'65 6 HP Water Pump Question

whipstrut

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Followed the water pump removal directions on another thread, but about the powerhead seal (assembly?), does it remain in the exhaust housing when the driveshaft/lower unit is removed? Will replacing the locking pin, and lubing the splines be enough for reassembly? Should I purchase and install a new set of seals? Also, does this engine use a thermostat? I'm using sec. 8-6 in the Seloc manual for reference, and a thermostat isn't mentioned. Any further guidance from you wizards would surely be appreciated.
 

ezeke

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Re: '65 6 HP Water Pump Question

I have a 1965 6HP Johnson. It requires no manipulation at the powerhead and has no locking pin at the top like some models in other years. You may want to completely upgrade the waterpump to the more modern one PN 763758 if it still has the original one.

The thermostat has superseded to part number 5005440 or you can use the Mercury MM75692 for about half the price.
 

freddyray21

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Re: '65 6 HP Water Pump Question

the seal is on the top of the driveshaft if it's the one I think you are talking about. It will fall out when you pull the lower so take it off now and keep the pieces in the same orientation so you put them back right. You may wish to change the seal now. It does have a thermostat. It is located at the top of the powerhead on the cylinder head end. I think it is three bolts that hold it on. The water test on the stove will tell you if it's working. Don't leave it out as it is required for proper heat range to let the motor run right.
 

F_R

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Re: '65 6 HP Water Pump Question

The 1965 models were changed from prior ones. Starting in 1965 you no longer have to pull the powerheqd to remove the lower unit because there is a shift rod connector down by the pump.

OK, now, about the seal at the top of the drive shaft: Starting in 1965 it stays in place when you remove the lower unit. That is accomplished by a ledge below the seal. The shaft must to be turned till the pin in the shaft will go down through a slot in that ledge. If you just force it off without turning it for alignment, it will shear off the ends of the pin. Likewise, once the lower unit is removed, you should avoid turning the flywheel till the lower unit is back on. That is so that the splines in the crankshaft will stay aligned with the slot in the ledge. Also likewise, once the lower unit is removed, notice which direction the pin is pointing so you can orient it for re-installation.

IF you do all this and observe the precautions, the seal will have stayed in place and there will be no more work to do in that area. If you didn't do it right, well......
 

jay_merrill

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Re: '65 6 HP Water Pump Question

I am offering comment purely from memory, but that memory coincides with F_R's comments. I also don't think you even can change the seal without pulling the powerhead. This is becase, as F_R said, the assembly (seal, spring, gasket, etc.) sits in a trough with a ledge on the bottom. It can't be removed from below, and is held in place from above by the base of the powerhead.
 

whipstrut

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Re: '65 6 HP Water Pump Question

Thanks to all of you for the guidance, but F R's explanation pretty much nails it about the configuration of my outboard. I haven't moved the flywheel, so I hope reassembly is easy as well. I'm going to buy a roll pin tomorrow to replace the one I removed from the driveshaft, as well as replace the thermostat and then give it a go. Found that the Seloc manual is OK, but not that easy to follow.
 

whipstrut

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Re: '65 6 HP Water Pump Question

Just wanted to take a minute to Thank everyone for helping me out with my Evinrude 6. It's all back together now and works perfectly (again). Not quite as exciting as hearing a V-12 Allison run, but satisfying all the same.
 
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