is what happened before the problem started.Last time i launched boat and started and it was running great.then after i had new gas fill and new oil the problem started.it started moving very slow.Then after some time we stopped the outboard to fish.and and when tried to start it didn't start.I tried choking but was not able to choke and the choke was not working.
Now it is not starting.The engine is cranking but it is not starting.I see the choke is not going all the way in.I think this is the problem.Can some1 tell me what could be the problem.I have attached the pic.The choke goes only little inside.Before it was going all the way in.

outboardey7.jpg


Please help me out with this problem.Thank you.
 

tashasdaddy

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
Nov 11, 2005
Messages
51,019
Re: Johnson 28hp choke not working

the marked lever is the manual choke lever, it should have 3 postions, push all the way in, is completely off, one notch out, is the automatic feature, that you activate the solenoid, from the control, all the way out, is the manual choke and it closes the choke butterflies. put in middle postion, key in on postion, activate choke, you should see the lever move, and here the solenoid clik. if it does not click, you either have a wiring problem, or bad solenoid, or switch.
 

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F_R

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jul 7, 2006
Messages
28,226
Re: Johnson 28hp choke not working

If you cannot push the manual lever in, there obviously has to be something obstructing it as you suggest. I can't see it in the picture, but it should be obvious when doing an on-site inspection.

BTW, tshasdaddy's advice is good except wrong motor. This one does not have an automatic feature. The manual lever is either in for choke off or out for choke on. The electric solenoid is able to override the choke off.
 

idesign

Seaman
Joined
Jul 12, 2008
Messages
60
Re: Johnson 28hp choke not working

the marked lever is the manual choke lever, it should have 3 postions, push all the way in, is completely off, one notch out, is the automatic feature, that you activate the solenoid, from the control, all the way out, is the manual choke and it closes the choke butterflies. put in middle postion, key in on postion, activate choke, you should see the lever move, and here the solenoid clik. if it does not click, you either have a wiring problem, or bad solenoid, or switch.

thx for reply buddy.
I have tried as u stated but no luck.i tired all different way. eg,by shifting gear to forward/reverse ,accelerate to fast/slow but still that choke is not going all the way in. the solenoid if i press by hand it goes it,BTW,when i turn key on it goes in by itself.let me know if you have more suggestion i can try.BTW,where is carburetor.i will try cleaning that.let me know.pls help me.thank you
 

samo_ott

Vice Admiral
Joined
Jun 18, 2006
Messages
5,125
Re: Johnson 28hp choke not working

The carb is where the choke is. If you don't know where it is you really need to get and read a manual on this. It sounds like there is an obstruction. Look around it carefully. This might not be you non starting issue though as usually it will still start with the choke partially out/on.
 

F_R

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jul 7, 2006
Messages
28,226
Re: Johnson 28hp choke not working

The carb is where the choke is. If you don't know where it is you really need to get and read a manual on this. It sounds like there is an obstruction. Look around it carefully. This might not be you non starting issue though as usually it will still start with the choke partially out/on.

Amen. If he doesn't know where the carburetor is, he shouldn't be working on it. Period.
 

idesign

Seaman
Joined
Jul 12, 2008
Messages
60
Re: Johnson 28hp choke not working

I put new gas and oil and took to test on lake.The outboard started.When the choke is on the motor is running but as soon as i put choke back in the motor stops after few second.remember the choke is still not going all the way in.can some1 tell me what could be the problem.thank you

also when motor is running and i increase the lever to fast i don't see any speed increase in the motor.can some1 tell me what could be the problem.
pls let me know and thx for help
 

samo_ott

Vice Admiral
Joined
Jun 18, 2006
Messages
5,125
Re: Johnson 28hp choke not working

If you have to run with the choke on then the carb is dirty/plugged and it is not getting fuel properly. And the same if you have no high speed. If you have tried adjusting the mixtures screw(s) and had no luck, then remove the carb and clean it. This is assuming you have 2 good sparks and compression.
 

idesign

Seaman
Joined
Jul 12, 2008
Messages
60
Re: Johnson 28hp choke not working

The carb is where the choke is. If you don't know where it is you really need to get and read a manual on this. It sounds like there is an obstruction. Look around it carefully. This might not be you non starting issue though as usually it will still start with the choke partially out/on.

Can u tell me where i can get manual from.thx.i have some people reply on other forums and most of them is saying to clean carb.let me know.thx
 

samo_ott

Vice Admiral
Joined
Jun 18, 2006
Messages
5,125
Re: Johnson 28hp choke not working

iBoats sells manuals. Click on the link at the top of this page.
 

jay_merrill

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Dec 5, 2007
Messages
5,653
Re: Johnson 28hp choke not working

You mentioned that the electric choke activates as soon as you turn the key on. That suggests to me that you have a defective choke switch.

Since your choke switch is probably in a small panel next to your ignition switch, in the dash of your boat, look at the back side of it to see if you can get at the wire terminals. If not, you may have to remove the panel and pull it out of the dash a bit, so that the terminals are exposed. Once you gain access to the terminals, remove one of the wires from the choke switch.

At this point, the circuit to the electric choke solenoid will have been interrupted and it should not work. Make sure that your manual choke lever is in the open position, and turn your key to the on position again, to confirm that the solenoid has not activated. If this is the case, I would say that you need a new choke switch.

As to whether or not this is the complete problem, I can't say. As was mentioned, even with the choke closed, a motor should start when cold and will often start even when warm. In either case. a closed choke will probably make it quit eventually, but you usually see some signs of "life." You may have a dirty carb and that can be true even if the motor was running fine. All it takes is for a bit of junk from the tank to end up in one or both of the needle valves and you have problems.

Once you get your manual, read through it from start to finish without worrying too much about understanding everything that is there. You can then go to the sections on the choke system and carburetor to study them. If you decide to do a carburetor rebuild, I suggest that you find a helper who has some familiarity with outboard motors or other 2-stroke motors. Short of that, just find someone with good mechanical apptitude to assist you. I think you can learn how to fix your motor in time, but right now, it sounds like you're not ready to "fly solo."

One thing that I would do, however, before getting into anything beyond checking the choke switch, is to do a "spark check." It is very easy to do and serves to confirm that you have ignition to the park plugs. Remove both spark plugs and place one of them back in the spark plug boot for its respective cylinder. Ground that plug to the powerhead with a wire that has alligator clips on the end, or by stripping the ends of a piece of wire, so that you can wrap one end around the outer base of the plug and attach the other end to a suitable ground on the motor. Now engage the starter with the key switch - make sure no one is touching any part of the spark plug lead (either one) or the spark plug when you do this. If you get a nice "fat" spark, you know that cylinder's ignition system is functioning.

Now repeat this exercise on the other cylinder. If you again see spark, you know both cylinders are getting spark. While you motor could be out of time for some reason, this probably isn't the case, just because of the way the motor is set up (more on that at another time, if you wish). This leads to the conclusion that you have a fuel problem, which will most likely be either your carburetor or your fuel pump.

On the other hand, if one of the cylinders does not show spark, the problem may be confined to the ignition system. Fixing most of it is also an item for a later discussion, but there is one simple thing you can check - the spark plug on the offending cylinder. If one shows no sign of spark, take the one that did, and put it in the spark plug boot for the cylinder that didn't work. If you now see spark, the other plug is most likely bad. If there is still no spark, chances are that you have a problem in that cylinder's ignition system prior to the plug.

BTW - when you put the spark plugs back in, be sure not to crossthread them and don't over-tighten them! See your manual - maximum torque when doing so is only 17-1/2 to 20-1/2 foot pounds!

The good news is that your Johnson 28hp (of the early sixties series, not the later version) is a very simple engine. You don't need a lot of exotic tools and meters to troubleshoot and fix it. Take things lsow and get advice and you will be fine.

Welcome to iboats!
 

idesign

Seaman
Joined
Jul 12, 2008
Messages
60
Re: Johnson 28hp choke not working

outboardey7.jpg


Can some1 tell if yellow shinning part u see next to choke is carburetor.some1 replied that carburetor is above/near choke.let me know.thank you



Sorry for dumb question but i am totally new to outboards.I wana try fixing my self as i am low in finance.if not i will somehow get it fixed by mechanic.thx for your help guys.
 

crash Jason

Cadet
Joined
Jul 2, 2008
Messages
17
Re: Johnson 28hp choke not working

the choke lever is attached to the side of the carb. the white plastic piece is covering the carb throat and the electric choke solenoid is attached to the float bowl. you'll have to unbolt the starter to get the carb off but before you rebuild it get a manual. there are lots of small parts. I just bought an original service manual for my 1964 evinrude 28 hp for 20 bucks on ebay. It only took about 4 days to get to my house. what year is your motor? there is another manual just like mine on for $40 on ebay.
 

jay_merrill

Vice Admiral
Joined
Dec 5, 2007
Messages
5,653
Re: Johnson 28hp choke not working

The yellow part that you are refering to is a cover piece that serves to provide somewhat of a screen to keep junk out of the carb throat. It also provides a place to put an adjustment knob for your high speed needle valve, which is missing on your motor. There should be a black knob on the top, right side of that plastic piece, with a wire link going down to the tab on the needle valve at the bottom of your carburetor. Additionally, the knob for the low speed jet (the thing sticking out of the top, front of the carb) is missing.

If you look inside of the screen on that plastic piece, you will be looking into the throat of the carb. Once you do that, you will see a brass plate which is round and is the diameter of the bore of the carb throat. Once you get oriented, actuate the manual choke lever and you will see that plate rotate and close the throat of the carb. The plate being discussed is sometimes called a "butterfly." Do not confuse this plate with another one located behind, deeper in the carb. The second one is the throttle plate.

While I don't want to sound like I am giving you a hard time, it is obvious to all of us that you have pretty much no experience in working on motors of any type. It is important to have some fundamental knowlege of the basic parts of a two stroke motor in order for you work on it. Without that experience, much of what is said here, or is written in a manual is going to seem like a foreign language to you. I think you can eventually figure it all out but I strongly recommend what I said before - go find a friend with some background in repairing small engines. Doing so will make you task considerably easier.
 
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