Trailer wobbler rollers...ribbed or smooth

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Glasplyer

Cadet
Joined
Sep 30, 2008
Messages
21
Have an old calkins trailer whose wobbler rollers have corroded so bad they do not turn. They are 5 in on a 3/4 shaft...two questions: 1) don't know how to remove the shafts. They are so corroded can't get a wrench on them or knock the pins? out to unbolt the shaft. so am considering 2) replacing the smooth rollers with ribbed rollers (that seem to be more available)...question is...is that a problem?

The shaft lengths are about 22-24" with the 5 in wobbler on each end. Can't seem to find shafts of that size with the trailer venders so am considering just buying 3/4 in steel shafts of that length and putting pressure caps? on the ends (seems also to be the most recent method for securing wobbler rollers). Also need to weld the shaft as shown in the picture

Can anyone help with this thinking? Are there alternatives and would it be ok to replace smooth wobbler rollers with ribbed ones?

Sorry to be so lengthy in such a simple subject...but am a newbie and look to the expertise of the many boaters on this forum.

Austin
 

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G

Glasplyer

Cadet
Joined
Sep 30, 2008
Messages
21
Re: Trailer wobbler rollers...ribbed or smooth

Thanks for the prompt response. This trailer is a 1976 Calkins so could very well be the wobbler roller set up is home made. Sure doesn't make it easy for replacement. Eastmarine does have wobbler roller ribbed kits...four roller and all the other 'stuff' (except the shaft)...looks like i'll have to manufacture the shaft!

Thanks loads for your help!

Austin
 
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reelfishin

Captain
Joined
Mar 19, 2007
Messages
3,050
Re: Trailer wobbler rollers...ribbed or smooth

You may be limited to a particular style roller on that set up.
You can make your own shafts and yes, pressure caps will work but you will need to drill and cotterpin the inner stops.
There are two basic styles of wobble rollers, those with plastic bushings and those with a narrow steel hub or washer.
Most smooth rollers I've seen have steel hubs, they are molded around a large thin, steel washer and rotate directly on a steel shaft. These type should never be used on aluminum shafts as they will sooner or later cut right through.

The bushing style rollers, usually ribbed, use what is usually about 1 1/2" wide bushing to rotate on. These tend to rust to steel shafts if not kept well lubed. Especially when used in saltwater. The steel washer style are the true "Wobble" rollers as they have the most overall wobble action. Those with bushings only wobble as much as their bushing allows simple due to play at the shaft.

Most steel washer style rollers have roll pins or cotter pins holding them in place. Most bushing style rollers use D shaped hog rings and large washers to retain each roller on an aluminum shaft.

If your planning to make your own shafts, then the option is yours as to which type of roller to use. The most cost efficient rollers are those with the ribbed surface and PVC hubs. Those will require a wider are to ride on and won't wobble as much as those with the steel hubs.
Most smooth rollers tend to be closer to 4" in diameter and most ribbed rollers seem to be closer to 5".

What it amounts to is that once you decide to make your own shafts, the rest is up to you. Just build it to fit what works at that point. You also may not have to stick with that width shaft, depending on the boat's hull, you may find changing the length of the shaft may even work out better.
I do find that the closer together or lower on the hull the inner rollers ride, the easier it is to get the boat centered on the trailer and the less likely the keel can come in contact with any cross members.
 
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