1994 60hp Johnson low comp. and more

[tashasdaddy]

Re: 1994 60hp Johnson low comp. and more

no tilt pin, they use the same base, for both with and without tnt.

 

[HybridMX6]

Re: 1994 60hp Johnson low comp. and more

Ok, it just looked like there had been one in it at some point, it's got a little "ring" around one of the holes as if something had been in it, but was now missing. I didn't think there would be a need for one on a TnT motor, but I have no experience to say otherwise, so thought I'd ask.

 

[Silvertip]

Re: 1994 60hp Johnson low comp. and more

You don't have to replace or move the existing VRO pump just because the oil side of the pump has been disabled. The fuel side will work just fine. That pump belongs where it is. The disconnected plug you see is probably from the oil side of the pump and served as the warning system. The overheat warning should still function as it's separate from the oil warning. I would also not run the engine very long or very hard until I was sure the #1 carb was clean and not the cause for any damage to that cylinder. Many people blame the VRO when they lose a cylinder when in fact it is a lean carb that caused the damage. Lean fuel mixture means the cylinder is not being lubricated properly.

 

[HybridMX6]

Re: 1994 60hp Johnson low comp. and more

I don't plan to replace the pump, just move it so it's better situated. My brother in law still has my camera, but once I get it back I will take a pic of it so you can see what I mean by the fuel line. It just looks like it's bent a little too much for my liking and could cause a restriction in flow, causing problems.
The motor won't be running any more until I rebuild the carbs, since I just removed them yesterday.

 

[HybridMX6]

Re: 1994 60hp Johnson low comp. and more

Ok, so I managed to get my camera back today from my brother in law and take some pics. The first two are of how my fuel pump is now and the bend in the line that I don't like.
I just don't like the way the fuel pump is non-chalantly stuck in there, and the kink in the hose in the 2nd pic bothers me. It makes me worry that I may run it lean due to fuel starvation due to that kink, and I don't want to have to fix this thing again once I figure out what is wrong with it now.




This one is the plug that goes to nothing. I'm assuming at this point that it was for the VRO sensors, warnings, whatever you want to call them. Can someone please verify what this plug is supposed to go to? If it's the VRO, that's fine.


This one above is just 2 wires that are hanging around on the exhaust/starter side of the engine. The black one is a ground that is bolted to one of the bolts on the exhaust cover. That other one I have no idea where it is supposed to go. It disappears into the harness up by that empty plug, so I'm not sure where it ends up going.


These 3 wires go to the harness also shown in the pic on the controls. I have no clue what they are supposed to be for, all I know is they go nowhere right now, and they aren't for the TnT, b/c that harness is already connected and it works just fine.


This last one is coming out of the harness that the TnT plugs into also. The black plug in the back ground is the TnT harness, so what these others go to I have no clue either. As apparent from the electrical tape, someone has hacked this before, and then another person hacked it again. If they are useless that's fine, I just don't like seeing open wires hanging around like that.
If someone could please be kind enough to help me out with what these things are, or were supposed to go it, it will help me eliminate problem areas.

And the final problem. I tried and tried getting this thing into reverse. I tried turning the propshaft over while trying to get it in gear, tried turning the flywheel by hand while trying to get it in gear, nothing. So, I watched it as it shifted into forward, which was "clumsy" at best, and it shifts the lever under tha carbs down. So should I assume to get reverse it is supposed to go up? All it does right now is "appear" to pop into reverse on the controls, and the shifter on the motor seems to go back into reverse, but it's not in gear, and if the controls are disconnected it will pop right back into the neutral position. The shift rod sort of "torques" or "flexes" towards the front of the motor when it does this, but it doesn't move up or down, it's more of a front to back movement, which is why I say it appears to be flexing (or bowing) out. Can someone tell me any more about that or what it's supposed to do so I can get a better understanding? As well perhaps as what might be wrong with it?
Any and all help is greatly appreciated at this point, it seems I will need all the help I can get.

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: 1994 60hp Johnson low comp. and more

you have a private message.

 

[HybridMX6]

Re: 1994 60hp Johnson low comp. and more

Thanks for helping me out with the odd wires on the motor, but does anybody have any clue about why I can't get this thing in reverse? It sounds like something is binding and it's not letting it shift. I'm totally fine with pulling it off right now, since I have the carbs pulled off and the fuel pump as well, so it's not going to be started for at least a week from now, maybe longer.
Any thoughts would be appreciated. I'm gonna check the LU oil shortly, just to make sure it has some in it and isn't milky or any shavings in it.

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: 1994 60hp Johnson low comp. and more

see other post.

 

[HybridMX6]

Re: 1994 60hp Johnson low comp. and more

Well, found the reason for the low comp in the top cylinder. I pulled the head off today since my new head gasket is coming in tomorrow, so I figured best case at least I'd have a new gasket if I was just resealing it. Well, nope, it's not best case, it's really as expected. It's got some pretty nasty grooves along the side of the cylinder on that top one. The other 3 cylinders are fine, no grooves whatsoever. Take a look at the pics, they are clickable for full-size:





Also, have another problem that will have to be addressed whenever I get the powerhead off. Had a bolt snap off on me, it's the bottom right one (down by the pee hole).
And the final thing, this motor had no t-stat in it, just a spring. What the heck is the spring for, or is it something someone stuffed in there? I opened up the housing due to how much sand I had found in the lower unit when I pull it off, but someone's been in here messing with the t-stat, it's gone. Any thoughts on why someone stuck a spring in there?
So, at least my manual for this thing came in today so I can pull the powerhead off. I don't really know what I'm getting in to with this, but I may as well do it now. At the very least I will learn a lot.

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: 1994 60hp Johnson low comp. and more

the sand may have eaten the tstat. was the sand in the water jacket?

 

[HybridMX6]

Re: 1994 60hp Johnson low comp. and more

No, no sand at all. Don't know if it's passed through already or what, but there was no sand in there. I was thinking that too, but wasn't sure that was possible. Scary though. Rebuild kit, 3 pistons, rings, bearings, and powerhead gasket set, $400 + shipping. Fun stuff. I still have to get it off and see if it's even rebuildable. I'll have to find a marine repair shop and take the block to them, since I've heard not to use an auto machine shop for marine repairs.

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: 1994 60hp Johnson low comp. and more

If you have a good napa shop in your area, they usually do marine motors.

 

[HybridMX6]

Re: 1994 60hp Johnson low comp. and more

I have seveal around me, so I'll look into it.
Thanks

 

[HybridMX6]

Re: 1994 60hp Johnson low comp. and more

Ok, well, I finally got the powerhead off and broken down. I must say, that top cylinder has seen better days. Now I have multiple questions/comments. It appears as if someone has been inside this motor before. The top piston does not match the bottom two, it looks older and is slightly different on the bottom. See the pics of the comparison below.

Here is a closer look. This is one of the bottom two pistons:

And this is the top one, side view:

This is just a closer view of how bad the cylinder and piston were:

So, now my question is what all do I need to take to the machine shop? Obviously the block, but I'd assume also the crankshaft to have it checked out, and what about the rods, and the crankcase cover? Should I take that as well for any reason? Whenever I took an engine block to the auto machine shop, I always just took the block and crank.
Advice would be appreciated on what I need to take with me, I am planning on going on Thursday if I can find it.
Also, would anyone know if the bottom 2 pistons are OE ones or aftermarket, or just newer OE ones.
Oh, and out of curiosity, is there supposed to be a gasket between the crankcase cover and block? All I found between there was what looks like RTV.