71 Johnson 9.5 - not even trying

[joho5]

ok, now that I have my spark plug situation and ignition problem taken care of. (long story short, I replaced every ignition component because I wasnt getting spark on 1 cylinder at all and I replaced it all when I had it taken apart.

Now with it all back together, the engine wont even try to start. I have a good blue spark on my plugs now. I didnt touch my carb at all, so that shouldnt be a problem. I did rebuild it though about 2 months ago but it has ran fine since then.

what should I check, fuel pump? I mean it wont even spudder...just wears my arm out with no sign.

it has to be something small.

 

[JB]

Re: 71 Johnson 9.5 - not even trying

Go to the Engine FAQs Forum and do "Outboard won't start".

Let us know what you find.

 

[lbentz]

Re: 71 Johnson 9.5 - not even trying

I would just check and make sure that the front spark plug lead is going to the top cylinder and the rear is going to number 2 cylinder.

Check the plugs and see if they're even getting fuel on them too.

 

[joho5]

Re: 71 Johnson 9.5 - not even trying

they arent...they come out dry. What would that be a cause of?

the carbeurator has worked like a champ since I rebuilt it. Even when I sprayed a little carb / choke cleaner in the throat...nothing.

they fuel isnt getting pushed through where it is supposed to.

 

[Tim Frank]

Re: 71 Johnson 9.5 - not even trying

You have posted a lot of info on this motor and it is a bit hard to follow the sequence of events.
Could you pls summarise what you have done since the last time it did run?

 

[ezeke]

Re: 71 Johnson 9.5 - not even trying

You might want to summarize your starting procedure as well.

Take the drain plug out of the float bowl and squeeze your primer bulb to be sure that fuel is getting to the bowl.

Make sure that your tank is not more than 30" below the fuel pump.

 

[joho5]

Re: 71 Johnson 9.5 - not even trying

I purchased the motor used and not knowing anything about it, I changed the impeller, lower unit seals, and rebuilt the carb.

It would start fine and idle great with only about 2 pulls. I then took it out on the lake and it would run, but had not power, kinda sluggish. Every once in a while it would kick on and take off and run nicely. That was usually short lived.

I then found that only 1 cylinder was getting spark (and I am assuming the other would just every once in a while). I then was going to just replace all the ignition components while I had the flywheel off. I replaced everything that contributes to getting a spark. (coils, condensers, contacts, points, and spark plug wires).

In the meantime, I found out that one of the spark plug holes had been stripped in the past and an insert had been inserted to compensate. This insert was not worn out and the spark plug wasnt able to seat tightly. I then ordered a new cylinder head and gasket and installed that with no problems.

So now I have new ignition, rebuilt carb, all new seals, new impeller, rebuilt fuel pump, and new fuel lines. (i think thats it)

installed most of this stuff with no problems. Now I put it all back together and it wont start. I can pump the bulb and hear gas going through the lines and it will get tight and stay tight. It never will attempt to start though.

thats the summary of this motor. This is the first time out of all the time I have had the motor that it wouldnt start.

I am thinking that it has something to do with a fuel line possibly or fuel pump?

 

[joho5]

Re: 71 Johnson 9.5 - not even trying

You might want to summarize your starting procedure as well.

Take the drain plug out of the float bowl and squeeze your primer bulb to be sure that fuel is getting to the bowl.

Make sure that your tank is not more than 30" below the fuel pump.

can you take the drain plug out of the carb without pulling the carb?

I thought it was a flathead screw that releases that thing.

 

[ezeke]

Re: 71 Johnson 9.5 - not even trying

It should be a 7/16 slotted screw. Put a rag under it to catch anything that spills out.

 

[joho5]

Re: 71 Johnson 9.5 - not even trying

if there is in fact gas in the bowl, what would cause it to not distribute the gas to the spark plugs?

thanks for the picture...I will empty the bowl and see what it holds.

thanks

 

[ezeke]

Re: 71 Johnson 9.5 - not even trying

The gas in the bowl is the reservoir of fuel provided by the primer bulb and the fuel pump. When the bowl fills, the float rises and lifts the needle to close the valve and keep any more fuel from entering until it is needed.

The action of the pistons pulls the fuel from there by vacuum. If the reeds are good and there are no air leaks, it's virtually foolproof.

The fuel/air mix is not rich enough for a cold start, so the choke must be used to block the air and make a mixture that contains extra fuel for the cold start.

 

[Tim Frank]

Re: 71 Johnson 9.5 - not even trying

Summary is that you rebuilt the carburetor and the engine then revealed ignition symptoms....you have replaced virtually the entire ignition system. If you have not done anything invasive to the carbs, I would be looking at ignition.

But that is a simple check that Ezeke suggests and if you also make sure that the choke plate is closing the carb throat properly, and try spraying a shot of fuel-oil mixture directly into the carb throat to see if it fires, that would rule out most fuel issues.

 

[Xcusme]

Re: 71 Johnson 9.5 - not even trying

When you replaced the magneto parts, did you completely strip off old parts and then replace everything?

Remove flywheel and post an overhead picture of your ignition system.

 

[joho5]

Re: 71 Johnson 9.5 - not even trying

I took the armature plate off and replaced everything. It has a blue spark now. I can pull the rope and have it grounded up against something metal and see a good strong spark.

the plugs dont get wet at all when pulling the rope though.

I did replace the fuel lines and they seem tight...does any of you know the correct size of fuel lines for this motor?

from the input to the fuel pump its larger, and then from the output of the fuel pump to the carb, its smaller. Could just a very small bit of air somewhere cause the motor to not even try to start?

 

[ezeke]

Re: 71 Johnson 9.5 - not even trying

If the reservoir is full of fuel, the pistons can and will pull the fuel through the carburetors into the engine provided the reeds are good. If the gaskets are new on the carburetor, there should be no air leak on that side.

The hose from the fuel pump to the carburetor is quite small compared to the line leading to the fuel pump.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: 71 Johnson 9.5 - not even trying

Check to make sure that the choke is closed when you crank the engine.

Remove that 7/16" slotted hex head bolt at the bottom front portion of the carburetor float chamber. If no fuel exists at that point, I would assume that the float is stuck shut.

If fuel does flow out of that hole as it should, then I would suspect that either the high speed jet is clogged (fuel flows theu that jet before it can flow to any other fuel passageway) OR the carburetor is out of adjustment (see the following).

(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)
(J. Reeves)

Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

Note 1: As a final double check setting of the slow speed valve(s), if the engine has more than one carburetor, do not attempt to gradually adjust all of the valves/carburetors at the same time. Do one at a time until you hit the above response (die out or spit back), then go on to the next valve/carburetor. It may be necessary to back out "all" of the slow speed adjustable needle valves 1/8 turn before doing this final adjustment due to the fact that one of the valves might be initially set ever so slightly lean.

Note 2: If the engine should be a three (3) cylinder engine with three (3) carburetors, start the adjustment sequence with the center carburetor.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

When time permits, visit my eBay store at: http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store

 

[joho5]

Re: 71 Johnson 9.5 - not even trying

solved - the float was stuck. I think it was set correctly. It wouldnt seat even...i bent it to correct setting.

motor starts and idles fine now in a barrel. I will test it on the lake tomororw.